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Discussion Starter #1
I have a chance to buy some new 75 hp nozels for $150. I was thinking about getting some RV 275 injectors because they are good on fuel mileage. What are the pros and cons on the jammers vs the 275s?
Thanks
Cory
 

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I don't know anything about the 275's but, the 75/150 nozzles I have on my truck, I installed the nozzles before my chip and the nozzles made an unreal difference, I had no idea that they would make my truck come alive like they did. I have had no problems at all with my nozzles or injectors they have been on the truck for 3 months, I put them in myself also, it was way easier than I thought it was going to be.
 

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The rv275's will be a cleaner cooler running injertor than the jammer tips. Plus if you went with the 275's you don't need to get them tested like you would if you just used nozzles.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
why do you have to get them tested? What is the downside to the jammers?
 

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They (they being people that know more about this than I do) say that when you put the nozzles in you should have them tested to make sure that they get enough pressure to "pop" correctly to deliver the fuel into the cylinder the way that they supposed to. I think? I'm sure someone will have more detailed & better info than this.
However when I put mine in I decided that I would take that chance. I didn't have mine tested everything works fine.... But don't take my word for it, I'm just speaking from personal exp.

As far as downsides they say that the jammers run hotter, I have the prob now that when the quadzilla is set on "3" my egt gauge pegs 1600 @ wot until I let off, I dont know if the nozzles are a major part or not.... But I'm still happy with mine, however I have never had any others in my truck.
 

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You want your injectors to "pop" off at the same pressure so your engine will run smooth. As for the jammers, there arn't made a well as some of the others, i.e. spray pattern vs. amount of fuel. The jammers will get you the fuel your looking for but unlike the 275's with a better spray pattern you will notice more smoke and higher EGT's with the jammers. IMO get the 275's
 

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I agree, I have stage III, they run pretty hot and smoke more then I would like. I will be changing them down the road. If you are looking for mileage I would go with the 275's
 

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My friend and I installed some stage 3 nozzle tips in his truck and they seemed to run fine, so he decided to let it be and just run it. Later down the road about 6 months, he had them pop tested and 3 were out of spec. Since then, it runs smoother, and seems to get better milage then before they had had the pop pressures reset. The vendor he purchased them from said that they would be fine without being pop tested, however, I would never install another set without doing it.

Me personally, I run the Rv275's. They're a great little injector. Not too smokey, but some if I want it. I noticed about 3-4mpg difference on the highway with them too. If I drove nice and around 60-65 I can now get around 23 Vs. 19 with stockers, and if I drive 80ish I get around 20mpg Vs. 17.

I'd recommend the Rv personally, or a mach series injector if you're looking for a little more power than the RV has to offer. Nozzle tips are only worth it for the price, and you get what you pay for IMO.
Sean
 

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How much did it cost to get them tested, what did it you have to do and what did his truck act like when they were out of spec? You got me thinking now!
 

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His truck seemed pretty normal, it had a touch louder knock rattle whatever you want to call it, at idle. And if you would get on it hard, it felt like there was a little hesitation but hardly noticable. Once they got tested and set as necessary it ran a lot smoother. The thing is, even your stock nozzles could be out of spec. and running rough and so when you switch, you don't notice any difference. If an injector is popping too low, especially with larger nozzles, proper atomization is hard to achieve and it will lead to an even hotter, smokier burn, with less power. If its too far out, it could cause more serious trouble, although not likely.

I think it cost him $6 a piece to have tested and $18 for the ones that needed to be reset or something like that.
Sean
 
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