The Diesel Garage banner

1 - 5 of 5 Posts

·
Junior Member
Joined
·
193 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Got a pete dump truck that i bought 14 yrs ago. My first truck and new to business then. Well my passenger side frame rail cracked 2 yrs ago. It cracked at the bottom flange and up the rail maybe an inch . Thats when i noticed it. Took it to a shop and they welded it and put a frame insert , runs like 18 inches to one side and about 20 to the other side of crack. Lasted 2 yrs and now it cracked the same place plus the frame insert too. Don’t want to replace truck, its my baby and has everything else good. Thought about putting on both side 1/4 inch frame inserts(double frame section) with a trunnion cross member.



What do you guys think? Would it be a good idea to drill every 8 inches or so on bottom flange and bolt inner frame insert and frame together besides other bolts on side of frame? I have a jancy magnetic drill . Just want to fix it to last a while so i can save money to re frame truck in a couple of years.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Junior Member
Joined
·
323 Posts
The trunion would help.
The insert seems a little short to me.
Can a longer one be fitted? Preferably doubled.
 

·
Junior Member
Joined
·
193 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
The trunion would help.

The insert seems a little short to me.

Can a longer one be fitted? Preferably doubled.


It can be longer by 10 inches to each side but then will need to remove factory crossmembers


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Junior Member
Joined
·
515 Posts
You can't or should never drill into the flange, top or bottom.
Agreed 100%. Carefully search for end of crack in stop drill it it Then add as long of a liner as possible to inside ad fish plate outside and then bolt it all together. Do not weld straight up or down on any of it (except maybe the crack) Personal preference for me tha alot of people will argue I am wrong but when I weld a crack up on steel I bevel it mostly from one side and make a root pass from that side and check the other side for proper penetration then weld it up good making sure the weld is a little bit convex. Then I grind it all flat as the rest and fill any deficiencies by grinding out a bit with die grinder and weld it hot or preheat it a little. a weld sticking up does not let your sleeve or plate sit flat and imo creates stress riser worse than just the weld itself. I have also used plug welds alot on repairs of stuff like this and had good luck. Spaced out within reason they still all the metal to flex some . When making long welds to attach a plate or sleeve weld length ways is ok but at a 30 -45 degree angle is better/ just mainly never 90*. I try not to let my wlds ever com to a point where top weld and bottom weld meet I just leave that area of patch unwelded. I sure wouldn't take out any crossmemebers and I would be prone to want to put a sleeve in opposite side as well or something is going to be your weak spot all the time and cause further issues I am afraid. I like your trunion idea but I would probably want it bolted in, If using regular hot roll steel I think I would step up to 3/8" or have the plate on outside and sleeve on inside total thickness exceed thickness of frame rail by a tad. I am not a pro. I just play one on the internet. PM me if I can clarify anything or help. I have been in similar positions with equipment so I feel your pain.:sofa:
 
1 - 5 of 5 Posts
Top