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Bought My truck new in 04, 3500 4 x4, stock. I live in the flat lands of central Illinois and pulled out east ( I-68 and I-64) this summer. so I monitored the temp gauges since I was now aware of the problem. Pulled same roads the year before but temps were in the 60's and to tell the truth I did not pay a lot of attention to the gauges. Outside temps were in the mid
80's and I was pulling my 29 foot fifth wheel, mid profile, and weighs in at about 8600 lbs as it sits. The engine temp would go up to 235 and the clutch fan would kick in, but the transmission went almost to the RED on the gauge, which looks to be around 255. No alarms came on or fuel shut off which I understand will if it is overheating? Took it to dealer whom changed the tranny temp due to them stating it was scorched. They have a TSB on overheating and am now waiting on an 06 air box or something. HAS ANYONE had this done to there LLY and did it work? I am way under the max towing limit which tells me I would have probably shut down with another 7K added to the trailer. I guess I will let them try and head east again.
 

· BUG JUICER and
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A cold air intake would be an improvement, if it could pull cold air. The CAI GM solution is not very effective. The fan is so powerful, it stuffs superheated air into it due to intake positioning. IOW, the intake is not so much the problem, as the fan-intake thermal feedback link.

Fingers, some time back, played with a deflector to reduce the influence of the fan on thermal feedback. This idea has merit, if it is done in conjunction with a mod thay lifts pressure of the CA source from outside. One way to do this, I believe, is to remove the headlight. Another is a directional scoop on the external fender, like some light aircraft have: one you can turn backward for foul (or cold) weather. Or a complete redesign of air source, like swapping the passengers side airbox and battery locations, and opening the hood up. Or some other out-of-the-box solution.

Start over. First, here is the issue(s).

1. Overdriven fan
2. No low pressure area to help exhaust the fan product
3. excessive pressure drop in the LLY induction mechanism.
4. Front end design, too small.
5. Lack of adequate electronic measures to reduce the causes.

Most of these combine to create a thermal feedback loop, that deteriorates performance at WOT power levels.

The intake helps, but does not absolutely prevent the IAT rise that occurs in this storm, I have seen IAT of 240 or more, as much as 180 with an unmentioned "cold air intake". I do think the GM retrofit helps, BTW, though not in a real big way. Compressor temps jump to 500-600 degrees, even with stock boost levels. Ultimately, this results in reduced power (slowdown) and a CAC so hot, that the radiator cannot function.

An aside, if you ever get down to Phoenix, I would like to probe your vehicle a bit.

If it appears that you have lost power when you get the truck back with new intake, bring it back and tell them they forgot to reflash the MAF voltage scaling. Dealers seem to like to skip this step. It throws codes in some trucks, but not all. Without this step, fuel (and performance) will be reduced
 

· BUG JUICER and
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I forgot to mention, the most impact against overheating, and fan operation elimination, has been the TD-EOC, a purpose built solution for the duramax specific. It has dramatic transmission temp reduction as well as a nice mpg improvement. Give it a look. From your description, the intake won't give enough improvement.
 

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killerbee said:
I forgot to mention, the most impact against overheating, and fan operation elimination, has been the TD-EOC, a purpose built solution for the duramax specific. It has dramatic transmission temp reduction as well as a nice mpg improvement. Give it a look. From your description, the intake won't give enough improvement.
That is a fairly bold statement seeing as we have never tested it against a similar vehicle with the other option. There are many with the other option who are quite pleased.
 
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