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Discussion Starter #1
Hello All! Been a while since I've posted. Is Harry6.0, Bismic, Weld Engineer, Idaho350, still on? Hope ya'll are doing great.
Filled up today and fuel gauge stayed where it was when I pulled in. I've seen it do this before about a year ago and all I did was shut of the truck and started it and it went to Full. Not this time. I've topped it off the last few fill-ups so I wonder if that did something to the sending unit? I can't image the float is stuck.

I know on gassers do not top off due to the vapor recycling crap but for diesel I'm thinking this shouldn't be a problem.
Anyone ever have to pull their sending unit out? I'm curious what's in there.

Cheers and Stay Safe
Bill
 

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Hello Bill.

I think I am one of the last ones still on here! This forum never really recovered after the database hack.

You may want to do a gauge sweep test first - just to make sure the dash gauge itself isn't the issue:
Note that with ForScan Lite ($5 app) on your smartphone, you can test these gauges. With the phone app, you need an OBDII adapter (WiFo for iOS and BliueTooth for Android). I like the BAFX adapters - they are cheap and they work. The Full Version of ForScan (free) on a laptop is a great tool as well, and you will need an adapter for it also - the USB version of OBDLink EX is nice.

Topping off is not a problem at all with diesels. I did the harpoon mod and fill until the diesel is almost flowing out of the fill tube.

Unfortunately the sending unit is expensive if it needs replacing, and you will need to figure out which one you need (different ones for different tank configurations).

There are several ways to remove the sending unit.
1. drop the fuel tank
2. loosen the bed bolts and jack up the bed at the "cab end" - ie tilt it to get enough room.

I use the "tilt the bed" method, but some folks (due primarily to bad rust) have issues with the bed bolts.

It helps to have a specific tool to remove the fuel tank cover that contains the sending unit. They are sometimes just hard to unscrew. They make several types of fuel tank lock ring removal tools. I used a tool like the one below (but I lost it):



Some people use strap wrenches as I understand, but I haven't used them.

This is a somewhat cheaper version:


Some people have had the original seal/gasket (o-ring) leak when they re-used it, but others have re-used it several times without issue. It is your call on re-using the old o-ring. Seems like achieving good results are 50/50 with re-using it.

Here is a great thread with pics about it:


Be aware that the pick-up tube "foot" is prone to getting brittle and breaking (or the red vacuum relief valve comes out from the side of the foot). IMO it should be changed when (if) you take that sending unit out (assuming you can find one of good quality). It used to be that the foot was not being made anymore, but I think that has recently changed. If it is still unavailable for the 6.0L, then you can use the one for a 7.3L, but just leave the filter cartridges out - the 6.0L does not need them and they would probably eventually plug and make you remove them down the road.

The fuel return line has a red rubber valve on the end of it. It is a reed valve and is intended to prevent backflow when the pump is off. They get brittle when they get old.

Pick-up foot part # E5TZ-9J306-BA
Reed valve part # E53Z-9H318-A
Sender Unit gasket (I believe that this number is correct) - 4L3Z-9276-AA (note - I don't think that this part number will fit the 03 and early 04 model years)

If the dealerships don't have the pick-up tube foot, then try the one below. Just be aware that plastic is easily counterfeited and almost always the counterfeit part is made from VERY inferior plastic. I like ProSource Diesel, but I haven't used this part from them, so I can not say for 100% sure how good the part is. Absolutely do NOT use a Dorman or TamerX part!


If my pick-up foot were to break, I would probably just install a Beans Diesel micro sump:


The sending units themselves are different for all of the different fuel tank configurations (and there are a bunch). If you are have to get a new sending unit, then you probably should get a part number from a local dealership that matches your VIN. You can always buy the unit from AutoNation White Bear Lake. They have about the best dealership prices anywhere, They have a GREAT department for internet orders, so you can call them (1-800-328-9552) and ask for internet sales.


IIRC, there are better threads about testing the sending unit, but I can't find them at the moment.
 

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Also, as an fyi, per the workshop manual, the spec for the sending unit is 15 +/- 2 ohms at the lower stop position and 160 +/- 4 ohms at the upper stop position.
 

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Hmmm, I put a lot of work into that response. I see you have logged on since it was posted. Absolutely NO comments ......?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Hello Mark. Glad to hear from you and see you're still on the board. Wow, you gave me a lot of info, I've got some work to do. Really appreciate it. I'm definitely going to look into the app you mentioned. I need a new gadget.

This past weekend I spent about 6 hours on a road trip the found the fuel gauge slowly - very slowly, made it to the full mark. It's probably just a matter if time before it doesn't move at all. Plan to spend some time on it this weekend.

Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Ordered the OBDLink EX . ForScan looks to be a heavy duty tool. Who is this group? I'll spend hours checking all the features.
 

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Thanks for the posts. I keep hoping to see more activity on this forum.

Definitely try the gauge sweep functions of ForScan. I like the tool. I have had the Lite version on my phone and have recently installed the full version on my laptop.

Not sure what you meant with the question "Who is this group?".
 
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