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TDG MAFIA MEMBER #71
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I am going to remove my injectors and install the new, I could use any info and tricks or tips...........:Thumbup: :thanks:
 

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Make sure you pull the plugs for the oil rails under the valve covers. They take a 1/8" alen wrench to get out. Get something to suck all the oil out of the cylenders so you don't hydrolock it. After you get the injectors back in leave the forward most oil rail plug out and start cranking. Crank for 30 seconds or so at a time and let it sit for a bit. I like to assemble some, crank some assemble some more etc. When you see oil start comming out the plug hole stick the plug back in. Usually if you crank 3 or 4 times for 30 seconds or so at a time it will fire right up when you try to start it. I usually just jump the starter relay with the key off that way it's not trying to fire when I'm doing my cycles. Don't use a hammer to install the injectors. Lube the o-rings up real good and they should slide in. The last little bit they go in kind of hard so if you can't get them in all the way by hand hook the hold down over the bolt that you leave in and use it as a lever to push the injector the rest of the way in. Something thick and slik like STP oil treatment seems to work best for installing them. I usually use syncut which is a seal lubricant that Stanadyne makes but the only place I know of to get it is a fuel shop that deals with Stanadyne stuff so it might be kind of hard to find if you don't have a fuel shop close by.
 

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TDG MAFIA MEMBER #71
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Discussion Starter #3
Should I pull them all and then install the new ones or install one at a time as I pull the old ones?
 

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Doesn't really matter. If you pull the back two first being that is the lowest point (unless you have the truck pointing down a hill when you pull them) most of the fuel and oil will go in those holes.
 

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What I do is one bank at a time. Start the truck up after you have done one bank and than move to the other side. If you do both at the same it can take a real long time to get the air out of the oil and start the truck.
 

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Just do them all at the same time... Here are some of the best directions I have used... Geoff likes to do it by the book but if you just remove the back two injectors first, everything will drain back to there. Then remove all the GP's and turn over a few times by hand... Then install injectors and turn over again with the starter... Bump it... bump it... bump it... (make sure to stick the VC over the valves with a bolt or two... or oiley mess)...

Read here...http://www.beansdieselperformance.com/Injectorinstall.htm
 

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Yeah if you crank it with the glow plugs out and put a valve cover on it make sure to put a couple bolts in it. That stuff comes shooting out of there hard! It will blow a valve cover right off and make one hell of a mess if there is much oil in the cylender and you just let 'er crank!
 

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I have the stains on the roof of my shop to prove it...LOL
 

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I am a big fan of removing one and in the same breath installing the new one. That way not as much fuel and oil leak into the motor. Plus I had no air in the lines after we did mine. Then just work your way around.

Make sure you get that fuel line to help take out the glow plugs... that deep socket tends to get stuck in there.

I think we cranked the motor over 8-10 times by hand and then did it a few times with the key...before the glow plugs were reinstalled. Gets everything out of the system..
 

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TDG MAFIA MEMBER #71
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Discussion Starter #10
What size fuel line.........
 

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laysonw said:
I am a big fan of removing one and in the same breath installing the new one. That way not as much fuel and oil leak into the motor. Plus I had no air in the lines after we did mine. Then just work your way around.

Make sure you get that fuel line to help take out the glow plugs... that deep socket tends to get stuck in there.

I think we cranked the motor over 8-10 times by hand and then did it a few times with the key...before the glow plugs were reinstalled. Gets everything out of the system..
You must be super fast! If you can get the new injector in in about .00001 seconds then you MIGHT not get much fuel in the cylender but if you take much more than about a second to get it back in it's already to late.
 

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We bought an air operated brake bleeder from the local NAPA and installed a piece of 3/16" Brake line into the rubber hose and hose clamped it. Then pull all of the injectors out in whatever order you chose to. Install the brake line in the hole, push the trigger on the bleeder tool, and start sucking. :bounce: That way you can make sure that you get all of the FUEL and oil out. You get whats sitting on top of the piston and whats in the fuel bowl. It may be a little more complicated than just removing your glow plugs but probably just about as time consuming. Also food for thought: Who wants to roll over their engine with Fuel and oil filled in the cylinders and then push that FUEL and oil into the CRANKCASE??? :shrug: Fuel dilution sucks. It may cost a little more ($89.95) to have that tool laying around, but IF you ever have to pull an injector again, you will have it.

Another tool that we used in the same way is a marine oil changer from the local carquest. works the same way and it uses battery power instead of shop air. Works the same and a bit cheaper ($25.00)

Just my .02
 

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Just follow the directions in the link I posted... Easy cheese... well you know the rest...
 

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I've actually got a power brake bleeder that I use as well. Works great! I've also got a small steel tube used for setting fork oil level on motorcycles that I attach to the hose so that it's easier to get it in there where you want it.

I'll second the fuel in the oil dilution thing. That's the big reason I hate pulling the glow plugs to get the fuel and oil out of the cylenders. I guess if you just figure in an oil change after ward it's not a big deal but I don't want to have to change my oil if I just did not to long ago when I pull the injectors out.
 

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TDG MAFIA MEMBER #71
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Discussion Starter #17
Not a big deal changing the oil, I was going to change it anyway.
 

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gtspowerstroke said:
You must be super fast! If you can get the new injector in in about .00001 seconds then you MIGHT not get much fuel in the cylender but if you take much more than about a second to get it back in it's already to late.
It works great. one hand pulls the injector and the other has one ready and lubed up to go in. It is all in one shot. I am not saying it eliminates all the oil and fuel but it reduces the amount that goes into the motor. We didn't seem to have any air in the lines after... It made sense to me instead of pulling all the injectors and letting them drain into the motor.

I just know it worked great for me. As for the fuel line....I can't remember the size...but it fits perfectly over the glow plug. I am sure someone on here knows the size...

good luck,
Steven
 

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TDG MAFIA MEMBER #71
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Discussion Starter #19
Well tonight after work I got the VC's, gasket's UVC wiring harness and the rear most injector in each bank and glow plugs out. Should I replace the glow plugs while I am in their? Also should I get new O-rings for the gallery plugs? Also when I was removing the wiring harness plug from the injector a few of the small black zip ties that hold all of the wires together broke off, I found the biggest part of the zip tie but not all of it, will this hurt any thing? I also bought a vaccum pump to get most of the oil out of the holes. I did clean the VC's up and put one bolt on them for tonight, I hope to finish tomorrow or Monday.
 

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Unless the o-rings are messed up you shouldn't need to replace them though it is never a bad idea. If the glow plugs have a lot of miles on them it wouldn't be a bad idea to replace those as well.
 
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