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Loves Jet Noise
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Took these pictures today of a 2000 Pete 379's electrical/fuse panel and noticed a lot of corrosion. I do not remember the Pete 378 that I once drove having this issue.

Is this common or a bigger underlying problem with the electrical panel?

Also, there is a leaking fuel line fitting and was also wondering if this is normal? Also can some tell me what exactly this fuel line is?

Thanks for the help.
 

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Premium Member
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looks like it needs a good spay of WD40 and a scrub brush. did that truck see alot of Midwest/eastcoast winters?
 

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Senior Member
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this happens when they leak around the windshield frame or the air intake boot on the body.seen this quite a few times on some of the 378's and 377's.

any fuel leak is bad,no matter what.
 

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Loves Jet Noise
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
looks like it needs a good spay of WD40 and a scrub brush. did that truck see alot of Midwest/eastcoast winters?
It has I am sure.. it is an Illinois truck.

this happens when they leak around the windshield frame or the air intake boot on the body.seen this quite a few times on some of the 378's and 377's.

any fuel leak is bad,no matter what.
Clueless, that is what I was thinking about on the drive home some kind of cab leak.

I agree 100% about the fuel leak.
 

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Senior Member
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Took these pictures today of a 2000 Pete 379's electrical/fuse panel and noticed a lot of corrosion. I do not remember the Pete 378 that I once drove having this issue.

Is this common or a bigger underlying problem with the electrical panel?

Also, there is a leaking fuel line fitting and was also wondering if this is normal? Also can some tell me what exactly this fuel line is?

Thanks for the help.
:bang The underbody pictures don't show much corrosion like a winter salted truck , but that power dist box looks scarry like maybe the truck was on a sulpher haul or something maybe a long term leak but the end result would be a electrical nightmare, if fuel dripping on the exhaust doesn't fix it first:fan
 

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Diesel Dubbah
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68 Posts
I thought only Kenworths had the optional "water cooled" fuse box! You definitly have a windshield leak, the bluish tint is from the windshield washer fluid. And even if the truck hasn't seen much road salt, the windshield always gets the spray of it, and the it leaks inside right onto your fuse box.

The fuel leak is the return fuel splitter valve. That valve makes sure that equal ammounts of return fuel go to each tank since the new trucks don't have the equalizer line from the bottom of each tank. 9 times out of 10 the fittings are loose going to that valve, take the lines off take the valve off and clean remove the fittings, put new pipe dope or tape on there and retighten and re-install.

Good Luck
 

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The corrosion in the fuse panel is SOP for PACCAR (KW and Pete). You should NOT use WD-40 in there as the propellant in the can, just as with most aerosols, will damage the plastic parts of the fuse panel. You can use a product like RidOx that will clean and protect the metal parts without damaging the plastic ones or more importantly the insultation on the wires!

The fuel leak is at the equalizer valve, they mostly don't work so I remove the valve but that makes mounting the "T" difficult without a boss on the replacement "T". As others have ocrrectly pointed out, typically caused by loose fittings.
 
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Loves Jet Noise
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
:bang The underbody pictures don't show much corrosion like a winter salted truck , but that power dist box looks scarry like maybe the truck was on a sulpher haul or something maybe a long term leak but the end result would be a electrical nightmare, if fuel dripping on the exhaust doesn't fix it first:fan
That is the drive shaft that it is dripping on... but never the less it is still a fuel leak and in the wrong conditions can like you said fix everything!

I thought only Kenworths had the optional "water cooled" fuse box! You definitly have a windshield leak, the bluish tint is from the windshield washer fluid. And even if the truck hasn't seen much road salt, the windshield always gets the spray of it, and the it leaks inside right onto your fuse box.

The fuel leak is the return fuel splitter valve. That valve makes sure that equal ammounts of return fuel go to each tank since the new trucks don't have the equalizer line from the bottom of each tank. 9 times out of 10 the fittings are loose going to that valve, take the lines off take the valve off and clean remove the fittings, put new pipe dope or tape on there and retighten and re-install.

Good Luck
Thank you for the reply... I was wondering what the blue was from and was a little freaked out thinking it was large amounts of sodium chloride. I have seen that on spliced exterior wires, but never in the cab!!

The fuel leak looks like an easy fix and will have to be done before the DOT.

