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Discussion Starter #1
This is more of a general question but I'm posting it here because of the truck year. On the one ton trucks has anyone had a reoccuring problem with the hubs failing? I just repaired my hubs 3 months ago and one side just failed and the other side is looking like it is about to do the same thing. Any help or advice is excellent. Thanks guys.
 

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Repaired?

New bearings? or something else?

The hubs will run 500k if kept clean and adjusted to .006 clearance.

The service life is short when knocked off and on with a chisel instead of a socket, I think mostly because the shops that use a chisel will also lay the bearings in the sand.

keydl
 

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Discussion Starter #3
3 Months ago I had taken the truck out wheelin and the water took care of the grease and ruined the bearings pretty good.

Yeah it got everything new springs and bearings along with the cover oring. everything else was cleaned up good. All packed together with grease.

The nuts were never taken off with a chisel I made sure there was a socket for that.

What do you mean by adjusted to .006 clearance?
 

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With a dial indicator the movement of the hub and spindle with the locknuts set should have clearance - .003 to .015 if I remember - but the best for me has been .006. That was the measurement that was in range for all the specs that I could find at the time.

After you count the threads on a few spindles the amount to turn the nut is usually 1 or 2 tries.

Did you pack the seal with grease? For 2 wheelers a light coat, for 4 wheelers a finger full of grease at the seal surface start so it piles up into the seal lip and the space between the lips filled. Make sure that you have the correct seal for the axle dia - some are close but won't keep the water out.

The stub axle bearing inside the spindle may cause seal leaks.

keydl
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Which seal are you talking about for the grease? Because the only place I've seen grease is inside that whole hub assembly
 

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There is a seal on the inside of the spindle, as well as a bearing. If they are not working the water will run in and if they get more than a little warm the grease will run out.

Vibration on turn is a sign that the bearing is not well and by that time the seal is normally gone.

Can I advocate a torque wrench for the spindle bolts?

keydl
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Well my locknuts had come loose and ruined the outer bearing welding the inner race to the spindle. Not a great experience while driving I might add.

New spindle and spindle bearings kit on the way should be here tomorrow. Along with the newer lock nut style, as i was told they work alot better but you need a new socket.

Any idea on a torque value for those spindle lock nuts?

On the movement of the spindle/hub Im unclear on what your saying.
 

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When the inner nut is put on it is torqued to about 50 #ft while rotating the hub to make things move into operating position, It is then backed off and run up to 'contact' the point that preload starts. Back off 1/6 turn, add the lock washer and torque the lock nut to 50-70 #ft. Measure the clearance with a dial indicator - hub to spindle - pull out and push in not up and down.

While learning I set mine to contact - no clearance, no preload - 20 k miles looked like 100 k and had .004 clearance and no effect on the big tire problems.

keydl
 

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Discussion Starter #9
What I'm having a hard time grasping is rotating the hub and this clearance

Is it putting the first spindle nut on, running it down to 50# in torque, setting the lockout hub device in and turning it as if your "locking" the hubs and finding that 'contact' point and then backing the nut off and then putting the locking tab in and other spindle nut on and torquing it down.?

Thanks for the patience :)
 

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I have seen 2 types of nuts - a pair with a seperating washer and a nylock with a lock key.

Nylock is easy set the dial indicator on the rotor to indicate the end of the spindle. If the rotor has slack to the hub just hold it with a nut. Then you adjust to .006. The 50 #ft torque is to seat bearings in the bore and the rotation is to cause the rollers to ride in the least space. Only after the bearing is set do you put the freewheel hub on.

Two nuts is a little different - there is slack in the threads of around .006 to .010 and that has to be added to the first nut setting so that when the lock nut is torqued the clearance is right.

Wrong clearance on a big truck can raise the temp to over 200 F from 120 F normal or worming across the tread if it is to loose.

keydl
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I just still curious about where this "clearance" is because I've never heard of anything like it until now. We all learn something new right. Is there any other article or website that talks about this because I cant find anything now that I'm looking.
 

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Manufactures web site.

Meritor uses solid spaced 'perload' unit bearings.

I went through the axle manufactures sheets about 30 years ago and the clearances listed varied a lot but .006 fit all that I had available. I was working for a farm equipment dealer at the time.

keydl
 
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Discussion Starter #13
Cool, I'll be doing a little diggin. Also asked my dad about this and he knows about it. :) Thanks for the help and time answering
 
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