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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
First of all thanks for a warm welcome..


We all know we live with this coolant puking problem, some of us in stock form, mild form and specially those beating their motors with a 10lb maul!

EGR is the number one problem on the list, Ford designed the Exhaust gasses that get recirculated into your engine for a better enviroment to get cooled by an EGR cooler, the EGR cooler is only 1 3/4" thick. The exhaust gasses are getting so high the coolant is actually getting Flash boiled, remember this is the same coolant that is supposed to cool your engine down. My solution is to leave the stock EGR plug in the sensor, and block off the exhaust part of the system. We can start a "NEW" thread about HOW-TO plug your system if you guys want.

Second, I do recommend the switch from head bolts to Head studs, as the design of the 6.0 head only carries 10 MAIN bolts, and 5 smaller ones. Their pressure capacity from Factory is 195,000 PSI, they are NOT holding up, and stretching and causing the head in it's weak areas to actually lift upwards and seperating and losing contact with the engine deck surface. Cylinder Pressure will find the least restrictive point of exit, and you got it, it's finding your cooling passages in your head to leak cylinder compression into. This is causing blown head gaskets, warped heads and even engine decks! The solution "PERFORMANCE HEAD STUDS" with atleast a PSI of 245,000 or a stronger metal, like a grade H11.

When doing the upgrade make sure you trash your old head gaskets as they are no longer good. Also take the time to take your heads to a machine shop to get them checked for cracks, and warpage. Once you are ready to install purchase from Ford their NEW upgraded head gasket kit. Problem solved!

Another thing that is not helping is we purchase "CUSTOM" tunable boxes, but yet we let the tuner the the custom part, we need to speak with them and let them know what WE want. Like some tuners/modules peak your timing way too high, or place your PEAK HP at redline zones in your RPM range.

With this told, this has been my trial and error to finally say, This IS YOUR SOLUTION!

I hope this helps many, as I had to learn the hard way. Take this as a small manual of needed upgrades to think about before going HP crazy.


-X Marks The Spot! :agreed:
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Duke said:
Choke on my smoke,

Nice post. Thanks for the helpfull advice. :Thumbup:

BTW: Very nice numbers. What did you have to do in terms of mods to get there?
Thank you guys! Just trying to help out as alot of people are running into walls and getting frustrated and tossing out the 6.0L, This motor has SO MUCH potential, that I ran my times, with bolt on items. stock block, stock heads, stock turbo. Tell me what other motor that can do that?

Mods go as follow:
H11 metal grade Head Stud Kit
Custom Metal Head Gaskets
Eliminated EGR system
Custom Intercooler & Piping
High Flow Injectors
Custom Tuned Box stacked with a PDQ Fuel Volumizer
Upgraded Tranny Kit
NOS Wet System
4" downpipe w/ 4" exhaust NO muffler NO Kitty
Custom Airaid intake
Few Mods to the Stock Turbo :Thumbup:


All in All I have about $4500-$5000 invested TOPS!
Now compare the simple bolt-ons and the cheap price it took me to get those time slips, compared to other motors. I guess we still dont want to beleive the 6.0's potential!

-X
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
ratlover said:
I'll tell you one, all stock minus a programer, transwork, exhaust= 12's :evil: J/K with ya :)

My dad has an 05 550 thats bone stock. He works the crap outa it(tows plows ect.), has 8k so far. It will stay stock but what should I do to it to keep it happy? If I tell him he has to put studs in his so far ok motor with no problems he is going to tell me to pound sand. Are these EGR mods important and whats involved? Thanks BTW :)

HEY! "SECURITY!!!!" "SECUURRITTY!!" Your not allowed in here!!! :roflmao:

LOL

Common on in and JOIN THE FUN!


-X
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
ratlover said:
LOL

So on a stock hard worked truck what should be done? I may have to do it incogneto since my dad will probably wonder what I'm tweaking on his truck and get worried. When he came out to the shop last time and asked what the blue bottle was that I was installing all I got was a head shake and he left......I dont think he thinks I'm right :roflmao:
As long as you were installing the Blue bottle, and not taking sips from it!

:roflmao:


-X
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
I still belive the coolant passes through the EGR cooler were the problem lyes at, not the ACTUAL Valve itself, even if you weld the ends shut, the exhaust gas has to still pass the EGR cooler to get cooled before entering the vavle and then the intake. If the exhaust gasses are still flowing through your EGR cooler, then so is your coolant, it's still gonna make the coolant flash boil.

-X
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
FFpsd said:
Choke,

You said get the new upgraded gaskets from ford. My queshtion is I know a guy in the Delray Beach area who is making or soon to be cooper ones would those be better than fords new UPGRADED ones?

Thanks,
FFpsd
I would wait, and have him test trial them before buying them, I know someone who is also making them, but has some bugs to work out, I would wait if a performance gasket is what you are interested in. Let your freinds try it out for some time, before you place them in your truck. I posted about my injectors and the company I bought them from after I had them in for about 2 months and made sure they made power, just so no one would get burned.


-X
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
I will be showin a step by step with pics onhow to do it, if cant mkt with pics, later on today I will make the post with exact instructions on how it was done in my truck, and others DJ has done. including his very own Race truck "Mini Me"...


Fair?

-X
 
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