When i pulled his pump it was wet on the bottom back of it, where the C clip holds the guts in, the front shaft seal looks great and has no play in the shaft at all, the truck runs great so its not shot, but evey one says its not servicable, ford wants 800 and we found a reman for 483. but 20 sounds much better. We also have one out of a motor that was in a fire but i dont want to trust that if we can fix or get a new one.
They are nonserviceable. You have to get a reman if you want to replace it. Give Rick at Seattle Injector a call. 206-623-1135 Not 100% sure on the price but it seems the last time I priced one it was a bit uner $400. He will need your cor back though.
Dealerships and parts suppliers seem to be quite adept at using oxymorons.... using "non serviceable" and "REMAN" in the same sentence. Apparently they are serviceable to somebody. It would be nice if the average joe had access to the same stuff the big companies use to "reman" parts. Please pardon my venting, haha.
Agreed. We did have some guys by use put a seal kit in it for us and we have it all to gether, now we just have to crank the piss out of it to get the fluids primed and pry it dont leak, if it does and i cant see it i might buy a uv die kit and try that, im prying its not the turbo pedistol cause it looks like a PITA to take it off this motor vs the 6.0L, almost looks like the uppipes have to come off but i have no clue.
Ok so we got everything back together and it doesnt seem tobe leaking any but a couple drips here and there. but it still seems to be loosing alot of oil. there doesnt seem to be any fresh oil in the valley of the motor.where do I go from here. everythings sealed and holding uptop the motor from what we can see.
when i lifted the filter out it was very dark, injector orings here we come, Thanks for the replay. Also i see there is special tools in the book to pull them and seat them is this right or is there a way around it, if so how.
Mine was leaking from the O-rings on the HPOP where the two hoses go to the heads. Those push to release fittings....
I've pulled injectors before on a 444E, but its been a couple years. I dont remember any special tools..just a small pry bar to pop the injector up and a very small screw driver to get the injector o-rings on and off. To put them back in i've allways just pushed hard. But again, its been awhile since I did one, so dont yankem out just cus i said you dont need anything special. Goodluck, hope you find the problem.
What orings leak to cause the oil to mix with fuel?:shrug: it would have to be something inside of it of the 2 lower ones, Do i have to buy the kit for the lower ones cause ford is telling me the kit they have is all 8 per injetor or just a kit for the top black ones, are the lower ones something i can get at a good parts store.
i worked at international and we allways did all the orings on all 8 injectors. I dont remember how they came, either as a set of 8 or individual injectors. I've never looked at an autoparts store for the kits. Like i said, i worked at international so i got the parts for cheap and i allways used those. Too bad i dont work there anymore, i'd hook you up.
but it does sound like you have oring probs. I'd do all origns on all 8 to be sure, so you dont have to crack it open again in a couple weeks if you missed something. Thats frusterating and time consuming
There are special tools made to remove and install the injectors. They aren't 100% necessary though. You can just use a prybar to get them out. Lube them up real good when you put them back in. You can use engine oil but I've found some of the thicker oil additive such as STP works better. We have some stuff that Stanadyne sells called syncut that works very well. Slide the injectors in and push hard. If you can't get them to seat all the way hook the hold down over the first bolt and push down on the back of the hold down. This will act like a lever and seat the injector. DO NOT USE A HAMMER TO DRIVE THEM IN!!!!!! A lot of people like to do that but it is highly NOT recomended and strictly cautioned in every publication you see about installing injectors. Make sure you suck all the crap out of the cylenders because the oil and fuel in the rails will go in the cylenders. If you pull the back injectors first the majority of it will go in the back. You can also drain the oil rails via the plugs just under the valve cover gasket on the inside.
The o-rings that will cause the oil in fuel failure are the middle ones. The new ones will be pink. They had a couple different versions initially so it's hard to say what's in it now. If they are pink then they've been changed once already. I've never seen the o-rings sold separately and wouldn't recomend installing just the one anyway. The kits come for one complete injector. 90% of the time it's the external o-rings so you shoudl be fine but there is a slight chance it could be leaking from one of the internal o-rings which would require dissassembly of the injectors so you'd want to send them somewhere that has the proper tools to do that if that is the issue.
Check that nut in the back and if it's loose they usaually pull the threads. If it hasent pulled the the threads just reuse the o-ring if it isnt damaged and put lock tite on the threads. There was a service letter from International concerning this and all that came in the kit was a new plug, o-ring and instructions to lock tite it in.
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