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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
First of all thanks for a warm welcome..


We all know we live with this coolant puking problem, some of us in stock form, mild form and specially those beating their motors with a 10lb maul!

EGR is the number one problem on the list, Ford designed the Exhaust gasses that get recirculated into your engine for a better enviroment to get cooled by an EGR cooler, the EGR cooler is only 1 3/4" thick. The exhaust gasses are getting so high the coolant is actually getting Flash boiled, remember this is the same coolant that is supposed to cool your engine down. My solution is to leave the stock EGR plug in the sensor, and block off the exhaust part of the system. We can start a "NEW" thread about HOW-TO plug your system if you guys want.

Second, I do recommend the switch from head bolts to Head studs, as the design of the 6.0 head only carries 10 MAIN bolts, and 5 smaller ones. Their pressure capacity from Factory is 195,000 PSI, they are NOT holding up, and stretching and causing the head in it's weak areas to actually lift upwards and seperating and losing contact with the engine deck surface. Cylinder Pressure will find the least restrictive point of exit, and you got it, it's finding your cooling passages in your head to leak cylinder compression into. This is causing blown head gaskets, warped heads and even engine decks! The solution "PERFORMANCE HEAD STUDS" with atleast a PSI of 245,000 or a stronger metal, like a grade H11.

When doing the upgrade make sure you trash your old head gaskets as they are no longer good. Also take the time to take your heads to a machine shop to get them checked for cracks, and warpage. Once you are ready to install purchase from Ford their NEW upgraded head gasket kit. Problem solved!

Another thing that is not helping is we purchase "CUSTOM" tunable boxes, but yet we let the tuner the the custom part, we need to speak with them and let them know what WE want. Like some tuners/modules peak your timing way too high, or place your PEAK HP at redline zones in your RPM range.

With this told, this has been my trial and error to finally say, This IS YOUR SOLUTION!

I hope this helps many, as I had to learn the hard way. Take this as a small manual of needed upgrades to think about before going HP crazy.


-X Marks The Spot! :agreed:
 

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Give that man another chance at the FASS!
 

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X and I have both been through the same situations with these motors. I have to agree with what he says fully. There are some guys out there making aftermarket head gaskets for the machines. That may replace the upgraded Ford ones. Good Post.
BUMP

:agreed: :Thumbup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Duke said:
Choke on my smoke,

Nice post. Thanks for the helpfull advice. :Thumbup:

BTW: Very nice numbers. What did you have to do in terms of mods to get there?
Thank you guys! Just trying to help out as alot of people are running into walls and getting frustrated and tossing out the 6.0L, This motor has SO MUCH potential, that I ran my times, with bolt on items. stock block, stock heads, stock turbo. Tell me what other motor that can do that?

Mods go as follow:
H11 metal grade Head Stud Kit
Custom Metal Head Gaskets
Eliminated EGR system
Custom Intercooler & Piping
High Flow Injectors
Custom Tuned Box stacked with a PDQ Fuel Volumizer
Upgraded Tranny Kit
NOS Wet System
4" downpipe w/ 4" exhaust NO muffler NO Kitty
Custom Airaid intake
Few Mods to the Stock Turbo :Thumbup:


All in All I have about $4500-$5000 invested TOPS!
Now compare the simple bolt-ons and the cheap price it took me to get those time slips, compared to other motors. I guess we still dont want to beleive the 6.0's potential!

-X
 

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Choke_On_My_Smoke said:
I ran my times, with bolt on items. stock block, stock heads, stock turbo. Tell me what other motor that can do that?

-X
I'll tell you one, all stock minus a programer, transwork, exhaust= 12's :evil: J/K with ya :)

My dad has an 05 550 thats bone stock. He works the crap outa it(tows plows ect.), has 8k so far. It will stay stock but what should I do to it to keep it happy? If I tell him he has to put studs in his so far ok motor with no problems he is going to tell me to pound sand. Are these EGR mods important and whats involved? Thanks BTW :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
ratlover said:
I'll tell you one, all stock minus a programer, transwork, exhaust= 12's :evil: J/K with ya :)

My dad has an 05 550 thats bone stock. He works the crap outa it(tows plows ect.), has 8k so far. It will stay stock but what should I do to it to keep it happy? If I tell him he has to put studs in his so far ok motor with no problems he is going to tell me to pound sand. Are these EGR mods important and whats involved? Thanks BTW :)

HEY! "SECURITY!!!!" "SECUURRITTY!!" Your not allowed in here!!! :roflmao:

LOL

Common on in and JOIN THE FUN!


-X
 

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LOL

So on a stock hard worked truck what should be done? I may have to do it incogneto since my dad will probably wonder what I'm tweaking on his truck and get worried. When he came out to the shop last time and asked what the blue bottle was that I was installing all I got was a head shake and he left......I dont think he thinks I'm right :roflmao:
 

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Choke_On_My_Smoke said:
Thank you guys! Just trying to help out as alot of people are running into walls and getting frustrated and tossing out the 6.0L, This motor has SO MUCH potential, that I ran my times, with bolt on items. stock block, stock heads, stock turbo. Tell me what other motor that can do that?

Mods go as follow:
H11 metal grade Head Stud Kit
Custom Metal Head Gaskets
Eliminated EGR system
Custom Intercooler & Piping
High Flow Injectors
Custom Tuned Box stacked with a PDQ Fuel Volumizer
Upgraded Tranny Kit
NOS Wet System
4" downpipe w/ 4" exhaust NO muffler NO Kitty
Custom Airaid intake
Few Mods to the Stock Turbo :Thumbup:


All in All I have about $4500-$5000 invested TOPS!
Now compare the simple bolt-ons and the cheap price it took me to get those time slips, compared to other motors. I guess we still dont want to beleive the 6.0's potential!

-X
your shooting a wet shot as in diesel into the intake with the nos,if so what psi is the diesel shot into the system at...seems like a good way to pop those pop rods..i had an 04 good truck,with an ats and several different chip combos,with a dry shot i was low to mid 500s and ran 12.8s on the strip...good post and info,dont exactly agree with every thing you said,the coolant deal is beacause the bottom of the egr is actually melting off and air can then get introduced into the coolant system,by fabricating a better bottom for the egr cooler these situation can be all together eliminated
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
ratlover said:
LOL

So on a stock hard worked truck what should be done? I may have to do it incogneto since my dad will probably wonder what I'm tweaking on his truck and get worried. When he came out to the shop last time and asked what the blue bottle was that I was installing all I got was a head shake and he left......I dont think he thinks I'm right :roflmao:
As long as you were installing the Blue bottle, and not taking sips from it!

:roflmao:


-X
 

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ISurvivedNMU said:
I can think of a lot of blue bottle that I would take a swig out of... But NOS is not one of them.....

How come propane seems like a thing from the past?
I think it's b/c NOS is less difficult & expensive to install than 'pane (although NOS costs more than 'pane). The bottle is so much smaller, and the output is les than half of NOS.

IOW NOS is smaller, lighter and delivers 2 or 3 x the power. propane also has that "safety factor" that scares some people.

'Pane is just a pain. LOL
 

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They are completely different things.

N2O is an oxidizer. Think turbo ect. in a bottle

Propane is a fuel. Think bigger injectors ect. in a tank

If you need more fuel add pane, if you need more air add N2O. Or better yet add a **** load of both!!!!
 

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So what should a stocker that gets worked be doing? Block it off? Nothing? Add a better plate???
 
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