The Diesel Garage banner

1 - 20 of 21 Posts

·
Junior Member
Joined
·
48 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I want to flush my radiator coolent this weekend. How much antifreeze am I going to need?
 

·
is here and there.
Joined
·
10,573 Posts
I wanna know what you do with the used stuff. :shrugs
 

·
Junior Member
Joined
·
48 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
yea I don't ever buy the premix stuff. its just as easy for me to get water out of my evaporator in the basement
 

·
Senior Member
Joined
·
442 Posts
Did someone have a link on the procedure? Also, which coolant?
 

·
Member
Joined
·
211 Posts
Did someone have a link on the procedure? Also, which coolant?
There's a petcock on the bottom of the radiator, driver's side. Open it, and let all the fluid drain. Close the petcock, and refill system with new 50/50 mix.

One year later, repeat the above procedure.

If you skip a year or two, then the procedure gets much more involved. You'll have to flush everything multiple times, it takes a half day and your neighbors will get upset for all the green water running across their lawn.

There's too much controversy on coolant types. You'll have to make your own decision. I would suggest doing a Google search, or asking the counterman at NAPA.

Woody
 

·
Senior Member
Joined
·
442 Posts
I hear ya on the confusion, that's why I've never done it yet.

I bought the truck 3 years ago, think it's about time to do the flush. I have access to distilled water, is it a bad thing that all the old coolant wouldn't get flushed out? If I do it a couple times a year, I'm guessing eventually all the old coolant will be diluted/recycled out and it'd be fresh at some point.
 

·
Member
Joined
·
211 Posts
I hear ya on the confusion, that's why I've never done it yet.

I bought the truck 3 years ago, think it's about time to do the flush. I have access to distilled water, is it a bad thing that all the old coolant wouldn't get flushed out? If I do it a couple times a year, I'm guessing eventually all the old coolant will be diluted/recycled out and it'd be fresh at some point.
I would have to agree with this method.
 

·
Senior Member
Joined
·
442 Posts
Cool.

How do you get it so you can drain most of it? Should the truck be hot with the heat on before you turn it off and empty?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,090 Posts
If you are switching from the older coolant to an ELC you need to get the old stuff out before adding the new.

They don't mix well. I've heard stories of the two creating what is essentially a gel in the cooling system.

Turn the heater on and let the truck get up to temp, but without the cooling system being pressurized.

If you can park the truck nose downhill, do so.

Drain then fill with water. Get to temp, drain again. Repeat. Repeat again.

Now's a good time to replace the thermostat housing and thermostat while you have the system drained as well.

When the water comes out clear, or as close to clear as you think you'll get, then fill with 4 gallons of antifreeze and top off with distilled water.


prt
 

·
Senior Member
Joined
·
442 Posts
Is there a certain thermostat and housing I should be looking at? I did noticed in winter, the housing drips where it meets the engine, same as a buddy of mines truck.
 

·
Senior Member
Joined
·
442 Posts
I was just there, thinking about the coolant filter setup too.
 

·
Senior Member
Joined
·
568 Posts
there was some excellent posts on this a while back . Flushing coolant the right way. I dont remember who posted it , but , they were taking out the plugs in the block to get all of the sediments out . This was just an excellent post . Maybe it was maintain . I cant remember , maybe the mods can help you find it . Definately worth looking at .
 

·
Senior Member
Joined
·
459 Posts
there is a flushing process on the FAQ section over on TDS. i followed that and it works.
 

·
Member
Joined
·
281 Posts
I run Fleetguard Compleat in my truck and also in most of the equipment on our farm. It is supposed to be good for 150,000 miles or 4000 hours. It is also compatible with all other coolants. Will have to keep an eye on your dca levels but that's even easier if you add a coolant filter.
 

·
Mod Friendly Title
Joined
·
2,695 Posts
So if we don't plan on running an ELC what is a good coolant to run? Will just any ole coolant work???
 

