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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The truck is a 1986 model 1954/S1900 single axle 2 speed trans, with a DT466 that use to be a horse, now its a donkey. It has a R bosch inline pump. Its been running bad to worse for about 8 months now. It runs up to full speed/rpm then drops power & speed for a few seconds then back to full and so on. Stalls out when under heavy load in 4th and 5th gear shortly after it reaches max rpm.Now its starting to stall with no load. I never had any problems with it for the last 5 years I have worked it. Someone that I know told me that the new ultra low sulfer fuel is the cause, it eats the seals out in the fuel system on old trucks. Could this be true? It seem to make sence, because I never had a problem until I started running the new fuel. I Have changed the filters air & fuel, the water sep, the line from the tank to the water sep, the clutch, checked the pedal linkage,cracked all injector lines one at a time they seem to be ok,made sure all lines are tight, and still the same problem. It gets worse every time i use the truck. It Starts and runs good until it gets up to the higher speed & rpms. When its not moving and u put the fuel to it, it runs like a top no misses. No Smoke after it worms up,turbo sounds the same as always. Can Someone PLEASE HELP ME. I love this truck its like a child to me, and its the backbone of my small company. the IH dealer wants $1800.00 for a pump but I want to make sure thats what i need. I run my dozer, backhoe , and excavator on off road fuel and have no problems, and thanks to this web site and all of u, I have always been able to fix my own problems with out going to the dealer. I hope u guy can get me over this problem, and back to making money. the truck has exhaust leaks where it leaves the turbo and at the muffler. Also does any 1 know where to get manuals for these truck, other than the dealer.
 

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I recently stopped driving my 86 s1900because the side of the turbo ripped open, I had the 5 speed rebuilt and the oil cooler replaced but got a newer truck to get away from repairs and down time but have had just as much, go figure. Good luck
 

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I doubt itll help but you could try some howes or power service, stanadyne fuel conditoner in it and see fi that helps
 

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Try some ATF in the fuel. A quart per tank should be enough. That will put back the oil that is missing from the new fuel. The old pumps like sulfur for lube. I have had mechanical pumps that didn't like the first of the low sulfur stuff and sure wouldn't like this new stuff. You can use the fancy fuel additives but I have found the cheepest $1 a quart ATF will work just fine. Could be your pump is worn out. Depending on the hours on it you may need a rebuild.
 

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i have noticed no change in the performance of my 466 trucks. i'am sure there may be a tad less power, but not enough to notice in my particular application. dont add atf to the fuel, it is suppose to be bad for the pump seal's. if anything add 2cyl oil, i do this on ocassion, with no issues. i understand it's the best way, other than the higher priced other stuff[ power service/howes/etc.] the injector pumps on 466 engines are for the most part, lubed by engine oil.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
well I put a fuel additive form the local auto parts store in the tanks this morning, drove it around for about an hour, seemed like it did a little better(been so long sence i drove in when it wasn't sick I'm not sure) with no load on it. Put a load of dirt in the back of it, and it run good until 4th gear high, then stalled out going down hill. Pulled over and cranked on it for less than a min... started back up and idled good. Then the same thing happened again. If It was suckin air to the point it stalls, would I not have to re-prime it???
 

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'Ol Builder guy
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You might have water in your fuel. The water remains in the lines or the tank until you do something to remove it. You might also have an algae problem. Other possibilities are a cracked fuel line going into your tank or in the lines from the tank to the fuel pump.

I don't think the ULSD has anything to do with it because if it did, there'd be a couple hundred thousand pre ULSD trucks sitting by the side of the road with the 4ways on right now.

Your truck isn't the only one left in the world that ran on the older fuel, right?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Check out this report from Georgia EPA, IH DT maintenance I think its page 4 or 5 of the report.
http://64.233.169.104/search?q=cach...t+ulsd+fuel+problems&hl=en&ct=clnk&cd=2&gl=us


This is a quote from the washington state Dep of ecology
"Will using ULSD affect my vehicle’s performance?
Although engine and vehicle manufacturers expect ULSD fuel to work fine with existing vehicles, some older vehicles may have problems with fuel system leaks or fuel filter plugging. Check your vehicle’s fuel system often to avoid these problems. Your vehicle may also get slightly less fuel mileage than it did with low sulfur diesel, but there should not be any effect on the vehicle’s overall power."

