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Install of HTT's stage3 kit for HX35, also available for HY35 and WH1C
(Wrench or socket size in parentheses)
What this kit is: upgrades your existing 54 or 56 mm intake impeller to a 60mm one.
What you’d expect to gain from it: #1 reason is lower EGT’s, it’ll better support up to 350 hp, and provide a little more air for higher rpm. If you drive without a silencer ring this will be a little louder, but it’s not ear piercing.
We'll start by pulling off the intake hose from the turbo. Then remove the band clamp from the exhaust side. Now remove the pressure line (5/8 & 3/4"or 16&19mm), return line (10mm) and mounting bolts (15mm) and it's ready to come out. You may have to remove the air filter box if you still have one.
Before taking it apart, it may be a good idea to mark the exhaust & intake housing in relation to the turbo body to ease bolting it back onto the truck.
You may need to spray penetrating oil on the bolts to get the turbine housing off. Now take off the 4 bolts (13mm) for the exhaust housing, you may have trouble with one of them. Take out that one as far as you can, then some wiggling or gentle hits with a soft blow hammer, try to get that housing off. Be careful, because at the last second it'll pop off and you don't want to damage the impeller. Once it starts coming out you should be able to get that last bolt out, then the housing will come off.
Now, a big snap ring around the outer edge of the compressor housing holds on the intake side on the ’35, and a screw type clamp for a WH1C. I had to use channel locks, or 'water pumps' to stretch across the tabs on the ring. It wiggles off much easier than the exhaust side. Now a socket on the intake impeller/compressor wheel nut (12mm), and one on the exhaust impeller nut (13/16”or 20mm) and take off the nut on the intake side (don’t forget it's reverse thread). The impeller slides right off, then there's a mental note to make. As you take off the compressor wheel you'll see how it's inset in the body of the turbo. The outer edge of the little lip is what needs to be machined out to accept the bigger wheel. You can also send yours in to HTT to have them machine it for this, or do the whole stage3 kit.
Next is to slide out the shaft by pulling the exhaust impeller, because it gets in the way of the machinist. It’s now ready to take to the shop to have that inset groove enlarged to 3.420”, which is .030 larger than the wheel. You might want to plug up the holes where the shaft was to keep some of the machining shavings out. This is also the time to inspect for wear. Mine had blue spots on the seal plate and thrust collar, and I had to order new ones. It also may be a good idea to have the shop check the shaft to make sure it’s straight

Once you get the body back from the shop, you can start by cleaning the inside where the shaft was. Even if it was plugged up it wont hurt to err on the cautious side. WD40 is cheap and effective here. Use liberal amounts to flush all the particles out. Now put a little engine oil on the shaft and inside the body, and slide it in. Add the new stage3 impeller and torque the nut according to the nut you have. There’s different specs, the 6 point nut goes to 120 inch pounds, and the 12 point goes to 100 inch pounds. Then, install the exhaust housing, retainers, and 4 bolts. Leave the bolts a little loose in case you need to clock it during reassembly.

Start out by putting the big snap ring over the top of the body. Put the new Stage3compressor housing (lined up as the old one was) on the compressor body. Then as an assembly, flip it over so the inlet is facing the floor. Grab the pliers used to remove the snap ring; it’s going to be a fight to compress it to fit inside the lip of the compressor housing. I had to use my knee to push down on the body while my left hand held the snap ring down. My right hand was trying to get the snap ring on before it popped off the pliers. This is where I got really frustrated; it took me a good 45 min. to get it together. That was the hardest part. Just assemble it like it was taken off, and you’re ready to fire it up. Check for leaks and all that good stuff, then go for a spin.

Pic#1 is the stage3 impeller on the right and the stock on the left.
Pic#2 is after the shaft comes out throught the exhaust side. A peek at the journal bearing.
Pic#3 is what's behind the seal plate(mine was burnt from making contact because of a bent shaft)
pic#4 is after I got the turbo body back from the machine shop with its new inset surface of 3.420"
 

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Super Moderator
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Discussion Starter #2
Pic#1 is with my new seal plate and thrust collar, ready for the new Stage3 impeller.
pic#2 is the impeller mounted and exhaust housing on, ready to put on the compressor housing.
pic#3 is up close of the stage3 compressor housing to note there's no provision for a silencer ring.
pic#4 is the under side of the compressor housing & the slot where the big snap ring goes
 

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Super Moderator
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The finished product:
 

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Carolina Boy
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nice write up
 
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Carolina Boy
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i'm looking to do this wih my new turbo
 

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off to another home
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does it need to be balanced after reassembly?

Garrett
 

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Carolina Boy
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ha ha i need to do both so i can have some money
 

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TDG Mafia Goon
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I wasn't even commenting on Classifieds. Maybe I need to move the other scoot and trailer.
 

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Let it rip tator chip!
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So this kit is gonna do lower EGT’s, it’ll better support up to 350 hp, and provide a little more air for higher rpm. Is there any more benefits from it and where could i get one?
 

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Let it rip tator chip!
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910 Posts
So this kit is gonna do lower EGT’s, it’ll better support up to 350 hp, and provide a little more air for higher rpm. Is there any more benefits from it and where could i get one?
 
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