·
Junior Member
Joined
·
6 Posts
Gooch's Coolant Change

Here it is in full detail. It works very well.

Here's the latest and most thorough instructions:

You'll need the following:
•4 gallons of anti-freeze concentrate.
*Tip* Do not use 50/50 pre-mixed coolant. After flushing, residual water will remain in your engine and cooling system that you can't get out. Therefore, adding pre-mixed 50/50 will further dilute the solution and yield a weak freeze point, along with a low level of corrosion and cavitation inhibitors. Your cooling system holds approximately 8 gallons. Adding 4 gallons of concentrate after flushing, and then topping off with distilled water, will ensure optimal protection.

*Tip* International who made your engine, and who's engine your Ford cooling system was designed around, recommended a Heavy Duty Extended Life Coolant (HD ELC) for all 2/2/99-up built engines (SN 940614-up). These are generally red coolants with operation lives of 300K-750K miles/6-8 years, depending on brand. They are very robust and require no maintenace or additives. Popular brands include International's Fleetrite ELC, Shell Rotella ELC, CAT ELC, Chevron Delo ELC, Peak Final Charge, Prestone Heavy Duty ELC, Zerex Extreme Heavy Duty, etc.

*Tip* Due to International's compatibility tests, all pre-2/2/99 build engines (pre-SN 940614) should use a conventional coolant with the addition of SCA (or a pre-charged conventional coolant already charged with SCA). Most conventional coolants will be green, "low-silicate" and meet ASTM D4985. There are too many brands to list. They will require the addition of a supplemental coolant additive (SCA) at initial fill and maintenance of that SCA thereafter. Most pre-charged conventional coolants will be pink, purple, or blue and meet ASTM D6210. These coolants do not require an initial dose of SCA, but will require SCA maintenance thereafter. These are coolants like Peak Fleet Charge, Prestone Heavy Duty, Zerex Precharge, Shell Diesel Ready, Fleetguard Fleetcool, Fleetrite Fully Formulated, and so on.

*Tip* Do not use "All Makes - All Models" coolants, or "Universal" coolants. They will not meet the needs of your diesel engine.
•SCA (if using conventional non-charged coolant). Amount depends on the SCA maker (usually 3-4 pints).
*Tip* Either a Nitrite only DCA-2 SCA or a Molybdate/Nitrite DCA-4 SCA will work.
•Up to 20 gallons of distilled water
*Tip* Tap water contains undesirable minerals, chemicals, and pH. If your tap water is good quality, you can do fewer distilled water flushes.
•A Prestone flush kit with 5/8" "T". HERE is a photo of a NAPA #720-1286 5/8" flush kit with "T".
*Tip* The "T" regulates and restricts faucet flow. Directly connecting to your faucet without one of these "T's" could damage your cooling system.
•1-1/2 foot of 5/8" hose (to go on flush "T").
•A new thermostat gasket. OEM Part# F4TZ-8255-A
*Tip* Now might be a good time to consider replacing:
Thermostat (OEM Part #F6TZ-8575-EA)
Thermostat housing (OEM Part# F81Z-8592-AA)
Upper radiator hose that goes around serpentine belt (OEM Part# F81Z-8260-CA)
Lower Radiator hose (OEM Part# YC32-8286-CE)
Degas bottle cap (OEM Part# F6DZ-8100-A)
New coolant filter (if you've added one)
Any hose clamps that you feel should be replaced.

Tools needed:
•3/4" wrench for drain plug
•8mm socket with rachet and extension for thermostat housing bolts
•1/4" socket driver for block plugs
•Pliers for hose clamps
•Torque wrench to re-torque thermostat housing bolts
•Emery cloth to clean thermostat housing and hose connections
•Bucket and suitable catch containers.
•Funnel
*Tip* A children's small plastic wading pool works good for a catch container. Some fit between the front wheels perfectly.

Flushing procedure:

Park truck on level surface. Allow to cool.

Remove degas bottle cap slowly (be careful if hot).

