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P/T pump

#10 button and yellow spring , this is pressure time pump your increasing pressure the RPM is going to be higher due to fuel pressure, you will want to run duel inlet fuel lines to frnt and rr heads,I try to go big #5 line , more flow. A good pyro is a must , this will go into burn down real quick , I dont have turbo # now will try to post soon . feed this fuel and lots of air will be runner and relieable.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
I guess the thing that bothers me is that everybody is talking about adding more Rev and more fuel. At what point is the turbo insufficient. The turbo needs to work in the center of the compressor map the further away from the eye you are the less efficient the turbo is. At what boost preasure is this? This is the point I would try to set my fuel for
 

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I take it you are working with an older engine, it is working as it is when you crank it up, you will break the manifolds, that will kill all the boost you could get.
Raising the RPM will produce a lot of heat that will melt the pistons, and kill the turbo.
There is no such thing as free HP, an engine that is made for 400 HP max and live. crank it up and it will die, The radiator is not made for an increase in power. It is a slippery slope of a money pit.
Just a thought!
 

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Still waiting on a manifold to break, haven't seen it yet with any of the high HP big cams I am around.
 

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Still waiting on a manifold to break, haven't seen it yet with any of the high HP big cams I am around.
You must get the special manifolds or your trucks do not pull mountains for up to an hour. I have changed many manifolds, for multiple breaks.
Just a thought!
 

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I guess we don't have mountains like that around here.Cause I have upgraded many cummins.
I guess I should say also that I never did get silly with the fuel either like you read about here.
 

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We had one of the best Cummins Guys I ever met he would not upgrade a lot of units, because of the area they drove in trucks going south he would do mild tunes. Running east west they would get into to much trouble and the same guys that wanted it done and swore they would sign off on the changes when they got it done by someone else, they would take legal action. I realise no one on this site would ever do that, BUT
Just a thought!
 

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I worked at the freightliner dealer for many years and they would not upgrade a engine any more than the factory would and no more than the drive train would take. But one morning a customer ask if he could do a HP upgrade on a 60S even tho the trans was some what smaller and did sign a release form. They did a upgrade and a few months later the trans went out. He came back on the dealer in court saying even tho he was warned damage could oucur but he was too stupid to relate to this and that.The lawyer said he was going to win and he did.When you go to court and set among 6 or 12 juries if it goes that far any thing could happen.So the dealer paid for the trans and down time.That is what America has came to.
 

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I very much doubt that anyone asking about tuning a big cam is having it done by a dealer.
 

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I take it you are working with an older engine, it is working as it is when you crank it up, you will break the manifolds, that will kill all the boost you could get.
Raising the RPM will produce a lot of heat that will melt the pistons, and kill the turbo.
There is no such thing as free HP, an engine that is made for 400 HP max and live. crank it up and it will die, The radiator is not made for an increase in power. It is a slippery slope of a money pit.
Just a thought!
I think a lot of what your saying has to do with who worked on it and who is driving it, my truck is a 92 with the original clutch, put some idiot in it, and it wouldn't last a month, just like the first truck I ever drove, had two clutches put in it before I started and had 230,000 miles on it, I drove that truck for three years with no problems
 

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I think a lot of what your saying has to do with who worked on it and who is driving it, my truck is a 92 with the original clutch, put some idiot in it, and it wouldn't last a month, just like the first truck I ever drove, had two clutches put in it before I started and had 230,000 miles on it, I drove that truck for three years with no problems
I ran a rt11609 behind my B model for a while, it was in the truck when I got it, i never had an issue with it until I did something stupid with it.
 

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Years ago I did a lot of repowers, any time you upgrade the HP and torque on the motor using old underrated gear train all it takes is one incident and there can be problems. I did a bunch of Car carriers, with 8V92's they worked out great untill he went around a corner under power, one wheel slipped on the gravel and granaded his transmission. he ended up changing all the transmissions and drive lines.
We use to regularly uprate the 3406B's about 10% above stock never had a problem with that, it all comes down to the run you have and the amount of uprate you put into it.
Just a thought!
 

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Years ago I did a lot of repowers, any time you upgrade the HP and torque on the motor using old underrated gear train all it takes is one incident and there can be problems. I did a bunch of Car carriers, with 8V92's they worked out great untill he went around a corner under power, one wheel slipped on the gravel and granaded his transmission. he ended up changing all the transmissions and drive lines.
We use to regularly uprate the 3406B's about 10% above stock never had a problem with that, it all comes down to the run you have and the amount of uprate you put into it.
Just a thought!
 
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