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Diesel Maniac
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110 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
On my 93 IDI when I turn ignition on to warm up glow plugs there is a clicking for several seconds and then it stops so I start it up and runs just fine. Someone told me it shouldn't click like that, so is this normal?

Thanks:read
 

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Old Fart
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889 Posts
I had a '93 IDI and mine did not click. The glow plug relay goes on when you start the engine. When cold the Glow Plug Relay should stay on for about 30 seconds. As you loose glow plugs (dead ones) the relay will stay on for less time. Have you checked your glow plugs? Use a Volt /ohm meter and check each one. If they are open (very high ohms) they are bad. Use only Beru or Motorcraft glow plugs when replacing them.
 

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Diesel Maniac
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110 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
I turn ignition on wait till clicking stops and it starts right up very smooth and powerful running engine. So it can't b glow plugs. It starts good warm or cold.
 

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Diesel Maniac
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110 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
I pull a 3 ton chris craft barge very strong 7.3 never misses or a bunch of smoke and very good on fuel.
 

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Diesel Maniac
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110 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
This f350 hauled chickens on a ranch here in east texas it's whole life. 180,000 miles
On him. It has set in a pasture for 3 years. I put fuel and new batteries and oil changes he fired up and I haven't did to much to him. The rancher has log on everything that was
Done to it since new. I asked the rancher how much he wanted for him he said 400.00 so I took it. But I have a/c issues, speedometer and tach problems, but I will get it, thanks
 

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Junior Member
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3,533 Posts
From memory the mag switch is in the valley of the engine, get someone to activate the solinoid and you put a test light or voltmeter to the terminal that activates it. one small terminal will be a ground the other one activates the solinoid. check the ground, and tug test the wires, while testing, check the power is stable. The solinoid itself could be the problem as could the relay to it.
Just a thought!
 
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Junior Member
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3,533 Posts
There are 4 terminals on the mag switch two bigger ones, one of them has constant battery power, the other bigger one goes to the glow plugs.
The two smaller ones, one is ground you check that with an OHM meter to be sure it has a good ground anything above .1 is not great. The other small terminal comes from the glow plug switch that is what activates the mag switch. That is the terminal you test to be sure it has constant voltage. If it has constant voltage and the ground is good and the mag switch is intermittent then the mag switch is junk.
Just a thought!
 
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Diesel Maniac
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110 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Why am I checking the switch? The truck is starting just fine. And running great. My original question was, is the clicking to warm up glows, normal? The Ford dealer says some models do click, click, click to warm up glows on some of the older models without PCM. I will remember what you said about testing, if I ever have trouble....

Thanks
 

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Aimless Wanderer
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929 Posts
If it is clicking as mentioned one of three things are in the beginning stages of failure. Assuming OEM parts are still installed: One or more glow plugs are failing, the RC network, (timer) that regulates the "on cycle time" of the glow plug relay, (contactor) is failing, or the original soft start contactor feature has failed which enables it to "slam home".

None of these symptoms will put the vehicle out of service and a couple of glow plugs not working in a temperate climate can go unnoticed as being defective as far as cold starting. It's a lot different scenario at 10 degrees rather than 30 for example.
 

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Diesel Maniac
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110 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Starts just fine, the dealer says it's ok. And never that cold around here. I drive it every day. My other 93 7.3 does the same thing runs great. Now the 96 7.3 powerstroke don't.
On the others all glows are working and everything checks out........Mab u never seen one of these or something, a top tech says aok.......
Thanks
 

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Aimless Wanderer
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929 Posts
I've probably seen a couple hundred problems, and repaired 50+ of them myself. The clicking you speak of is not detrimental to operation at all and is one of the original customer complaint issues when diesel sales first started to take hold in this country in both light trucks and passenger cars. This soft start was enacted sometime in the late 1980's as the clicking or clunk was a large source of complaints. The 6.9ltr engines never had the soft start contactors and were always loud when they snapped closed. You really don't have a problem with the starting system and doesn't seem to be a cause for concern.

I have to ask as you stated you were a retired GM tech? Did you not see any of these same complaints/issues with GM products as they were many in the same.
 