THis is a quote from fleet equipment mag dated oct 2006 the link to the hole articl is below:
Evans experienced 100 percent failure rates in some brands of engines. Other brands seemed to handle ULSD better. He was told to expect failures (at least one engine builder has issued a technical bulletin) in older equipment. He encountered failures in all his equipment - with two exceptions. Older equipment that already had fuel systems rebuilt was not a problem. Newer units that had started their lives on ULSD fuel seemed to operate properly. Everything else seemed to fail shortly after switching from #2 diesel to ULSD.

http://findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_qa5356/is_200610/ai_n21400451?tag=rel.res1

It does seem to me that certian types of seal/rubber compounds used in older trucks is being affected.

I just got done removing all the lines from my fuel sys -the new 1 . I all so drained my water sep into a glass, And you are right there was a small black blob of algae felt like jelly between my fingers. The water sep was replace 2 months ago. the fuel in the filters was clean. How do i get the algae out of the system??? Also the supply line does look a little dry rotted when i got it out from under the cab. I,m going to get a new one monday. The line does not have to leak fuel to have a hole in it, is this correct???? THANKS
 

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Racor makes a Biocide that the boaters swear by. if you have a West Marine nearby that's where I found the stuff. ITS MEAN STUFF! I recommend carrying a spare fuel filter with you the min you dump the recommended dose in the tank.

also I have been hearing a lot of guys with fords and internationals complain about rust and junk in the bottom of their fuel tanks. Might be worth it to run the tank down low and look inside with a high power flash light and see what's floating around the bottom of you tank.
 

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'Ol Builder guy
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VicDevelopments said:
water in the fuel would make the engine run bad at all speeds and rpms right???
My experience with water in the fuel is that the engine will idle or run low RPM's OK, then buck , stall, spit or just plain quit under heavier acceleration.

My latest experience was on my 7.3L Powerstroke. It would start & run beautiful. It would back out of the shop just fine. It would even drive down the road slowly with no issues, but when you hit the accelerator, it would spit and fall on it's face. Drove me nuts. I was looking at all the complicated stuff-PCM contacts, etc. never considered the fuel filter b/c I had just changed it. Finally i checked it and it was BLACK with sludge. I changed the filter and put some additives in the tank and all was well.

That "blob" you speak of was probably water with a lot of bacteria and algae forming a blob of sludge which might get sucked up to the pump on heavy acceleration or maybe on hills it makes it's way over to the fuel pickup.. Did you rip open one of your old fuel filters to look inside?

You can buy something like this: http://www.priproducts.com/priocide.htm

http://www.fueladditiveonline.com/Fuel Additive/RacorAdditives.php
 

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'Ol Builder guy
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You mention that your truck seems to get into trouble when a "hill" is encountered. Water is heavier than fuel. I'm wondering if once your truck hits a hill, that the water goes to the fuel pickup and begins to clog the fuel line.

Maybe it would be a good idea to run the tank as low on fuel as possible by driving it, then drain what's left out of the tank and look for water & crap in the tank. You could have all kind of water, critters & trash in the bottom. Remember, all that crap lays on the bottom, you can't see it.
 

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I don't think you have a fuel problem, but a aneriod problem.

The older DTs are suseptible to leaking boost signal tubes that run from the intake down to the rear of the injection pump (aneroid). When this pipe gets a small hole worn in it, the pressure leask off, and you do not get "full fuel" because the aneriod does not "see" enough boost to allow it.

These holes are commonly worn into the pipe by the throttle cable rubbing on the inside of the pipe about midway in it's length.

If that is ok, then I would look very closely for an air leak in the suction (fuel pickup) line or fitting. This is also common, and fuel WILL NOT LEAK on the suction side.

