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has anyone here put a van battery box on a superduty? if so was it hard and how does it look?
 

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NOt sure if you already did one or not but i looked into a van box and just built my own with angle iron on the frame rail under the passenger front door and ran my main cable back and grounded the other to the frame. I put the yellow top optimum in it and left the other optima up front pass side. the box is big enough for both under the truck so i plan on moving the other batt under truck into it also one of these days. Frees up tons of space under the hood and looks great on the frame rail though unless you trip and fall you wont ever know its there :haha
 

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NOt sure if you already did one or not but i looked into a van box and just built my own with angle iron on the frame rail under the passenger front door and ran my main cable back and grounded the other to the frame. I put the yellow top optimum in it and left the other optima up front pass side. the box is big enough for both under the truck so i plan on moving the other batt under truck into it also one of these days. Frees up tons of space under the hood and looks great on the frame rail though unless you trip and fall you wont ever know its there :haha
your running optima?? I have read where a lot of pepole say that our truck dont do well with optima, have you had any issues? or know what they speak of?
 

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Im not sure what problems others are having. I have heard something about that. I run one red top and one yellow top both are 5+ years old and still bump out 1100 CCA. I can leave my system on hitting hard while i work in the yard and still crank up the truck couple hours later with no problem. They say that optimas need to be charged with charger like once a year or something but i have yet to do that and mine work fine. One day i think i will get another yellow top because they are a deep cycle starting batt so you can run high amps off them and they will always crank. If anyone else has probs it would be nice to hear cause i always wondered if it was one or two with a prob or everyone that used them. hope this helps
 

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Yeah I have been wondering that myself, trying to see if someone else will chime in. What's the reasone on one red and one yellow? Do the yellow ones not fit under the hood? Maybe that's why pepole were having issues only running reds.?.
Thanks for the info I. Belive I like your idea and how it is set up. ThT will really free up some room for other bypass filters and such... :thumbsup
 

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I run the red cause it was in my mustang before the truck so i put it in, then had a yellow on sale one day and got it. soon as another yellow go on sale ill get it, as far as size my red an yellow are same size just yellow is deep cycle starting batt, you cant run that thing down its made for trucks with big systems that run alot of amps/subs. yeah take out those batts and the amount of room is rediculous, and batt box under truck fits neatly right under pass door frame rail where the Eseries has theirs
 

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oh ok thanks for the info...:thumbsup
 

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No worries. Hey did you get your truck running after you did the FICM programming. If so hows it run and tow with the new FICM
 

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It still had the same issue after I replaced the FICM with one tuned by ID, so I took it to ford with the stock FICM in it $250.00 later they tell me U0306, P0603. IDS showed incomplete data on the fuel management re-flashed and starts like a champ... sorta. retest the truck and found that the turbo builds 17psi max so they asked to approve another 195.00 for testing, they removed the EGR block off put a EGR valve in it and smoke tested the truck and wanted 1200.00 for replacing the y pipe. I declined, they replaced my block off and I ordered the parts from Wabash (got the link from one of the guy's here) like $200.00 less than what my dealer wanted. and I had surgery before the parts got here so it is still siting in the driveway and a box of parts on the shelf. As soon as I can stand on my foot I will be pulling the turbo and replacing the y pipe.
 

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Thats bummer bro, i see the cast there. Yeah they had a guy on here that has the ypipe for like 50$ shipped or something. I was going to get it but really dont feel like taking ypipe out. Putting that egr cooler block off in there was hard enough, it leaks a little there but not enough to loose boost i guess. I actually just did the ccv mod and cleaned my intercooler and gained 1psi. Hope you get it up and going. Let us know how the FICM goes, im bout to buy one for $300 so i can send it off to get it flashed by ID.
 

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Thanks for idea......I will finish the project next week. I got interrupted with holidays and snow. This is what I have so far........



 
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im interested in hearing more about the E series battery boxes...how much were they...
how many parts and other brackets etc did you have to order ??
 

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Definately don't get the boxes from the dealer. They will go $130+ each and that doesn't include all the components or hardware. I got two boxes with covers, safety cables and battery holdowns for $50 shipped. I ordered the mounting hardware from the dealer only because I didn't know what exactly it used. Now that I know I could have sourced it from a hardware store too. Wouldn't have cost $100 for four nutted brackets, eight mounting bolts, four bolts for the safety cable and four flanged nuts. You can see all that in the pics. I still need to put together some 0/0 cable, quick disconnects, battery connectors, redo alt cable and a couple of relay boxes. I post more pics when it is done. So far it fits very nicely and will give me a lot of room under the hood for other things.

edit......found the boxes on ebay
 

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Its looking excellent. I finally finished all mine right, basically the only thing i ran into is that i ran the smaller positive wire thats on driver side back to my batteries and put it on the starter battery and it seemed to not start well. Im guessing that wire goes to the FICM or glow plugs, not sure. As long as you run back the cables an wires from the front to the batteries underneath the same as they came stock then you will be ok, now it starts easy with no problem. Also like you said, i upgraded all the wires, (2 wires, 2 cables) and ran them with welding cables instead.
 

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You guys don't go into deep water, do you? Like 18" to 24".

The other thing I had to warn you about if your in the north is with the openings on the sides for the cables there is so much dirt, sand, and salt that gets in there. Just a fore-warning.
 

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Yes....I took that into consideration too. I am not worried since my truck is not much of an offroad vehicle. Unless I get caught in a river ford or flash flood it shouldn't be an issue. I had already given some thought to road debris too. There are a few things I have in mind to try when I get it all cabled up.
 

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there are drain holes in the box.
 

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Yeah, but .....

We had those on a test van over one winter here in NJ and when we opened the cover I could not believe the amount of debris that were on top of the battery after two months.

These are not exactly "sealed" batteries and my concern for deep water is the water getting into the cells, poisoning the electrolyte and plates. I grew up in the Pine Barrens and going through swamps was normal fare.
 

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understood & agreed...its not necessarily IDEAL, snow, ice, salt, water, sand, mud / dirt...
for me - not ALL of those issues are a problem for me <all the time>....it will mean
some ADDITIONAL/OCCASIONAL maintenance.

Im looking at this as an ACCESSORY (car audio, electronics, lights) supply point.
Im not sure what type of battery ill use <deep cycle or a gel/agm sealed battery>,
either way....the undercarriage (3rd) aux battery will not be CRITICAL to the
operation of my truck. Im looking to reduce the load on the FACTORY (under hood)
batteries
 

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I myself use the sealed optimas and have no problem, I would def go with a sealed battery of some kind. Whats great is this mod keeps batteries away from the killing heat under the hood and if you keep your truck as clean as i do, like spraying the underside at every wash then theres no problem either which is great.
 
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