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Diesel Maniac
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110 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Kool backslap, not only you but this is a large topic around here. These powerstrokers keep knockin my truck because of click click. And several techs I have seen say no there is a problem and it needs to b fixed. But an old timer here in huntsville tx I ask him if he would take a look at my truck. He kept it overnight and the next day he said you only gave 400.00 for this truck and I said yes, then he asked if I wanted to sell it and I said no way. Then I asked him how much was my bill for all his testing he sayed I could not find anything wrong. He also said no charge. Well I told him that won't do, will u take a tip, he said sure so flipped him a hundred and asked him when I have any problems with any of my trucks can I come and c u? He said anytime.. And he also said that 1991 - 1993 were the best years in the 7.3 IDI no turbo models ever. It just made me feel great, I want to thank you very much for all your help, backslap............
 

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Aimless Wanderer
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929 Posts
Kool backslap, not only you but this is a large topic around here. These powerstrokers keep knockin my truck because of click click. And several techs I have seen say no there is a problem and it needs to b fixed. But an old timer here in huntsville tx I ask him if he would take a look at my truck. He kept it overnight and the next day he said you only gave 400.00 for this truck and I said yes, then he asked if I wanted to sell it and I said no way. Then I asked him how much was my bill for all his testing he sayed I could not find anything wrong. He also said no charge. Well I told him that won't do, will u take a tip, he said sure so flipped him a hundred and asked him when I have any problems with any of my trucks can I come and c u? He said anytime.. And he also said that 1991 - 1993 were the best years in the 7.3 IDI no turbo models ever. It just made me feel great, I want to thank you very much for all your help, backslap............
Any of that series of engine was good if it was worked with on a balanced plan. The turbochargers used on them at the OEM level were not the best, (IMO) but if you bolted something on that would make considerable more power without strengthening the other parts, problems showed up quickly. A lot of folks put on a larger turbocharger and did nothing with the injection system and I seen plenty of scarred cylinders and pistons from running lean at full throttle. Lots of head gaskets also. Also seen a lot of exhaust manifolds busted from heat. Most of this could have been prevented/lessened with a balanced approach to more power, installing a pyrometer, and using it correctly. I like that original 7.3ltr myself; much better than the later "Powerstrokes". I'm not out for the largest power in the smallest package. I am only interested in fitting the equipment properly to the job. There is a lot more profitability using this approach.

Pretty good guy to look at your truck on formal time and not charge a basic shop charge. Really don't see that too often any longer. Best stop by and visit occasionally with fresh coffee.
 

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03 f350 xl 7.3 2wd x-tend
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119 Posts
As far asmy research found when I was having GP issues was that some models, mines a '93 N/A also, and this is how mine worked after replacing bad GPs and the controller. On cold start turn key on and I see voltage drop due to load for about 20-30 seconds. Then it starts clicking and the voltage bounces along with the clicking, and this is when you start it. The system is cycling the GP to aid in cleaning up the exhaust on initial start up. I have to watch my volts because, my Wait To Start light has a mind if it's own. It may work once a day. Still haven't tracked that problem down.
 

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Diesel Maniac
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110 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Right on

As far asmy research found when I was having GP issues was that some models, mines a '93 N/A also, and this is how mine worked after replacing bad GPs and the controller. On cold start turn key on and I see voltage drop due to load for about 20-30 seconds. Then it starts clicking and the voltage bounces along with the clicking, and this is when you start it. The system is cycling the GP to aid in cleaning up the exhaust on initial start up. I have to watch my volts because, my Wait To Start light has a mind if it's own. It may work once a day. Still haven't tracked that problem down.
My light does the same thing. :bang I just got a set of Alcoa and my mileage has got a lot better. With aluminum wheels and new tires and brakes. The brakes were dragging a little all this has really helped.
Thanks
 

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03 f350 xl 7.3 2wd x-tend
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119 Posts
I'm finally checking my mileage since I put a salvage IP on. Have noticed power increase with it over my old one. Was wondering if anyone thought they'd get better mileage with skinnier tires. I was thinking if going back to what my door said to have, 235/85R16 instead if my 265/75R16's
 

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Diesel Maniac
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110 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
Mine is a 93 5 spd also on speedometer, nothing works mph dial or odometer. Everyone keep saying change sensor on tranny. Where is it located? Left side on tranny is it the front of tranny or near driveshaft on left side?
 
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