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Discussion Starter #1
I need to get more fuel to the motor but I already have a power puck and enjoy it a bunch. the cheapest way is the best.
 
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Sell the Power Puck and get a TST, Smarty, or Edge Comp or Drag Comp box. That would be the easiest and give you the most enjoyment. Also you probably need to upgrade your injectors to even get the full benefit out of the Puck. You could go full injectors or just nozzles.
 

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Yeah, scrap the puck, and get a drag comp and some injectors or nozzles. Get some gauges as well if you don't already have them. With a plain old comp, you can get your temps too high if you aren't careful, add more fuel, like injectors or nozzles, and you'll get really high really quick.
Sean
 

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What they said. Injectors are a must to get the full potential out of a box. Nozzles are great if you don't have much money.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Cool thanks now whats the diffrence between injectors and nozzles:shrug:
 
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duck said:
now whats the diffrence between injectors and nozzles:shrug:
Injectors are the whole physical thing, you take one out put a new one in, no more work other than that.

Nozzles are just the tips of the injectors. You take your injectors out and unscrew the tips, then screw your new nozzles back on in place of the originals. The just simply put the injector back in and go on to the next one.
 

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on edit: Well it looks like bouncer beat me to it.
In short, a nozzle is just a tip. Many nozzles now are engineered and really a good product, not just honed out stock nozzles(not that there is anything wrong with that). But like many complete injectors they have enhanced spray angles, more holes and varying sizes. Nozzles are a great way to go if you're on a budget.
Sean
 

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Discussion Starter #8
How much might those be to install at a shop or should i just do it myself
 
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I would think a shop would charge between $150-$300 depending on where you take it to have the work done. If you have basic metric hand tools, basic mechanical knowledge, and a little patience you could do it yourself in less than 2 hours.

It has been a while since I have done 24v injectors, but I think you will need a 8mm, 10mm & 13mm sockets, 4" & 8" extensions, a ratchet, and a couple wrenches to take the tips off and to loosen the injector lines.

Bascially take the air horn, grid heater, and APPS off and lay it out of the way. Loosen the injector lines and unscrew them out of the head. Take a small screw driver and pull the connector tubes back so they clear the injectors. Take the valve cover off and lay it off to the side. Take the injector hold downs off and set them aside. Then take one of the small bolts you have taken out, "it escapes me right now which one and where it comes from but you can figure it out" and screw it into the top of the injector and just pop them out. Change the nozzles and then re-install in opposite order. Just make sure you have the injector turned the proper way so the connector tube lines up with it and that the copper washer is still on the bottom of the injector.

After you get everythingback together leave one injector line loose. Bump the starter and let the lift pump run. Do this two or three times. Then crank until it starts and runs, when this happens hurry around to the motor and tighten the line so everything does not get covered in fuel. A buddy here helps a lot.

It sounds a lot harder than it really is.
 

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:whs also, a 3/4(19mm) crows foot for the 6 injector line. you maybe able to get it with out a crows foot. there is two bolt on the hold down remove the front one all the way and just loosen the one under the rocker arm, the hold down is slotted. it is real easy.
 

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it really isn't that hard of a job. If you do the nozzles, you will need a couple extra wrenchs and a decent sized vice. the great thing about jammer nozzles is that they are built well enough that you don't need them pop tested. I know several people running nozzles without having them pop tested and have no trouble.

Installing a complete injector is really easy though. 1.5-2hrs.
Sean
 

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you have to loosen the nozzle nut, which I think is a 15mm wrench, and then pull off the copper heat shielding washer and nozzle nut. the nozzle drops out, line the new one up (which is easy, there is a little locator pin) put the nozzle nut back on, torque it down and then put on a new shielding washer (which should be supplied with the nozzles). Some where I have pics of the whole process. When we did it for my buddies truck, we put the new nozzles in my stock injectors that way we could do it all at once, then we did an injector swap into his truck and I got his stockers back for my collection. If you can find someone in your area with a set of stock injectors you can use to do this with, I highly recommend it. That way if anything happens, you aren't stuck with a messed up injector, cause you can always leave your stockers in. Hope that made sense, I'll try to find the pics.
Sean
 

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Here is an exploded view of an injector.

 

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the hardest thing is getting the valve cover off, i think!
 

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on my truck I hated getting the valve cover off on my truck, and that number 6 injection line wasn't too much fun either. On my buddy's truck though, the vavle cover was a piece of cake, so I don't know what the difference was, but it isn't always bad.
Sean
 

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:whs I ended up making my own stubby 19mm wrench for the #6 cylinder. It was much easier after that. I also ended up tearing up some of the insulation with the valve cover whem removing it.
 
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akapparos said:
:whs I ended up making my own stubby 19mm wrench for the #6 cylinder.
If you can find a 19mm Flare Nut wrench and then cut about a 1/4 of the handle off it works perfect. That wrench holds much better and the shorter handle is just the ticket. :Thumbup:
 

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That's actually what I made it out of. I guess I should have added it was a flare nut wrench.
 
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