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New 7.3 owner questions

3.1K views 13 replies 9 participants last post by  zpd307  
#1 ·
Hey folks... sorry if my questions have been answered elsewhere.

I have just purchased a 2001 F250 with the 7.3 diesel. I have owned a 6.6 duramax and currently own a 2010 6.4, so I'm not new to the diesel world. My questions center around seemingly 7.3 specific characteristics.

1. The OASIS report(thanks 00f3fiddy!) shows that the oil pan was replaced fairly recently(late '07) and the CPS sensor recall was performed('08). Nothing to do with the transmission showed up. Is this a good sign, or can I expect problems on this model year 4R100 in the near future? The truck has 90K on the clock, but has been plowed. When I first drove it, the transmission felt fine and still does, though I've only had it a few days.

2. Second, being used to the way the 6.4 starts(fires right up after wait to start light goes off), is the following normal for a 7.3? When the wait to start light goes off, it'll crank maybe 7-10 seconds before firing. When it fires, it doesn't stumble or run rough, but it seems to crank way longer than my 6.4(could be I'm just spoiled by the 6.4).

Thanks for the help, I really appreciate all of the time you folks donate to all of us out here. Keep up the good work, it does not go unappreciated!!
 
#2 ·
To answer your questions:

1) It's a best guess with the transmission. Your best bet is to take care of it and don't abuse the trans if you want it to live longer. If you're towing, don't let it "hunt" between 3rd and 4th. You can tow in overdrive all day long and it won't hurt a thing, but if the trans is upshifting and downshifting back and forth between 3rd and 4th while towing, lock out overdrive to save the transmission. You can also install a trans temp gauge to keep tabs on the temps.

2) 7-10 second crank times are not normal. 2 second crank times are normal. The injectors on these trucks require oil pressure of 400+ psi before they can fire, so it will never start as lightning quick as a Dmax or a 6.4L (both of those are common rail). However, 7-10 seconds is longer than normal and usually indicates a problem with building high oil pressure to fire the injectors. The thing is, does it have a harder time starting after it's sat for a while (cold engine), or when the engine is warm?
 
#4 ·
Mine has longer crank times when oil is dirty\old. but then I have 250xx miles too!
 
#5 ·
Be sure to look at the obvious. Are those batteries in good shape? My ol 94 has new Motorcraft batteries and fires up within 2 seconds of cranking even when cold and almost instantly when warm after light goes out.
 
#6 ·
On the trans question-I would recommend having a service done on it, change the fluid and filter. These are good transmissions and as long as you take car of them and not abuse them they will last a very long time. I agree with the above statement of get a temp gauge to monitor the temperature of your transmission.
 
#7 ·
Long crank times without stumble are most likely GPR related, it's a common wear item on the 7.3L engines. If you find it to be bad, get OEM and not aftermarket. When it comes to anything with electrons flowing thru it, OEM of go home (IMO).
 
#8 ·
I'm starting to think of going almost everything OEM these days. AFtermarket parts seem cheap as hell, I've been noticing alot of junk coming out of Napa.
 
#10 ·
First, thanks to everyone for the replies/help.

I've got a bit more info for ya... First, the truck sat a while before I bought it. Now, having driven it quite a lot today, here's the latest. When I first started it, same long crank condition(however, when it fired, it fired right up). Drove it around and noticed that on deceleration, such as coming up to a stop sign, it blew a fair amount of blue smoke(smelled like burnt oil). Driving it for a while longer, the condition improved but never really went away. The crank times are still a bit long it seems for a warm engine as well. I'll check crank times in the morning again when cold. Any thoughts?
 
#11 ·
hmm maybe O rings on the injectors? not sure but a guess, is the oil good? try changing it for 14 qts of new 15-40 and see if it helps just a thought, also maybe the fuel filter is dirty but like they said before most likely its taking a bit to build pressure.
 
#12 ·
The plot thickens...

I changed the oil, I used Rotella semi synthetic. I figured this would be a good choice to run through the motor for a bit before I went to 100% synthetic. The old oil was kinda dark, and it was foamy on top when drained. Other than that, it looked normal enough. I dumped a quart of ashless two cycle into a new full tank of fuel and added stanadyne diesel additive. I drove it around a little, and the smoking on decel is nearly gone, or so it seems. Every now and again when I stop and throw it in reverse, when parking or what not, I think I can see a bit of blue smoke but could be my imagination. Thing is, this morning it was 26 degrees, and it started great. Crank time was minimal and it idled smooth at startup. I thought changing the oil would make a difference, just didn't bank on quite this big a difference. Guess I'll run it and see what happens.

Thanks for all of the help everyone, the 7.3 will prove quite the learning experience for me.
 
#13 ·
I doubt you'll regret it! good motors!!!!
 
#14 ·
yep, these motors like new clean oil. as said before, the injectors need oil to fire. also make sure to change the fuel filters religiously. also get a 6.0 tranny cooler, your tranny will thank you! i wont see anything over 125 degrees now just driving around. i only saw 150 degrees pulling a 30 foot travel trailer. it is a direct bolt on, just need to splice in adapters for the larger rubber lines going to the cooler.