Since you changed your filters, that almost disproves a fuel problem. The seals you have heard about that can leak are the ones that are "square cut" and fit on the ends of the fuel tubes. I don't think your engine has this style of fitting or pipes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thanks for the links. I ordered some Racor Coolant Treatment, & Diesel Biocide, now I gota wait 5 to 10 days. My buddy cut open the primary filter with a sawzall, it’s got some of the same black crap that the water sep had. I'm going to drain 1 tank threw a coffee filter/funnel just to see what’s up in the tank. I poured some clean fuel in to the water sep, shook it up & poured it in to a cup, it was full of thrash. I think this may be my problem. The truck is starving for fuel at high rpm because it’s all gummed up with this crap. I should have been checking that a long time ago. Thanks For the advice. I hope that this is the problem & not the pump. Should I remove all the old fuel form the tanks, before I replace the filters, water sep , new supply line and add the biocide??? I'm guessing around 45 to 55 Gal where talkin about $160.00 Bucks. Think if I filtered it I could re-use??? how do I get the water out of it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
john I looked at the line where were talking about , It is rusty & a little pitted near the bottom. It Looks cheap, I will get a new one monday when I get the supply line. Prob... got to order it. Also the return line that comes off the back of the pump is rubber then its fitted to a steel tube then it tees to the injector return line then back to rubber and on to the tank. The steel tube part is also vary rusty and pitted, but shows no signs of leaking. should I replace that to??? THANKS
 

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No, that fitting sees no pressure to speak of and won't generally cause any troubles.

You certainly can re-use your fuel once filtered. The blackish crap is algea, and it will plug up your suction side filter in a HEARTBEAT causing very low fuel delivery pressure. You would be amazed at how little algea it takes to restrict fuel flow!
 

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'Ol Builder guy
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VicDevelopments said:
Thanks for the links. I ordered some Racor Coolant Treatment, & Diesel Biocide, now I gota wait 5 to 10 days. My buddy cut open the primary filter with a sawzall, it’s got some of the same black crap that the water sep had. I'm going to drain 1 tank threw a coffee filter/funnel just to see what’s up in the tank. I poured some clean fuel in to the water sep, shook it up & poured it in to a cup, it was full of thrash. I think this may be my problem. The truck is starving for fuel at high rpm because it’s all gummed up with this crap. I should have been checking that a long time ago. Thanks For the advice. I hope that this is the problem & not the pump. Should I remove all the old fuel form the tanks, before I replace the filters, water sep , new supply line and add the biocide??? I'm guessing around 45 to 55 Gal where talkin about $160.00 Bucks. Think if I filtered it I could re-use??? how do I get the water out of it?
Yep! Damn, I think I might have nailed it! :Thumbup: Not trying to pat myself on the back, but 90% of the time when these diesels don't run right, it's the same freakin problem BAD FUEL. Now that could be trash in the tank, critters or water. That last filter I had changed was BLACK and it was like TAR on the filter pleats. Your engine can get enough fuel to run idle/low or maybe even mid, but when she's really sucking down the fuel, all the sudden, the fuel's not there and you get a nasty hiccup, belch or power loss because the filter is too restricted or water starts filling up the filter.

Yeah, you can refilter the fuel, but from now on, make sure you buy fuel from a fuel station that moves a LOT of fuel, treat it with additives and keep the tank as full as you can while she's sitting. Not as much condensation can form in a nearly full tank. One the water droplets & condensation form in an empty tank, they attract bacteria and BAM you got critters and then you got a filter full of black tar.

I don't know if you know this, but you can trash a brand new filter in one bad tank or one tank that's been sitting near empty for a long period.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Well I drained the tanks, there was some junk in then but not as much as I thought there would be. Took the crossover line off and pressure washed the inside of the tanks and dried with air. Put the new line on $44.00 , new filters $25.00 new water sep $16.00. Had to order the aneroid tube {the little rubber seals on the old tube looked like they had seen better days}, it was $11.00 bucks. I put the old tube back on the truck, & I'm going to get some fresh fuel in the morning, and wind her up. Hope its fixed, if not maybe its the aneroid. I read some about them, seems to play a big part on the fuel metering when the turbo is peaking.
 
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