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Junior Member
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26 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Told 379 Longhood I would post some pics and a little about my old truck so here it is.

1995 Peterbilt with a 425hp 3406 3ZJ, Eaton 15 over, Eaton 355's, on a 291 wheelbase. Has a little over 330,000 on overhaul including all gears in the frt. cover. Little over 250,000 on pump overhaul. Transmission was rebuilt same time motor was and both rear ends were replaced with new ones about 1 1/2yrs ago.

I have had the truck for a little over 5yrs. It originally came with an E model (5EK) but the previous owner changed it to the mechanical it has now along with the trans which was a 10 speed.

I pull a flatbed with it and haul what I consider to be more local than regional. Not more than about 250 mile one way. I am leased to a small family owned outfit that is mostly dedicated to a large company here in town that has a sawmill, particleboard plant, and a fiberboard plant all right here. I have been loading out of one of these plants everyday for close to 10yrs. now. Not a bad gig. Home everynight and have managed to make a pretty decent living for myself and the family for all these years.

If you happen to see me about out here in the great state of Texas give me a holler. They call me "too hotty" (long story there) on the radio.

below are a few pictures of my old Pete, though if you've seen it lately it has a primered hood. Had a guy in a 4 wheeler come out of nowhere and whacked me few months ago. Messed up the hood and bumper, knocked the front end back, then he spun around and back into my drives where he caused a little damage also. Anyway was a mess there for a while but finally got everything straightened out. Will be getting the whole thing repainted shortly.









 

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Hadley Coal Roller
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819 Posts
thats one gorgeous rig :thumbsup
 

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Senior Member
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2,555 Posts
:woohoo That is nice Sorry about the wreck damage hwats the matter with 4wheelers , there are lots of company Volvos to run into , post some before and after paint picks if you get a chance , and let's hope the diaphram cures your fueling problems:woot:
 

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Gear jammin fool
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869 Posts
Nice ride!
 

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TDG Singles Club #112
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565 Posts
Really sharp. I'm impressed....
 

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Born in the USA
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2,651 Posts
That is a beautiful truck brother!!!
 

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Member
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990 Posts
very pretty Peterbilt

Please advise the wheelbase length and the sleeper size? 63 inch on the later I assume. And what are all the holes on the frame rails? Aren't they kinda close to the flange? How many gallon tanks?

The proportions of your rig seem perfect to me. From stem t stern.....gorgeous.

Roger Durban in Washington, DC
 

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Member
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990 Posts
Have you had any difficlty out of your 291inch frame rails? Welded and bolted? How much does one lap the other on a given side? Were new or additional cross members installed? How long have you been runnng stretched like that and do you haul heavy?
Roger
 

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Junior Member
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26 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
No problems with the frame rails. Not sure what you mean on the overlap. It was cut and welded then double framed and bolted. I can't tell where it was cut and welded but the owner before me thought it was at the sleeper. One crossmember and one extra carrier bearing. I have had the truck 5 1/2 yrs. It was stretched before I bought it. I just run a 48ft. flatbed.
 

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Member
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990 Posts
Trying to get a clearer grasp of how the frame was extended. Cut was made on each factory frame rail near the sleeper and then a new piece of longer frame rail was butt welded on to each cut? And then a new matching frame rail was lined up along side of the spliced together pieces and bolted (and welded, too?) in place. How far up towards the motor does the new piece of frame rail run (overlap) - past the butt jointed weld? And does the double frame run all the way back to the rear drive axle?

The risky area is right at the cut I imagine. Is anything done there to insure maximum strength?

I wonder why so many bolts were deemd necessary and so many holes. Seems like the stress vectors would run a direction that would not need that many. (THe frame rails on one side won't slip fore and aft). Indeed that many holes would to be counterproductive to rigidity inasmuch as each hole is going to allow a little wiggle room for it's bolt.

I've talked with some custom frame builders but they want too much for their product. $8000 +/-

I must say your rigs dimensions are perfect. Wonder why the guy, your predecessor, picked 291?

thanks.
R
 

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Member
Joined
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990 Posts
Trying to get a clearer grasp of how the frame was extended. Cut was made on each factory frame rail near the sleeper and then a new piece of longer frame rail was butt welded on to each cut? And then a new matching frame rail was lined up along side of the spliced together pieces and bolted (and welded, too?) in place. How far up towards the motor does the new piece of frame rail run (overlap) - past the butt jointed weld? And does the double frame run all the way back to the rear drive axle?

