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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've got a leak in my egr cooler hose that I need to replace and i know I need to take out the turbo. How hard is it to take out the turbo? Are there any tricks to getting it done right, or things to look for? Thanks for the help.
BTW 04' F250
 

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Three bolts hold the turbo down to the mount, one on drivers side,one on passenger side front,passenger side back use an short extension to reach.
Remove air cleaner, channel clamp on exhaust downpipe, and y-pipe
Disconnect oil hose block side, unless you have new gasket for turbo side
Remove intercooler pipe
Can be done without pulling alternator but will need to be rotated to fit through, definitely wise to remove the electrical connector though
Really not that difficult
 

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Pic of the hidden bolt on the back side and the oil hose still attached
 

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I pull the alt bolts just because it saves fingers, with help putting the belt back on is easy by yourself I'd suggest leaving it on. Pic also kinda shows the mounting holes
 

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You can get full directions to remove and replace the turbo in the ford bible, and I think there is a sticky also, I will post it if I have time to find it good luck
 

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Make sure you pull your batt. cables. You might get a spark if you dontLOL
Turbo bolts are 10 mm, V-band clamps are 7/16" deep well as well as the intercooler clamps. undo vgt solenoid plug, oil fill tube spins off. Intake needs to come off. Flat head works or a 5/16 nut driver. 10mm for the oil line on top of the turbo, Never removed it from the block. The oil return just pops off and on. just rotate the turbo towards the passenger side when pulling it out. Little patience and it will be out. Ive done several and it only takes me about 30 minutes now so you should have it out within and hour and a half. Any more questions, let us know. Ryan. EDIT: I pull the map sensor off. its 3 10mm nuts on top and then it just pops off and then unplug and set aside.
 

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if its the first time the bolts are comming off there are a little harder...a quater in ratchet is your friend on that..just have to be a muscle man
 

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Damn right. Those are tough. Spray it down with some PB blast if possible.
 

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you dont need to remove turbo to change that hose all you need to do is cut the hose in half take the t 30 bolts out of the oil cooler were it attaches and remove the cover assembly slide old hose off and slid new one on
Drain the engine coolant. For additional information, refer to Section 303-03.
Loosen the clamps and remove the charge air cooler (CAC) intake pipe.
Cut the oil cooler-to-EGR cooler hose at an angle where shown.

Remove the 2 bolts and the EGR cooler supply port housing cover.
Remove the EGR cooler supply port housing and the part of the oil cooler-to-EGR cooler hose that is still attached.
Twist and pull the oil cooler-to-EGR cooler hose to remove it from the EGR cooler tube.

Rotate the oil cooler-to-EGR cooler hose 90 degrees (1/4-turn) and remove it from the EGR cooler supply port housing.

Installation

Clean and inspect the EGR cooler supply port housing O-ring seals. Install new O-ring seals if necessary.
Lubricate the inside of the new oil cooler-to-EGR cooler hose with clean engine coolant and slide it onto the EGR cooler tube far enough so it will not interfere with the installation of the EGR cooler supply port.
Make sure the dual index marks (flat edge) on the hose are facing up.

Lubricate the EGR cooler supply port housing O-ring seals with clean engine coolant and position the EGR cooler supply port on the engine.
NOTE: Use a commercially available Torx bit, such as Matco® BTX30B, or equivalent, and a torque adapter to tighten the EGR cooler supply port housing cover bolts.

Position the EGR cooler supply port housing cover and install the 2 bolts.
Calculate the correct torque wrench setting for the following torque. Refer to the Torque Wrench Adapter Formulas in the Appendix.
Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).

Slide the oil cooler-to-EGR cooler hose onto the EGR cooler supply port housing and rotate it 90 degrees (1/4-turn) until it locks in place.

Install the CAC intake pipe and tighten the clamps.
Tighten to 12 Nm (9 lb-ft).
Fill and bleed the engine cooling system. For additional information, refer to Section 303-03.


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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
cb44473, thanks for the info. Do you have any pics of what that looks like? Your post refers to section 303-03. Is that something I can access? Thanks again.
 

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EGR Cooler Supply Port Housing and Hose



Item Part Number Description
1 8592 Oil cooler-to-EGR cooler hose
2 W300022 EGR cooler supply port housing bolts
3 — EGR cooler supply port housing cover (part of 9P458)
4 — EGR cooler supply port housing (part of 9P458)

Removal

Drain the engine coolant. For additional information, refer to Section 303-03.
Loosen the clamps and remove the charge air cooler (CAC) intake pipe.
Cut the oil cooler-to-EGR cooler hose at an angle where shown.



Remove the 2 bolts and the EGR cooler supply port housing cover.
Remove the EGR cooler supply port housing and the part of the oil cooler-to-EGR cooler hose that is still attached.
Twist and pull the oil cooler-to-EGR cooler hose to remove it from the EGR cooler tube.



Rotate the oil cooler-to-EGR cooler hose 90 degrees (1/4-turn) and remove it from the EGR cooler supply port housing.



Installation

Clean and inspect the EGR cooler supply port housing O-ring seals. Install new O-ring seals if necessary.
Lubricate the inside of the new oil cooler-to-EGR cooler hose with clean engine coolant and slide it onto the EGR cooler tube far enough so it will not interfere with the installation of the EGR cooler supply port.
Make sure the dual index marks (flat edge) on the hose are facing up.



Lubricate the EGR cooler supply port housing O-ring seals with clean engine coolant and position the EGR cooler supply port on the engine.
NOTE: Use a commercially available Torx bit, such as Matco® BTX30B, or equivalent, and a torque adapter to tighten the EGR cooler supply port housing cover bolts.

Position the EGR cooler supply port housing cover and install the 2 bolts.
Calculate the correct torque wrench setting for the following torque. Refer to the Torque Wrench Adapter Formulas in the Appendix.
Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).




Slide the oil cooler-to-EGR cooler hose onto the EGR cooler supply port housing and rotate it 90 degrees (1/4-turn) until it locks in place.

Install the CAC intake pipe and tighten the clamps.
Tighten to 12 Nm (9 lb-ft).


really not that important to torque the bolts just make sure they are tight but not tight enough to strip aluminum
 
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