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Educated Amateur
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90 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I have an Elite wastegate. Plumbed right. I plugged the two open holes on the controller and the extra one on the BOV. I cannot get the truck to build backpressure like it should. At one point it would get up to 60 on the bp. Then... basically i cant get it back. Its like the adjustment has no dramatic effect. Either way you turn it. Also the wastegate controller makes a squeel/teakettle noise sometimes. Any ideas?
 

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Justifiably Confused
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67 Posts
Wastegate and BOV

You indicated that you plummed the wastegate to the BOV. I assume you used the regulator in the wastegate kit and tied that into the side port of the wastegate. I was told by Elite that the pressure signal for the wastegate (other side of hose leading from the wastegate) should be tied into the high pressure side of the intake. It was suggested to me that I drill and tap the block off plate that goes on the intake elbow and get my feed from there.

Perhaps the BOV location you tied the wastegate line into is screwing with the operation of the dump.
 

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Team White
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727 Posts
I am having the same problem with my Elite Wastegate setup. I have the top port of the wastegate open to atmosphere as suggested and the side port is plumbed through the regulator and i drilled and tapped the block off plate in the intake elbow. I have adjusted the regulator every which way and my EBP is wayyyyyy low. I dont ever see more than 30psi there. My truck also will not make any boost which makes me think that the wastegate is always open or partly open. I am getting really frustrated as this is week number 5 that I have not been able to drive my truck. Elite has not really been very helpful in making sure that its not a problem with their setup. I have replaced sensor, scanned the truck with a ford computer, and checked everything possible with no luck.
 

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Educated Amateur
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90 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
We'll figure it out man. Im on week 5 but its been alot of issues along the way. Kinda sucks bein the lightning rod, But itll be worth it in the end.
 

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Junior Member
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53 Posts
this is ridic. elites got more kits out than just you two guys. nice of them the CHIME! in.. wish i could help as im looking to do the same as you guys here shortly. damn
 

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Chirpin Tires...
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1,402 Posts
this is ridic. elites got more kits out than just you two guys. nice of them the CHIME! in.. wish i could help as im looking to do the same as you guys here shortly. damn
Okay guys. I'll explain how it works. First off though, wastegate instructions beyond the somewhat vague email instructions are in the works, and we apologize for lack of clear instructions. Secondly, yeah, we're closed on the weekends, but you shouldn't expect somebody from Elite to answer from the forum. If you need to get a hold of us, your best bet is to call the shop (866-631-8518, or local 719-647-0232) during business hours. We're open from 8-5:30, mountain time, and closed from 12-1 for lunch. If you're not having good luck with that, or it's the weekend, sure, try here. Send a pm to me or Garrett (Giddy-up-go) and we'll do the best we can if we're on.

As far as plumbing the wastegate:

Disregard wastegate manufacturer's instructions as we've found in this application our setup is more reliable and accurate. The blue hose connects to a boost reference preferably close to the compressor outlet. It then goes to the inlet side of the regulator. The regulator has 3 outlets. 2 of them get plugged, and the 3rd goes to the side port of the wastegate. The top port of the wastegate gets the barbed fitting attached, and the hose as well if you'd like. It vents to the atmosphere.

Depending on the brand of wastegate (tial or precision) there will be 1 or 2 side ports. If you have 1, you're fine. Proceed as previously described. If you have 2 side ports, plug 1 of them (either one is fine) and use the other as your port from the regulator as described above.

Adjusting the wastegate regulator:

when turned all the way counter-clockwise, the wastegate will not open until back pressure reaches at least 65 psi, possibly as high as 85 psi
EBP. from there, the more you turn it clockwise, the sooner it dumps. If you go too far clockwise, it will dump the exhaust pressure too early, and you won't be able to build sufficient boost.

Where to set the wastegate:

You'll need an accurate pressure gauge for boost and exhaust back pressure. The dash daq provides these readings as such; manifold gauge pressure is the same as actual boost pressure. EBP (exhaust back pressure) is atmospheric pressure + exhaust back pressure. MAP (manifold absolute pressure) is boost pressure + atmospheric pressure. It is easiest to use MAP and EBP as readings, but if you like math, you can use MGP and EBP - atmospheric pressure. The ideal street ratio is approximately 10 psi actual peak exhaust pressure higher than actual boost pressure. For example, If your EBP reads 75 and your MAP reads 65, you're perfect. Assuming an atmospheric pressure of 13 psi, you'd also be perfect having EBP of 75, and MGP of 52. To know your actual atmospheric pressure, look at EBP or MAP with key on, engine off.

