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Formerly CursedtoFirst45
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1,225 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Ok, so i installed my fuel pressure gauge today and im not happy to say the least. I bled the lines of air and the truck runs and starts. However the fuel pressure gauge is acting erratic. When first started it will go up to about 14psi then go down to about 3.5 psi and stay there. At wot, it RISES to about 16 or 17. I have no idea why my gauge is acting backwards like this.
 

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Formerly CursedtoFirst45
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1,225 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
THe gauge is an electric glowshift and the sender is mounted in the banjo bolt replacement that i ordered from vulcan performance which is mounted in the port in the injection pump. Wasnt i supposed to replace the original banjo bolt?

I tried to unscrew the sensor, i checked the wiring and reinstalled the sensor, then i bumped the starter 3 times before starting. While i was bumping the starter waiting for the lift pump to stop i noticed a constant 15psi on the gauge. Then obviously the gauge went to zero which is when i bumped again, then a third time. After bumping, i started the truck and noticed about 14psi for no less then 5 seconds. Then the gauge went to 2 psi at idle. I took the truck on another test ride and it goes to like 17 at wot. Im basically stunned. I know i should be seeing about 10psi at wot and 15-16 at idle. If the truck didnt rise at wot, i would think that i need a new lift pump, but since the gauge rises instead of falls, i have no clue whats up. Any ideas
 

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Senior Member
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3,514 Posts
That beats me man. I can't think of why it would do that. Hope you get it sorted out, or else the gauge really doesn't do you much good.
Sean
 

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Formerly CursedtoFirst45
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1,225 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
i hear that. One good thing that came of this...it looks good in that cubby. ill try to get a pic up of it. Looks almost factory optioned. Do you think i need a needle valve to dampen the pulses? Should i unscrew the sender and install a needle valve the run a fuel line from that to the sender(mounted vertically) somewhere else in the engine compartment?
 

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Boost Junkie
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318 Posts
cursedtofirst45 said:
i hear that. One good thing that came of this...it looks good in that cubby. ill try to get a pic up of it. Looks almost factory optioned. Do you think i need a needle valve to dampen the pulses? Should i unscrew the sender and install a needle valve the run a fuel line from that to the sender(mounted vertically) somewhere else in the engine compartment?
I would install a needle valve to dampen the pulses either way. If not the pulses could be messing with the sender.
 

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Formerly CursedtoFirst45
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1,225 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
screw it. I went and bought a $20 ball valve and installed it. Still no change, i also checked the connections. I think either the sender is bad or the gauge is bad. Maybe both. Im sending them back.

Beware Glowshift fp gauges.
 

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2nd Gen Guru
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2,641 Posts
Get a good mechanical gauge (DiPricol, Autometer, ISSPro) and skip the isolator...:poke:
 

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Formerly CursedtoFirst45
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1,225 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Mopar1973Man said:
Get a good mechanical gauge (DiPricol, Autometer, ISSPro) and skip the isolator...:poke:
im already there. Im probably gonna go dipricol since you've been running it for 4 years w/o any problems. I think its just way too coincidental that the first fp gauge i get from glowshift doesnt work. Therefore their products mean little to me
 

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2nd Gen Guru
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2,641 Posts
cursedtofirst45 said:
im already there. Im probably gonna go dipricol since you've been running it for 4 years w/o any problems. I think its just way too coincidental that the first fp gauge i get from glowshift doesnt work. Therefore their products mean little to me
Right on...:Thumbup:
 
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