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Discussion Starter #1
I had my 2005 Power stroke bulletproofed two years ago, including an EGR delete. The place that did it went out of business right after.

My truck just started running bad. I'm not sure what's going on, but I've been dealing with a sticking injector intermittently. It was idling and suddenly had a dead miss. The turbo boost is hardly moving. I tried driving it around the block to see if the miss would go away, but no luck.

The question is - have any of you had an EGR delete and then taken it back to the dealer? I don't want them to undo the delete and charge me a fortune.
 

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I had my 2005 Power stroke bulletproofed two years ago, including an EGR delete. The place that did it went out of business right after.



My truck just started running bad. I'm not sure what's going on, but I've been dealing with a sticking injector intermittently. It was idling and suddenly had a dead miss. The turbo boost is hardly moving. I tried driving it around the block to see if the miss would go away, but no luck.



The question is - have any of you had an EGR delete and then taken it back to the dealer? I don't want them to undo the delete and charge me a fortune.


Is the truck smoking at all? Mine sounded like a miss that graduated into a knock sound. Ended up being a bad injector that took out the glow plug. Watch your egts too. Mine was a cracked nozzle
 

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It all depends on the dealership. Some are OK with it and many aren't. Ask them. +1 on getting the injector issue resolved quickly.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks, guys. I found a different repair shop to take it too. They haven't had a chance to look at it yet. I had head gaskets replaced 18 months ago and they did the complete top end bulletproofing. They checked the injectors, but didn't find anything. Whatever the problem is, it's resulting in a dead miss. The whole truck is rocking when it's idling and it's barely running.

If it does turn out to be a bad injector, would you replace all of them or just the bad one?

The truck has 120,000 miles on it and all the injectors are original.
 

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It really depends. You could replace them all but it depends if you want to spend that type of money. I replaced just the one when I did mine solely on the fact that I was planning on doing bigger injectors later.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I talked to the repair shop last night and they recommended changing just the two bad ones for $1400. That's a change from the local dealer. I was a diesel mechanic in the 70s and I know a little about them, although the modern diesels are quite a bit more complicated than the ones I use to work on. I took my truck to Ford several years ago because it was running really rough and I told the service writer that it was a fuel issue and that I had already replaced the air and fuel filters and there was no debris or water in the fuel.

The dealer replaced the filters again and cleaned the turbo and gave me a bill for $1500. I told them I was skeptical that this would solve the problem. The truck started running rough before I had gone 10 miles and had to be towed back to their shop. This time they diagnosed it as a broken spring in the fuel pressure modulator. Duh. Not only was this what I suggested when I dropped it off, it was a known problem in the 6.0 and could have been easily diagnosed using a fuel pressure gauge. That was my second negative transaction with them and I won't go back.

I appreciate your input and thank everyone who responded.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
More bad news. The shop replaced the injectors and the engine is still missing on number 8. They found metal shavings in the oil. I've never had this much trouble with a truck in my life. I've spent more in repairs for this truck than I spent to buy my last new truck.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The news just keeps getting worse. After replacing the #6 and #8 injectors, the engine still had a miss on #8. They pulled the injector and scoped the cylinder and found metal pieces in the cylinder. It also looked like the piston was cracked. It's going to cost me another 4000 to 5000 to have them pull the engine and tear it down to see what the issue is.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
They said they found metal shavings in the oil and debris in the cylinder. I'm thinking a hole in a piston would explain that. They also said that it could be a cam follower, but I'm having trouble trying to picture how a cam follower would end up in the cylinder.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
A dropping injector can melt a hole in a piston.
Perhaps that's what has happened?
I guessing that you're correct. They were going to start tearing it down yesterday, so I don't have anything definitive yet. The mechanic said that it ran really rough at idle and then smoothed out at about 2000 rpm. To me that would indicate a cracked piston.

As soon as they get it fixed, I'm trading it in.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Last follow up for anyone who cares.

I got the truck back last week. It ended up costing me $7000. It had bent valves, bent pushrods, damaged cam followers, and a damaged fuel injector on #8 and they replaced the oil cooler and High Pressure Oil Pump and plumbing for the injection system due to metal parts and pieces in it.

It runs good and my EOT and ECT temps are running within a couple of degrees of each other again.

Just speculating on the cause - It could have been a hydrostatic lock on #8 caused by a sticking injector. It's also possible that something was dropped down the intake when it was worked on last, however there's nothing that looks like foreign materials in the cylinder. The metal looks like it came from the broken cam followers.
 

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Sorry about the bad luck Mabynack.

Any cylinder over pressurization from fluid hydro-lock be it fuel or coolant will usually bend a connecting rod or blow a headgasket first.

Cam follower fails on the 6.0L usually result in the small needle bearings inside the roller follower fall out and dropping down into the oil pan, they are small enough to go right through the oil pump pickup screen and into the oil pump gears resulting in loss of oil pressure and a no start or run condition, the oil pump and front cover usually get severely damaged and one can see the tiny needles embedded in the main oil pump assembly at the front crankshaft behind the balancer.

I'm hoping they checked and replaced the main oil pump gears, as that is the first place that any metal gets introduced into the oil system.

Sticking lifters can cause the pistons to hit the valves and bend the valves and pushrods.

I'm puzzled on the root cause of the damage. Keep us posted on any new findings, or if you have any pictures of the carnage, that would help.

Harry
 
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Discussion Starter #14
I didn't see a new main oil pump on the list of parts. They did replace the HPOP. They pulled the engine and cleaned it. I'm not sure how far they tore it down. They only mentioned the top end. So far it's running well. The repair shop said that they were skeptical of the previous shop's claims that they had a valve job done. The service manager said that the heads looked all original. I paid the last shop to check all the injectors and have a valve job, as well as ARP head studs.
 

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Since it's running well again, then I doubt that anything in the main oil pump failed. To bend the valve-s something had to cause the fail, one possibility is that a roller lifter fail caused a loose pushrod to pop out of place and jam a rocker arm and valve open. At least your back on the road again. All the newer trucks are even more expensive when they fail badly, but it still doesn't ease your cost pains. Hopefully you are good to go for along time.

Harry
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks, Harry. It's running great right now. After they changed the oil cooler 2 years ago the coolant and oil temps were still 10 degrees apart. Now they run within a couple of degrees of each other. The truck is also getting 1 -2 mpg better mileage right now. That could be because they changed the tune. Hopefully I won't have any more expensive repairs for a few years.
 
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