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Discussion Starter #1
The hitch on my F250 says it has a 6000lbs carrying weight and 15,000lbs weight distibution...

I thought I knew what this meant a while back, but lately, I have been confused....

The weight dist. is this on the trailer or on the hitch? when using a trailer, how would I know?

I ask because I am looking at getting a car hauler due to a recently high need for one, and with the trailer weight I am looking at + the average weight I would be carrying would total more then 6k lbs and though I have no fear my truck can handle the load due to doing this combo many many times, I know over time stress can cause uneeded wear and tare, and I would hate to damage the truck/trailer/hitch etc....

The trailer I am looking at will have dual axles and brakes... my wiring is from ford and I have the 7-pin harness to run brakes, but no factory installed brake controller, Can I run this without one? or do I actually need a controller too?

I have no problems hauling, do it all to often, but have always rented or borrowed and used my 4-pin anyways, so these are all research concerns and inquiries to prepare myself for finally breaking down and owning one...LOL

advice?
 

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The weight distribution is the drawbar (what you insert in the receiver) It'll have a 2-5/16" ball and two long bars with chains on the ends. There are brackets that need to be mounted to the trailer neck to attach the chains. When you load the bars (by tightening the chains) the hitch transfers weight to the front axle of the truck (sort of)

If the trailer+load is going to be heavier than the vehicle pulling it, I'd highly recommend using a WD hitch.

You can run without one, but if your rear sags too much the front will be difficult to handle at highway speed (especially if the trailer is long and heavy)

Get a brake controller, unless you're pulling jetskis or snowmobiles, you need brakes on the trailer.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Well the last trailer I had had a 4100lb truck on it, while the trailer weighed close to 2000 lbs itself... my suspension is rediculously stiff and the rear probably only dropped about an inch... did not relieve weight on the front wheels. This was one of the reasons I bought this truck....

Now the stiff ride makes it hard without a load from time to time, but I have gotten used to it...

Now if I were to use the WD feature, I would need a different reciever and a trailer setup for it, correct?
 

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Well the last trailer I had had a 4100lb truck on it, while the trailer weighed close to 2000 lbs itself... my suspension is rediculously stiff and the rear probably only dropped about an inch... did not relieve weight on the front wheels. This was one of the reasons I bought this truck....

Now the stiff ride makes it hard without a load from time to time, but I have gotten used to it...

Now if I were to use the WD feature, I would need a different reciever and a trailer setup for it, correct?
only a different hitch. you can add the brackets to whatever trailer you choose.

Garrett
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I looked up a few pictures of this setup and I am a little confused again...



Wouldn't this setup restrict the turning radius?


Looks like it would bind if I had to take a sharp turn.... can ya tell I have never used this setup? lmao
 

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actually, from experience with it it hasnt seemed to be too bad.

Garrett
 

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I looked up a few pictures of this setup and I am a little confused again...



Wouldn't this setup restrict the turning radius?


Looks like it would bind if I had to take a sharp turn.... can ya tell I have never used this setup? lmao
No, the bars pivot with the trailer, the only limit is your truck's bumper :D
 
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Discussion Starter #8
I can see that now that you said that. Makes a lot more sense to me now. Thanx.
 

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Since the bar's pivot point is not at the same location as the hitch ball, you do get a little binding at extreme turns. I've got a long tongue on my trailer so I didn't run into bumper interference before it bound up. Had to jack up and undo the bars while I maneuvered around a tight parking lot, then hooked back up when I hit the highway again. This was an extreme case though.

Regards,
Michael Pliska
 

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Discussion Starter #10
So with this in place, I would not need the chains like in a normal setup, correct?

and does this also help to slow down, minimize or even eliminate trailer sway while driving?
 

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So with this in place, I would not need the chains like in a normal setup, correct?

and does this also help to slow down, minimize or even eliminate trailer sway while driving?
You still need safety chains, as with any ball hitch.

It will reduce sway, but not eliminate it alone.
Most hitch manufacturers have additional attachments for sway control.

The pic you posted has a small ball set off to the side, that's where your anti-sway attachment would go.

Some high-end hitches have the sway control built in, but they're $$$.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I see.... I think I am understanding this now.... Hopefully I will be getting a trailer of my own here in a few weeks or so, and for safty reasons, this is probably the setup I am going to go with.

All you guys have been very helpful... thanks
 

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I see.... I think I am understanding this now.... Hopefully I will be getting a trailer of my own here in a few weeks or so, and for safty reasons, this is probably the setup I am going to go with.

All you guys have been very helpful... thanks
how heavy do you plan on towing?

