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Junior Member
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Discussion Starter #1
Have a 90 F250 wit 7.3 IDI. Had it for about 7 months, Did lots of basic drive train work and body work but engine was running so I left it alone. Was told the rear tank leaked when I got it so I never usedd it. Eventually dropped the rear tank and replaced it, usedit for a bit but got into a habit of relying on the front tank. Decided to try the reartank yesterday, engine was warm, just put fuel in both tanks, hit the switch and engine started to die, flipped back to the front tank and engine died. Was close to home so I pulled it home with my Dad's truck. Blead every thing as your supposed to. Switch still set on fron tank. Engine fires rite up, runs strong for a few seconds then dies, it will do this repeatedly. Blead all the injectos several times. Can't figure this one out. Any help?
 

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TDG MAFIA
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730 Posts
Have a buddy or your wife or kids come out and give you a hand with this. Crawl under your truck by the fuel tank selector valve and have one of them turn on the key and flip the switch. If you hear it click its working, if not its not working. Let us know if it works or not then we will go from there trouble shooting.
 

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Junior Member
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Discussion Starter #3
Well we checkd it and it does not click. The factory replacement valves is 300 bucks the generick aftermarket is 50 but will require fuel lin and electrical modification. I assum:helpe theres no way to repair these.:bawl:
 

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Junior Member
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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks a bunch for your insight to this point. We removed the selector valve and ran the electrical and mechanical tests as descrideb in an old Frod service manual I have for that year vehicle. It was determined that the selector valve had a dead short in it and was allowing fuel to leave the front tank but not return. The book stated that the valve is motor operated and not a solenoid valve such as the one on the injection pump. With that piece of information an being positive that the existing valve was not functioning I figured I had nothing to loose. I drilled the rivets out that held the valve together, decifered how the motor controlled the position of the valve plungers, manually adjusted the valve to be open on the front tank and put it back together using some stainless steel machine screws. Installed the valve back into the truck after a trip to the dealer for a few replacement clips that Ford uses on there fuel lines and the truck started right up and runs fine. This will do for now until I scavange a functioning switch from one of the local bone yards so I can have both tanks working again. I really did not want to use the aftermarket switch since all of the fuel lines and wiring would have to be changed and it simply was not in the budget for the 300 bucks ford wants for one. Thanks again for pointing me in that direction. :thumbsup
 
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