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Discussion Starter #41

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Here is a very good web site for a wide range of Peterbilt schematics, wiring diagrams and the like down-loadable without charge. SuperMiller.com Register easily and scroll down right side of home page to Schematics.

It is run by Larry Miller who is a parts man at Sikeston Peterbilt in Sikeston, Mo. Toll Free (877) 884-7895. Very knowledgable and personable. Willing to forward Paccar's exploded diagrams on request.
 

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Thanks for the thread 379LH: As i remember, you created this thread and keep it going,adding to it regularly. There are many good links here with very good information. :happymugs
 

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Roadranger service manuals are here together with a comprehensive index and resource guide for all things Eaton. A gateway to the company's library:

http://www.roadranger.com/Roadranger/index.htm

http://www.roadranger.com/ecm/groups/public/@pub/@eaton/@roadranger/documents/content/rr_trsm-1500lr.pdf (slow loading and problematic)


An Eaton Roadranger parts book (2010). (Takes a while to load)

http://www.roadranger.com/ecm/groups/public/@pub/@eaton/@roadranger/documents/content/rr_rtxf-15715.pdf
 

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Discussion Starter #50 (Edited)
Panellite stuff and lots of other shiney stuff
http://www.phoenixdesignmfg.com/cpc.php#catalog
quote below is copied and pasted from a reply in rides & rebuilds post by BIGREDFRED
What's in a name?

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Even though Dieters has bought the Panelite name, that is all they have.

Phoenix Design & Manufacturing in Oklahoma City is the premier place to get all of your Class 8 truck accessories. Their staff is composed of the former Paneilte employees that made Panelite what it was when they were the premier supplier for this market.

Do not be fooled by the name that Panelite is today. It is not and never will be what it was before.

Make the wise choice. Chose Phoenix Design & Maufacturing as your supplier of the BEST there is in Class 8 truck accessories.

PHOENIXDESIGNMFG.COM
 

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Discussion Starter #56 (Edited)
Complete bottle test QUOTE FROM JOHNP3


To do a proper complete bottle test, you have to test the radiator cap, and be sure it is holding pressure, at least 10 lbs.
The coolant must be good to at least -40F, and the correct level.
I like to do it from a cold engine, and adapt another compressed air source to hook into the fan solenoid, to run the Fan when needed.
You want an infrared temp gauge, to monitor when the thermostat opens, and to check that it is not bypassing coolant. Past the seals or a stuck thermostat.
You want to drain the complete air system every last pound, disconnect the air compressor out-put hose.
Check the oil level and PS.
Start the motor and run it to 1,000 RPM. test the top rad pipe for temperature, and when the coolant temperature at the oil cooler, or water pump gets to above 70F you can crank up the speed, Max RPM does not hurt it, and is a lot quicker.
Turn on all your lights on, no heater fan, no AC.
You need a plastic bottle clear is best, I add a little soap, and use a bungee cord or wire to hang it so the recovery discharge line is in the bottom.
Monitor the top radiator pipe, it should stay cold until the thermostat opens if not the seals or the thermostats are leaking.
Monitor the temperature the fan come in, the bubbles will blow while it is heating up that is OK, monitor the temperature the fan comes off.
When the fan has come on the third time, then, the forth time, if you are still getting bubbles, you have a problem, and it failed the test.
Remove the hose from the bottle, and idle the engine, wearing gloves, attached the air compressor discharge hose, remove the auxiliary, air source, and reconnect, original hose, put the engine speed back up and the hose back in the bottle.
Let the air build, then open, or tie back the air tank drains so you have the compressor cycling. when the fan comes on and you have no bubbles it passes.
If you have no bubbles, before the air compressor is attached, and bubbles after, the problem is the compressor.
Remove the hose from the bottle. Shut off the air discharge valves and be sure they are closed properly.
You either have work to do or have removed one possibility from the list.
Remove the oil fill cap if it is wet with water or foam, that is a bad thing, get your creeper and check the vent hose if it has droplets of water in it that is bad, the coolant is getting into the oil.
Just a thought!
 

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Ok... but I'm missing the big picture here. What is one trying to diagnose or accomplish with a "bottle test"? When would a mechanic do a bottle test?

Roger
 

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Ok... but I'm missing the big picture here. What is one trying to diagnose or accomplish with a "bottle test"? When would a mechanic do a bottle test?

Roger
You want to do a bottle test on most every unit that has an overheating, loosing coolant, even running cold. What it does is gives you the information on what is happening in the cooling system, are the thermostats sealing properly if the top pipe warms up as the engine is run the seals are leaking, you will know when the thermostats open when the fan comes on, and off, is it consistent, is the radiator cooling the coolant by testing the outlet rad temperature after the fan shuts down. You can test the sensors, are they accurate, with your infrared gun. The more of them you do the more things you learn it can tell you. The main thing is it tells you if there is compression in the cooling system. Is it from the compressor. Is it from a heater flow control valve.
The more you learn about the unit the better able you are to make the right, and cheapest repair plan. Changing thermostats will not repair a radiator that is not cooling the coolant. Is an example, when you do a lot of them and the fan normally comes on for 15 seconds and all of a sudden the unit you are running takes a minute then you have to start looking at the radiator area not pulling the head.
 
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