The corrosion in the fuse panel is SOP for PACCAR (KW and Pete). You should NOT use WD-40 in there as the propellant in the can, just as with most aerosols, will damage the plastic parts of the fuse panel. You can use a product like RidOx that will clean and protect the metal parts without damaging the plastic ones or more importantly the insultation on the wires!

The fuel leak is at the equalizer valve, they mostly don't work so I remove the valve but that makes mounting the "T" difficult without a boss on the replacement "T". As others have ocrrectly pointed out, typically caused by loose fittings.
Thank you for the product info!! I will look into it!

Is the equalizer some kind of a spring loaded valve? What is it about them that causes them to fail?



The salesman was kind enough to snap some more pictures yesterday while it was raining... not planned, but it sure worked out well! ;) You can see the water dripping.

What can I look for on the other side to see if it too is leaking? And what kind of job is this? Do we have to replace the glass or can we only do the seals? This leads to my next question... I have to pull the rugs for the musty/moldy smell. Do they make OEM replacements (rubber or rug)? Or is this something I am going to have to come up with myself?

Guys I am "Thankful" for your help! Happy Thanksgiving!
 

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Wanna be door swinger
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Windsheild replacement will depend on how the edge of the glass looks. If its straight and true with no chips then reuse it (unless it has pitting on the rest, then I would just replace it while your at it). More than likely its the seals that are leaking. Also you may find out that the air horns and marker lights are leaking since Petes are also known to leak there.

As for the rugs or rubber matting...Pete should be able to get it, but it will be pricey. I suggest going aftermarket with some high quality sound deadner and insulation like Summit or Jegs sell. then you can cut and lay your own carpet or rubber on top. If you really want to dress it up you can install hardwood flooring instead of carpet or rubber.
 

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Loves Jet Noise
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
pullingtrucker... thanks for the reply. I actually thought of that as well about getting the wood floors. Just thinking that may cost a little more than rubber. Although I have a friend who does wood floors, may be I can get a deal.

It looks like windshields were in good shape for the most part. But I will price out the glass as well.
 

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not sure if you can reuse them,i think they have the rubber right on them,and the sealant they use on the back of the seal is nasty to get off.plus you destroy them getting them out.been a yr or 2 since i seen one.remember they came with the rubber on them,the seal strip you put on right before putting them in,wirth a small rope in the seal edge to roll the seal around the frame.not fun to do.
 

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Loves Jet Noise
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
clueless... thanks for the heads up. I will be making calls on tomorrow and this will give me more questions to ask.

Happy Thanksgiving!
 

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If the glass is set on urethane it will cut out, if it is in a gasket you will need a gasket and cut the old one away.

A glass shop will normally have sealer and will not get it out unless you ask. It is big time messy.

If the gasket is near new it 'may' be reuseable, it is hard to save both after a year or so and the glass is usually pitted in a year.

A piece of 2x4 an inch short of the windshield an inch from the top and a healthy man pushing with his toes while a second ran a plastic stick under the rubber if it was still flexible.

The fuel fittings were not quite tight, common to find, often quit with just wrenches but in a retail shop john_g is right.

good luck

keydl
 
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My Freightliner did the same thing. When it rained, the fuse panel would get wet and turn the marker lights on, usually would happen at one or two a.m. I sealed my roof clearance lights and made a plastic drape or curtain to protect my fuse panel,it works slick. My truck has all breakers and no fuses. plowking
 

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Like the other guys said the fuel leak is no big deal. That fuse panel needs to fixed and examined closely ASAP Those fuse panels can be outragously priced(my T600 was $1400 without the 5 hours of labour to install it) so fix the leak ASAP. Plus the brake light senders mount to the aluminum floor close by so I'd check those to see if there is corrosion issues there also. Good Luck
 

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To find the cab leak tape up the cab outlet vent and turn the heater to high, on outside air. then put a little soap in a spray bottle and soak down the cab it will bubble up where there is a leak. If that does not work put a spray nozzle on it and tie it to a step ladder then lay on the floor with a flashlight and wait. The fuel leak, just tighten up the fittings, that is not an uncommon thing, the fittings have a sealant on them from the factory.
 
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Loves Jet Noise
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Thanks for the replies and tips.
 
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