The Diesel Garage banner

1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Senior Member
Joined
·
748 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I am going to order a DP tuner chip but already have turbo surge. So I want to upgrade to relieve this problem. Jody said to get an ATS ported shroud, but I thought if I could get a new turbo at a good price I would go that route. I do not understand these .84 and 1.00 numbers I am hearing about and then I also hear talk of an ATS housing with an exhaust housing using these numbers. Does a new turbo come with this exhaust housing they are talking about? Do I want a turbo with .84 or 1.00. I'll have to admit I am a bit confused. Can you guys give me the basics of what this is all about.
I would really appreciate it as I want to make an upgrade purchase but want to make it a final purchase and not find out I need something esle. Thanks in advance.
 

·
Senior Member
Joined
·
6,337 Posts
.84 and 1.00 are the aspect ratios of the housings, wether it be a exhaust or compressor housing. A .84 exhaust housing will spool quicker but the drive pressures will be higher, and max boost MAY suffer. A 1.00 exhaust housing will spool somewhat slower but the drive pressures will be lower. In your case you need to think about how far you want to go... Are you going to want injectors later? Nos? Dual HPOP's??? Thats the thing... If your going to go farther then a chip then get a turbo, if not a ATS housing will do the trick! Should have been on the truck stock...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
ATS housings go on pretty easily, most important tools are a 8mm or 5/16 12 point socket and a swivel. The stock compressor housing on mine was a 1.0 A/R, and the exhaust is a .84 wastegated model. Ill eventually go to a 1.15 A/R non wastegated model, and get a new pedestal to eliminate my EBPV.
 

·
Senior Member
Joined
·
1,921 Posts
D-man first you need to decide how far you are wanting to go and how much money you want to spend. The ATS compressor housing is a bandaid for the stock turbo. If you really want to get an upgrade go for an upgraded drop in turbo. You can get an HTPS for a bit cheaper than you can get a ball bearing for but the ball bearing turbo is going to spool up a little quicker. Both turbos are pretty much the same performance wise other than the spool up will be slightly slower on the HTPS. If you plan on a chip either of these would be a good choice. If you plan on ever doing anything more like injectors then I'd say it's a minimum.

The 1.0 or .84 is the A/R or Area/Radius of the housing. It is the ratio between the cross sectional area (area) to the center line of the volute of the housing to the center of the turo shaft (radius). The smaller the number the smaller the area in the volute and therefore it increases the velocity of the air hitting the turbine blades making it spin faster quicker. The draw back to this is the smaller area creates more restriction at higher volumes of exhaust gases causeing excessive drive (or back pressure) and it causes overspooling of the turbo resulting in premature turbo failure. And the reverse is true fo the larger the number the larger the area. This slows down the exhaust gases hitting the turbine wheel so it takes longer to get it spooling. However at higher exhaust volumes such as high rpm WOT situations it doesn't become a bottle neck causeing the above mentioned problems. Now if you take that smaller housing it will make the turbo spool fast and couple it with a wastegate the wastegate will bypass the excess pressure past the turbo. Therefore you kind of get the best of both worlds. You get the quick spool up and you relive the excess pressure on top. This makes the set up MUCH more tuneable for the desired situations.

The smaller housings generally work really well in daily driven vehicles and for people who tow a lot that need that low end grunt and quick throttle response and driveability. The larger housings such for response but work good on the top end for racing and sled pulling.
 

·
Senior Member
Joined
·
6,337 Posts
gtspowerstroke said:
D-man first you need to decide how far you are wanting to go and how much money you want to spend. The ATS compressor housing is a bandaid for the stock turbo. If you really want to get an upgrade go for an upgraded drop in turbo. You can get an HTPS for a bit cheaper than you can get a ball bearing for but the ball bearing turbo is going to spool up a little quicker. Both turbos are pretty much the same performance wise other than the spool up will be slightly slower on the HTPS. If you plan on a chip either of these would be a good choice. If you plan on ever doing anything more like injectors then I'd say it's a minimum.

The 1.0 or .84 is the A/R or Area/Radius of the housing. It is the ratio between the cross sectional area (area) to the center line of the volute of the housing to the center of the turo shaft (radius). The smaller the number the smaller the area in the volute and therefore it increases the velocity of the air hitting the turbine blades making it spin faster quicker. The draw back to this is the smaller area creates more restriction at higher volumes of exhaust gases causeing excessive drive (or back pressure) and it causes overspooling of the turbo resulting in premature turbo failure. And the reverse is true fo the larger the number the larger the area. This slows down the exhaust gases hitting the turbine wheel so it takes longer to get it spooling. However at higher exhaust volumes such as high rpm WOT situations it doesn't become a bottle neck causeing the above mentioned problems. Now if you take that smaller housing it will make the turbo spool fast and couple it with a wastegate the wastegate will bypass the excess pressure past the turbo. Therefore you kind of get the best of both worlds. You get the quick spool up and you relive the excess pressure on top. This makes the set up MUCH more tuneable for the desired situations.