The risky area is right at the cut I imagine. Is anything done there to insure maximum strength?

I wonder why so many bolts were deemd necessary and so many holes. Seems like the stress vectors would run a direction that would not need that many. (THe frame rails on one side won't slip fore and aft). Indeed that many holes would to be counterproductive to rigidity inasmuch as each hole is going to allow a little wiggle room for it's bolt.

I've talked with some custom frame builders but they want too much for their product. $8000 +/-

I must say your rigs dimensions are perfect. Wonder why the guy, your predecessor, picked 291?

thanks.
R
CLARIFICATION OF ABOVE: Total cost of two frame rails about 290 inches long comes to about $6000 with cross memebers and drilling. Add 2 or 3 thosand more in labor and incidentals. Copied below is a quotation I received a few months ago. Rogerstar1

"Since your wheelbase is 24’ -2” long, I figured a price on a set of frames that are 29’ -0” long (to give you a bit past the axles). The price for (2) frames that length from 3/8” Grade 80 material is $ 2,278. The price for the same thing, but with Grade 100 material is $ 2,483. This price reflects blank frames with NO holes. We do have the ability to do holes, but yes, we would need some form of accurate template—that could be a CAD drawing from Peterbilt, or what a lot of customers do is send their existing frames to us so we can duplicate them. The approximate price for holes would be $ 1,050 per pair. Presumably, if you’d like us to do holes, you will probably have cuts and tapers you’d like us to do as well. Since we see quite a few Petes, I’ve approximated a price for cuts and tapers based on what I’ve seen in the past-- $ 630 would be that approx. price. We can obviously get into more detail about exactly what you’re looking for if you decide to order. I will want to send you sketches with dimensional details for you to sign off on, etc. Freight for the pair to your zip code would be $ 519.

As far as crossmembers go, we definitely can fabricate them, but we do not do any installation. I’ve attached sketches of our three most common crossmember styles for you to take a look at. If any of them suite your needs, simply fill out the applicable dimensions and send it back to me so I can work up pricing for you."


Adams: Looking at your set up is such an inspiration. Unfortunately at the moment the engine dealers have their hands in my pockets and don't seem to want to take them out. The machinests want to get their's back in so the fabricators will just have to wait their turn. Of course doing everything while the truck is idle and getting repowered makes the most sense but Mama says 'not happeneing and over my dead body" to that suggestion.

R.
 

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Junior Member
Joined
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26 Posts
Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Trying to get a clearer grasp of how the frame was extended. Cut was made on each factory frame rail near the sleeper and then a new piece of longer frame rail was butt welded on to each cut? And then a new matching frame rail was lined up along side of the spliced together pieces and bolted (and welded, too?) in place. How far up towards the motor does the new piece of frame rail run (overlap) - past the butt jointed weld? And does the double frame run all the way back to the rear drive axle?

The risky area is right at the cut I imagine. Is anything done there to insure maximum strength?

I wonder why so many bolts were deemd necessary and so many holes. Seems like the stress vectors would run a direction that would not need that many. (THe frame rails on one side won't slip fore and aft). Indeed that many holes would to be counterproductive to rigidity inasmuch as each hole is going to allow a little wiggle room for it's bolt.

I've talked with some custom frame builders but they want too much for their product. $8000 +/-

I must say your rigs dimensions are perfect. Wonder why the guy, your predecessor, picked 291?

thanks.
R
Not sure about the decision on the length. Maybe because if it was any longer it might need another carrier bearing or crossmember, not sure. Could be 290 instead of 291, depends on whos holding the tape I guess. 291 sounds cooler than 290 ha,ha.. :)

To be honest I am not really sure where the cut(s) and weld(s) are. You cant find them. The frame rails are doubled (a smaller size was put behind the main frame rail) only about 4 to 5ft. It starts right behind the sleeper airbag pedestal that mounts to the frame and stops right before where the frt. spring hangar bolts go through the frame rails at the drives.
 

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Junior Member
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69 Posts
Nice ride Adams! I like the idea of the old style hood latches! Good idea! Where did you find usable latches? Very nice. Makes me want to get back to work on mine!

RF
 

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Junior Member
Joined
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26 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Nice ride Adams! I like the idea of the old style hood latches! Good idea! Where did you find usable latches? Very nice. Makes me want to get back to work on mine!

RF
Latches were on it when I bought it. Have had several people ask about them but have never seen any for sale anywhere.
 

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CRAZY CANUCK
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4,320 Posts
Very nice rig :thumbsup
 
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