Use 3/4" wrench to losen radiator drain valve (bottom left-hand driver's side). Drain into suitable container. Expect at least a 5-gallon bucket-full.

Remove lower radiator hose (at radiator) and drain any sediment and/or coolant from radiator and hose into container.

Remove driver's side block plug with 1/4" socket wrench driver, and drain coolant into suitable container.

Remove passenger's side block plug with 1/4" socket wrench driver, and drain coolant into suitable container.

*Tip* This is best done without an extension on the wrench, working under the truck from the top rear side of starter - no need to remove starter.

Re-install both block plugs finger-tight.

Re-install lower radiator hose temporarily.

Close radiator drain valve.

Remove thermostat housing and thermostat.

Re-install thermostat housing without thermostat, using old gasket (it's ok if it leaks a little while flushing and running engine).

Remove heater hose at passenger's side coming off the engine (just below intercooler tube).

Install that heater hose to one end of the 5/8" flush "T".

Install 1 1/2 foot of 5/8" hose to other end of flush "T", Like this.

Install the remaining end of the 5/8" hose to fitting where the original hose was removed from the engine.

*Tip* You could permanently install the flushing "T" in the heater hose if desired. The heater hose removed in this procedure is the one consistent with what you'll find on the flush "T" directions. However, you could install the "T" on either heater hose.

Install garden hose onto flush "T", noting the direction of flow stamped on the "T".

Turn garden hose on until clear water (no green tint) runs (backflushes) out of top of degas bottle. This will take several minutes.

With hose still on, start and run engine for a couple of minutes, again until water coming out of degas bottle is clear (no green tint). Minor water leaks and spray from fan are normal.

Turn engine off. Turn garden hose off.

Drain radiator at drain valve, remove both block plugs, remove lower radiator hose.

Remove flushing "T", the extra 5/8" hose, and reinstall the original heater hose back onto engine.

Close radiator drain valve, reinstall and finger-tighten both block plugs, reinstall lower radiator hose (permanently).

Fill system with distilled water until the degas bottle is full.

Run engine a couple of minutes.

Drain radiator at drain valve, remove both block plugs.

Close radiator drain, reinstall and finger-tighten both block plugs.

Again, fill degas bottle with distilled water.

Run engine a couple of minutes.

Drain radiator at drain valve, remove both block plugs.

*Tip* You may decide to flush with distilled water one more time if your tap water is extremely bad.

Close radiator drain valve permanently. Do not over-tighten.

Install both block plugs and tighten permanently and firmly. Sealant can be used on the plugs sparingly, but it is not necessary.

Install thermostat and new thermostat gasket. If reusing the thermostat housing, use emery cloth to clean any rust/corrosion before installing.

Carefully torque the thermostat housing bolts to a maximum 15 ft-lbs. Do not over-tighten.

Add 4 gallons of anti-freeze concentrate to the degas bottle.

If using SCA, add it to cooling system per SCA manufacturer's instructions (usually 3-4 pints).

Add distilled water to finish filling the system until the degas bottle indicates between min/max.

Replace degas bottle cap.

Rinse off any coolant from engine and underbody of vehicle.

Turn in-cab heater valve all the way to "hot". This will help you determine if the thermostat is operating or if there is air left in the system.

Run engine (or drive truck for faster heating), until thermostat opens and hot air is felt through heater in cab. Periodically check coolant level adding distilled water as necessary. If heater does not get hot (or stay hot), it may be necessary to rev engine or purge air from the cooling system.

Add distilled water until level equalizes (min/max mark) in degas bottle (this may take several days).

Use test strip to test and add SCA if applicable.

This method will yield approximately a 50/50 mixture of coolant/distilled water. It is always best to have the freeze/boil protection tested with a quality refractometer. Most shops will do this free.

Write down date and mileage of coolant maintenance for future use.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Last edited by Gooch : 12-14-2008 at 01:25 PM.
 
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
Top