The smaller housings generally work really well in daily driven vehicles and for people who tow a lot that need that low end grunt and quick throttle response and driveability. The larger housings such for response but work good on the top end for racing and sled pulling.

Thank you for the correction! No really... I knew I could learn from you. Now go get some more gauges...:poke: :Thumbup: LOL
 

·
Senior Member
Joined
·
1,921 Posts
CSIPSD said:
Thank you for the correction! No really... I knew I could learn from you. Now go get some more gauges...:poke: :Thumbup: LOL
Naa. I got all the gauges I NEED. And I don't need to make my truck look like one of those little ricers driving around that think they're cool becaue they made their interior look like a cocpit with a bunch of redundant gauges so they get the same readings any direction they look. :poke: :poke: :pointlaugh :pointlaugh
 

·
Senior Member
Joined
·
748 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
gtspowerstroke said:
D-man first you need to decide how far you are wanting to go and how much money you want to spend. The ATS compressor housing is a bandaid for the stock turbo. If you really want to get an upgrade go for an upgraded drop in turbo. You can get an HTPS for a bit cheaper than you can get a ball bearing for but the ball bearing turbo is going to spool up a little quicker. Both turbos are pretty much the same performance wise other than the spool up will be slightly slower on the HTPS. If you plan on a chip either of these would be a good choice. If you plan on ever doing anything more like injectors then I'd say it's a minimum.

The 1.0 or .84 is the A/R or Area/Radius of the housing. It is the ratio between the cross sectional area (area) to the center line of the volute of the housing to the center of the turo shaft (radius). The smaller the number the smaller the area in the volute and therefore it increases the velocity of the air hitting the turbine blades making it spin faster quicker. The draw back to this is the smaller area creates more restriction at higher volumes of exhaust gases causeing excessive drive (or back pressure) and it causes overspooling of the turbo resulting in premature turbo failure. And the reverse is true fo the larger the number the larger the area. This slows down the exhaust gases hitting the turbine wheel so it takes longer to get it spooling. However at higher exhaust volumes such as high rpm WOT situations it doesn't become a bottle neck causeing the above mentioned problems. Now if you take that smaller housing it will make the turbo spool fast and couple it with a wastegate the wastegate will bypass the excess pressure past the turbo. Therefore you kind of get the best of both worlds. You get the quick spool up and you relive the excess pressure on top. This makes the set up MUCH more tuneable for the desired situations.

The smaller housings generally work really well in daily driven vehicles and for people who tow a lot that need that low end grunt and quick throttle response and driveability. The larger housings such for response but work good on the top end for racing and sled pulling.

Don't new turbo's come with wastgates? Can I use the factory wastegate?
I will probably not be doing any more perf. mods other than a chip. So, I will probably go the .84 wastegated route. But, If I were to find a 1.00 for a good price, would I be happy with that one also? I want to get what will work for me but I also don't want to spend more than I need to so I am going to shop for some deals.
Hence, back to my original ?, would the ATS housing be enough in your opinion, just to save some bucks? Thanks again for you help, it is much appreciated!
 

·
Senior Member
Joined
·
748 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
What do you think of the Turbonetics turbo and what size housing does that have? I found a brand new one for 800 dollars, if it is still avail.
Thanks again.
 

·
Senior Member
Joined
·
1,921 Posts
I don't know a whole lot about the Turbonetics turbo but from what I hear of it it sounds pretty decent. I think it comes with a 1.0 turbine housing on it. That housing would probably work just fine for you. A .84 housing WITH the wastegate might work very well for you if you especially if you are more concerned with low to mid range power and drivability. If you can pick up a new one for $800 I'd probably go that route.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,870 Posts
You can get either housing for the TN.
In fact, the stock 84 should fit on it, if I'm not mistaken.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
424 Posts
LocoMotion said:
You can get either housing for the TN.
In fact, the stock 84 should fit on it, if I'm not mistaken.

You can bolt on a stock housing, but it will not fit over the larger turbine wheel.......mine are custom machined to fit. FYI
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top