In a perfect world on the dyno you'd have a perfect 1:1 ratio of boost and back pressure. If this is your goal, expect street manners and drivability to suffer. Peak power could improve slightly, but it's usually not worth trying for a perfect 1:1 ratio. If you have any more questions please just give us a call as I'm not much of a novelist. I hope this helps.
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Senior Member
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1,415 Posts
can't you guys just block off the wastegate and bov just to see if that is actually the problem?
 

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Team White
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727 Posts
No way to block off the wastegate that I can figure out but from what im reading if the regulator is turned all the way counter clockwise then its shutting down the wastegate for the most part.

What really gets me is that my truck ran perfect before it got the EGR delete and wastegate and i know fluke things happen but no one will take any credit that their parts might be causing the problems.
 

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Educated Amateur
Joined
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90 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
can't you guys just block off the wastegate and bov just to see if that is actually the problem?
Ive been dying to do this, bov is easy all i gotta do is shut off upfitter #1. Tried swapping the hose to the top Banjo fitting. But my leg just wont cooperate, and the dealer is buisy for a week!
 

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Justifiably Confused
Joined
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67 Posts
Blocking off the Wastegate

No way to block off the wastegate that I can figure out but from what im reading if the regulator is turned all the way counter clockwise then its shutting down the wastegate for the most part.

What really gets me is that my truck ran perfect before it got the EGR delete and wastegate and i know fluke things happen but no one will take any credit that their parts might be causing the problems.

If you have a set of EGR block off plates the plate that once went between the EGR down pipe and the first cooler is the same size and bolt pattern as the flange between the wastegate and the up pipe that feeds the wastegate. You just have to open up the bolt holes a little.
 

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Team White
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727 Posts
I really dont know how you would even attempt to do anything to the wastegate or use any block off plates with the cab on. There is zero space to work back there.
 

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Justifiably Confused
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67 Posts
Space ?

Perhaps, I will let you know as I am attempting to install the wastegate with the cab on. Doing it in steps. In looking at the area behind the turbo, being as tight at it is, I am 99 percent sure that there is enough room to loosen the two bolts that hold the wastegate to the up pipe and slide in a plate.

It looks doable with the downpipe in and even more so with the downpipe unclamped from the turbo and dropped down lower behind the motor.
 

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Team White
Joined
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727 Posts
Perhaps, I will let you know as I am attempting to install the wastegate with the cab on. Doing it in steps. In looking at the area behind the turbo, being as tight at it is, I am 99 percent sure that there is enough room to loosen the two bolts that hold the wastegate to the up pipe and slide in a plate.

It looks doable with the downpipe in and even more so with the downpipe unclamped from the turbo and dropped down lower behind the motor.
How will you possibly weld in the bung for the EBP and the dump pipe for the downpipe?
 

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Justifiably Confused
Joined
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67 Posts
Need Wastegate/controller help

How will you possibly weld in the bung for the EBP and the dump pipe for the downpipe?
I don't want to derail JYFARMER's thread but briefly....... The EBP sensor is already relocated to the bottom of the drivers side up pipe. There was plenty of room there to weld the bung in place and I used some 5/16" steel tubing and a flaring kit to provide a nice place to mount the sensor.

Now I can remove the EGR down pipe, both coolers, plug off the coolant lines, and place the wastegate where it needs to go. I will temporarily relocate the block off plate that once went between the EGR down pipe and the first cooler to between the up pipe and the wastegate. Thus blocking off exhaust from entering the wastegate temporarily.

I already had another "O" clamp welded into the dump pipe after the flex piece. This will allow me to install the dump pipe with the downpipe in place, after marking and cutting a hole in the downpipe for the dump. Once I am happy with the fit of the dump pipe, lightly spot weld in the dump pipe, remove the clamp. This will leave only a small portion of the dump pipe on the downpipe and I should be able to remove the two piece down pipe and permanently weld in the tacked portion of the dump pipe. Reinstall the down pipe, join together the two pieces of dump pipe and remove the blocking plate.

This is 85% theory as of today but I am pretty sure it will work. Once I have a success story I will post up some pics and procedures......if it works.

JYFARMER, sorry again for the momentary deviation from your thread.
 

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Educated Amateur
Joined
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90 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Its cool man, the more info the better. I took the turbos off cab on and was scared to death. Its not TERRIBLE. Just be sure if you take any exhaust pieces loose to use new gaskets and torque everything down right.
 

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Speed Junkie
Joined
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193 Posts
Sounds like to me that you guys may need a stronger WG spring. Even the best boost controller in the world won't work if you use to small of a spring in the WG. Just a thought anyway.
 

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Team White
Joined
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727 Posts
Sounds like to me that you guys may need a stronger WG spring. Even the best boost controller in the world won't work if you use to small of a spring in the WG. Just a thought anyway.
Thats what im screaming. I am going to be pretty upset if I was sent a part with the wrong spring and my truck has to have the cab removed again. :swear
 
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