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I have an 06 F250 FX4 Crew Cab Lariat. I have owned diesels before, but they were all 7.3's. They were all great trucks and with the exception of an overheated wire harness never had to fix a thing! I have heard a lot of contraversy over the 6.0, but being a Ford guy, and having talked to a few diesel knowledgeable friends decided to take a chance on the 6.0. I have been told that in 06 they had worked the kninks out. My truck has 117k miles and seems to be in its prime. It runs great....no lag or hesitations, no blow by, and runs well altogether. All of the fluids are clean and clear. I have read on here that a lot of folks are doing EGR deletes and ARP studs. I understand this was a major concern for the early 6.0 but is this necessary in the 06's, or is it a precautionary based on the issues with the earlier models? Most of the issues I have noticed are on 03-05s. This truck will not be used for any major hauling in the near future, as it will be my fiances daily driver. She babies her vehichles, but if there is anything I should be concerned about......I would like to know. I am mechanically enclined, but most of my wrench time has been spent on gas engines (having never had any issues with the previous 7.3). Unfortunately were we have currently moved to, I do not have a work shop and am limited on resources for equipment. This being said any suggestions given please let me know what I am looking at time and labor wise. I look forward to hearing what anyone has to say on the matter and learning more from everyone here.

Thanks!
 

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As I learned, a MUST is to flush the Ford gold coolant out from the truck, with a
cleaner found at Cummins dealers called RESTORE. Replace/delete EGR cooler (with Bulletproof EGR Cooler if you need emissions) delete if you don't, change your oil cooler. Refill your cooling system with a HD Truck coolant such as Rotella ELC, CAT ELC, Fleetguard ELC, Fleetrite ELC, or Chevron Delo ELC and distilled water.

The silicates in the Ford coolant plug the factory EGR cooler, then the oil cooler, which eventually can rupture pushing coolant into the intake (headgaskets) or oil into the cooling system when the oil cooler leaks.
This is the major Achilles heel of the 6.0, and your '06 came from the factory with Ford coolant. Plan on doing this as soon as you can. I believe your truck is vulnerable for the STC fitting on the HPOP letting go as well, if it hasn't been upgraded with the new fitting. This will shut your truck down on the road. This should be done while doing the EGR/OIL cooler job. I have an '04 I purchased in November which I love. At my earliest convenience I did the described upgrades and haven't looked back. I did the work myself, the 6.0 is really not that awful to work on.

I'm sure others will chime in with other suggestions as well, what I suggest is the necessary minimum.


John
 

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Yes I would defently switch your coolant to a good ELC tht is Cat-1 rated and i would also install a coolant filter on it at the least. If you are not doing any hard towing or installing any kind of extream custom tune you head studs sould be good but i would think about doing the EGR delete kit and if you do the EGR delete you might as well replace the oil cooler. A nother thing you may want to do is install the new updated ford blue spring fuel regulator kit it takes about a hour to do and could save you big money on injectors down the road our trucks need 45psi to keep injectors from going out and many of our trucks with any kind of millage on them the factory kit is loosing pressure mine was at 38psi and i only had 75K on it i think it is a must for any truck running the factory fuel system here is the ford part number 3C3Z-9T517-AG
 

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The number one thing on the 6.0l is keep up on the maintenance. Oil, filter, fuel filter, coolant filter, etc. if you don't need the EGR cooler then delete it. If you do, a coolant filter will help greatly in keeping a system clean, but you need to get it clean first. I have heard great things about the flushing with RESTORE. But if your oil cooler is already plugged then the damage is done and a new oil cooler should be in your near future.
 

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you might want to get an oasis report on your truck. It will give you some insight as to what has been done to the truck, like the updated STC and such. replace the coolant add a coolant filter and replace the oil cooler (not the whole housing just the cooler) might be inorder. Also remember to run the truck through its paces from time to time that VGT needs to get a work out.

