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Dump Truckin SOB
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Discussion Starter #1
I have a n14 celect in my 96 fld120. It has a starting problem. Sometimes it will fire right up and other times it has to crank and crank. When it starts normally everything is fine but when it has to crank to start it will rev up to 1500rpm when it finally does start. I know that has to be hard on the engine with cold oil. So what do u think my problem might be. I changed my check ball at the ecm the other day thinking it was letting the fuel back to the tank. But still have the problem.
 

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Junior Member
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3,533 Posts
You need to check the restriction before the injection pump, It could be as simple as a filter, or it could be the cooler plate is plugged. Put a pressure gauge on the pressure side of the pump and a volt meter on the solenoid STUD not the wire be sure you have 9.6 volts at the stud or the solenoid will not be fully open. The pressure must be coming up quickly past 75 to start. You need at least 135 minimum to operate properly.
You can with a flashlight to look into the fuel tank while cranking looking for a lot of air, fuel draining back, or if after it starts lots of air means it is sucking air then you need a #10 clear line to check the input side and a #8 to check the return.
Just a thought!
 

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If you do not have 9.6 volts then clean the battery connections, ground connections, and ECM power wires. Charge the batteris with a regulated charger independantly. Remove the wire from the solenoid and with a multimeter, measure the resistance it should be from 7 to 8 ohms.
 

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Senior Member
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1,138 Posts
Also make sure the starter is not dragging or pulling too much current. The power harness to the ecm needs checked like was stated and make sure it has battery voltage and also make sure the ground in that harness will care current. Not only messuring the okms but use a head light and see if the pos and neg wire will care a current with no volt loss.
Then if thats ok i have repaired many by adding a exstened tube down into the filter. Remove the filter houing from the gear pump and thread the center port that connects to the filter element with a 3/8 pipe tap. Install a 2 1/4 pipe nipple in the housing and that will repair for fuel drain back for a few days.If the drain back is real bad it may still drain back after a couple weeks.
 

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Dump Truckin SOB
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Discussion Starter #7
Going to check the wiring from the ecm tomorrow. I've read that some of the ecms have 2 power wires going to the starter and that can cause problems over time. Going to check the grounds also. Also going to check the fuel solenoid for proper voltage.
 

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Going to check the wiring from the ecm tomorrow. I've read that some of the ecms have 2 power wires going to the starter and that can cause problems over time. Going to check the grounds also. Also going to check the fuel solenoid for proper voltage.
You should have two ground and two pos wires and in most cases they go to starter but can go to batterys.
 

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On a Cummins you should have a three wire plug by the starter body, the outside are positive and the inside is ground. As was stated a headlight is the best way to test the connections but using a test light is OK if you do not do it for a living.
 

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i had the same problem o a few diffrent trucks of mine one truck it wound up being the timing sensor just under the acc drive on the other the starter went bad i put a new starter on it and the driver told me that his truck never started so easy
 

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:confused:Hi There, The(fleetguard) FS1000 has a metal tube made in the filter to help this problem.Also need to check to see if it has a check valve in the ECM cooling plate outlet line It is made in the fitting the fuel line goes to.Remove fitting & check it.If it is not one there get one and install it.dont use Baldwin bf614 is worth in some cases Baldwin is better than fleetguard n14 has this problem because the sensor cam, is so far cant read , Hope it helps:read:shrugs
 

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Dump Truckin SOB
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Discussion Starter #12
Put a new check valve in a couple weeks ago to see if that was the problem. But still hard starts. U say the cam sensor cause a hard start problem also?
 

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Put a new check valve in a couple weeks ago to see if that was the problem. But still hard starts. U say the cam sensor cause a hard start problem also?
:gaahyeap!!! this is not new but if you go to youtube(n14 cam sensor) a man sale a chip to help start quickly n14,s (for $35 i believe) omg sometime is made in china not bueno amigo,buy aftermarket is better :toytruck
 

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Junior Member
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I have a n14 celect in my 96 fld120. It has a starting problem. Sometimes it will fire right up and other times it has to crank and crank. When it starts normally everything is fine but when it has to crank to start it will rev up to 1500rpm when it finally does start. I know that has to be hard on the engine with cold oil. So what do u think my problem might be. I changed my check ball at the ecm the other day thinking it was letting the fuel back to the tank. But still have the problem.
I think you are going to find that is a typical problem. I had a customer with two of these...96, 97 model if I remember. After I spent a good bit of his money trying to fix slow start, Cummins took the rest of what little he had and still never corrected it.

I and Cummins tried ECM's, timing sensors, supply pumps, lines, batteries, starters, fittings, etc. and never solved it. Seems to be that certain year model.
 

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Dump Truckin SOB
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Discussion Starter #15
The slow starting really doesn't bother me its just that when it does finally start the motor revs real high and on cold oil I know that can't be good right?
 

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The slow starting really doesn't bother me its just that when it does finally start the motor revs real high and on cold oil I know that can't be good right?
Well, it's not the best for it, but by the time it spins trying to start, the oil is almost pressureized anyway.

The PEEC Cat's I have owned in the past always started right up....but when cold they ALWAYS rev up to around 12-1500 then idle back down. I never really liked it either.
 

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Missouri Outlaw
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19 Posts
try flooring the foot feed when you first start cranking it, my 96 n14 did the same thing and i figured out to pump the throttle once when cranking and it fired up every time, i pump the throttle once on all my cummins engines now, my 5.9 in my dodge (05) my old shaker(96) and with my isx( 05 w9)..all start easier with the throttle pumped once....fools the ecm into thinking its wot and it puts more fuel in( like chokin a gasser) and it starts easier...
 

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I noticed the same thing about applying the throttle on start up. Didn't think it would have anything to do with that not having mechanical linkage. I just did it out of habbit. Does anyone know why this works?
 
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