Garrett
 

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Discussion Starter #14
well the trailer itself will weight between 1900-2400 lbs depending on which of the two I choose... and it will be for vehicles... The heaviest I have squeezed on a U-Haul trailer as of yet was 4650lbs.... shhhh, don't tell them that....lol.... But that would be pushing the carrying limit if I do it on a regular basis.... AND I know me... and know that will not be the heaviest I ever pull....

The most I have pulled was with my old 1/2 ton '83 dodge... ball on the bumper, 6x12 flat bed trailer from Uhaul rated at only carrying 1700lbs.... was cleaning up a construction disaster and needed the trailer for a trip to the dump. after I unloaded, the tare slip said between the bed of my truck and the trailer, I tossed over 16,000 lbs of trash! Yeah the truck was soupy, the trailer was crying and I am a brave soul... but in my defense, I had no idea I was overloaded...LOL.... and basically, I am sure it would happen again....LOL...

I have a ragular reciever and if I understand this right, these setups are interchangable... so I will always have both... but for future safty's sake, I was looking into this setup as a way to avoid having another brain dead moment and loading 16k lbs on a 6klb hitch! LMAO:haha
 

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i dont think you would need a load distribution hitch for that. if anything, just throw on some airbags and you'll be good to go!

Garrett
 

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Discussion Starter #16
By Airbags I am assuming you are refering to the rear ened suspension?

Even with the large amount of weight, it does not pull it down very far in the rear, and it still handles fine, I was more concerned about the strength of the hitch itself. I have no fear my truck can handle whatever I throw at it, I would just hate to pull too hard on the hitch and compromise the integrity of it therefore possibly creating a problem down the road.

My friends who know me, know I am overly anal retentive about everything. I would rather have way to much, and go overboard then to come up short and run the risk, however slight it may be, of getting hurt, or hurting someone/something else.... y'all know what i mean?
 

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If the trailer+load weighs less than the truck, you should be fine.

Just make sure you have an appropriate amount of tongue weight.
20-25% of the towed weight is a good place to start...

If the trailer+load weighs 8,000lbs, you should have around 1600-2000lbs on the hitch.
If your truck sags a lot with that weight, a WD hitch will perform better than airbags with no WD hitch.
Considering they are about the same money (airbags vs WD hitch) I'd get the hitch first.

If you're going to tow with the bed full of heavy stuff, airbags would be a good idea (or Timbrens) but I'd still run a WD hitch.


BTW, if you choose not to run a WD hitch, stay away from hollow drawbars (the 2X2 portion should be a solid bar)
 

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Discussion Starter #18
If the trailer+load weighs less than the truck, you should be fine.

Just make sure you have an appropriate amount of tongue weight.
20-25% of the towed weight is a good place to start...

If the trailer+load weighs 8,000lbs, you should have around 1600-2000lbs on the hitch.
If your truck sags a lot with that weight, a WD hitch will perform better than airbags with no WD hitch.
Considering they are about the same money (airbags vs WD hitch) I'd get the hitch first.

If you're going to tow with the bed full of heavy stuff, airbags would be a good idea (or Timbrens) but I'd still run a WD hitch.


BTW, if you choose not to run a WD hitch, stay away from hollow drawbars (the 2X2 portion should be a solid bar)
See this is now where I am concerned even more.... Because according to the "sticker" on this hitch(factory setup) it says the carrying weight on the ball is 600 lbs... the max. trailer wieght is 6500lbs straught, and 15,000 lbs with WD..... unless I am misunderstanding something.... so by this line of reasoning... Either the carrying weight is wrong, or the max trailer wieght is wrong... know what I mean?
 

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My bad, I was thinking 5th wheels :bang

10-15% is OK for a ball hitch, and I don't think you'll have a problem at 6000lbs without a WD hitch.
 

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By Airbags I am assuming you are refering to the rear ened suspension?

Even with the large amount of weight, it does not pull it down very far in the rear, and it still handles fine, I was more concerned about the strength of the hitch itself. I have no fear my truck can handle whatever I throw at it, I would just hate to pull too hard on the hitch and compromise the integrity of it therefore possibly creating a problem down the road.

My friends who know me, know I am overly anal retentive about everything. I would rather have way to much, and go overboard then to come up short and run the risk, however slight it may be, of getting hurt, or hurting someone/something else.... y'all know what i mean?
dont worry, the hitch can handle it.





also, i thought that the load distribution hitch was more to help with sagging rear suspensions not weak hitches. think about it, a load distribution hitch doesnt really take away any stress.

Garrett
 
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