Good luck with the truck
 

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I have an 06 F250 FX4 Crew Cab Lariat. I have owned diesels before, but they were all 7.3's. They were all great trucks and with the exception of an overheated wire harness never had to fix a thing! I have heard a lot of contraversy over the 6.0, but being a Ford guy, and having talked to a few diesel knowledgeable friends decided to take a chance on the 6.0. I have been told that in 06 they had worked the kninks out. My truck has 117k miles and seems to be in its prime. It runs great....no lag or hesitations, no blow by, and runs well altogether. All of the fluids are clean and clear. I have read on here that a lot of folks are doing EGR deletes and ARP studs. I understand this was a major concern for the early 6.0 but is this necessary in the 06's, or is it a precautionary based on the issues with the earlier models? Most of the issues I have noticed are on 03-05s. This truck will not be used for any major hauling in the near future, as it will be my fiances daily driver. She babies her vehichles, but if there is anything I should be concerned about......I would like to know. I am mechanically enclined, but most of my wrench time has been spent on gas engines (having never had any issues with the previous 7.3). Unfortunately were we have currently moved to, I do not have a work shop and am limited on resources for equipment. This being said any suggestions given please let me know what I am looking at time and labor wise. I look forward to hearing what anyone has to say on the matter and learning more from everyone here.

Thanks!
What everyone has said is true but before you spend a lot of $$$$ on a lot of things get a set of gauges so you know where you are on EOT-ECT it's a cxxp shoot if you have any problems the max difference in temps is 15* i think if you are around 10* your coolers are starting to get plugged. It has to be warmed up about 30 minutes freeway speed doing 55-60mph then you check it with something like the Edge insight works well for this + it is a great tool.
She babies her vehichles, but if there is anything I should be concerned about......I would like to know. Well throw the baby out with the bath water because if she babies it you will be working on it all the time the 6.0s are made to work so once a week after it warms up drive it like she stole it or the EGR valve and turbo vaines will soot up on you add centane boost to the fuel to help with this. The max boost on a stock motor is 28lbs or you may stretch the bolts then you will have to add ARP studs and to do this you will have to pull the cab $$$$.
2 stroker
 
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Discussion Starter #7
2 Stroker, appreciate the feed back. I was curious about how aggressive to be with these diesels. I believe in driving like it has a purpose......she wants to use it as a grocery getter!
 

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2 Stroker, appreciate the feed back. I was curious about how aggressive to be with these diesels. I believe in driving like it has a purpose......she wants to use it as a grocery getter!
If you use it as a grocery getter you will be working on it all the time they need to work!! I use my 97 as a daily driver and when my 06 is running it is pulling my 14k 5er i take it out about once a week to keep it in shape because if they set the turbo will rust. They are maxed out on HP so if you do not have deep pockets leave it stock just mods to keep it running safe.
2 stroker:wave
 

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Just remember if you have to do ARP studs you will have to pull the cab start small and go up if your cooler are good (gauges) the ones on the dash are a joke when they move it is to late the only one that is right on is the boost. do a coolent flush but you need to know your temps because if they are close it could get bad real quick they could plug. Here is the flush


ELC is the coolant recommended and used by International for this engine. .


Coolant Flush for changing to ELC

Drain coolant by removing lower radiator hose. Drain block from plug on drivers side of the block. Remove the thermostat. Replace plug in block and put lower hose back on. Put thermostat housing back on without thermostat. Fill with distilled water. run for 5 minutes then drain as above..Fill and run 5 more minutes drain. Put in 3/4 to 1 gallon of Restore an top with distilled water. Drive it for an 60-90 minutes then drain. Flush 2 times with distilled water or whatever it takes to come clear. Put 2 qts of VC-9 or 3/4 to 1 gallon of Restore+ cost less and fill with distilled water. Drive it for about 60-90 minutes. Drain and flush after. Flush 3 more times with distilled water untill it come out clean. Replace thermostat or put in a new one. Put hose back, make sure block plug is tight. Add 3.5 gallons of ELC concentrate and top off with distilled water. Make sure to run engine for 5 minutes between flushes to circulate the water good. Have heater on set to hi while doing this to flush the heater core too. new t/stat from Ford it should all come together (housing-t/stat-o-ring) in a box. The part number is RT-1169
Have a look here:bdh
This is very important information check link at bottom
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gwar
Does the lack of silicate have any adverse affects??? Not to ask a dumb question but why would ford continue to use a coolant that causes serious issues with its engines???

Does the 6.0L come from the factory with the ford gold or something from international???

(QUOTE) Posted by PGreenSVT at Powerstroke.org

Can't explain away Ford's logic. International uses Fleetrite ELC. Think about it. Whats is another silicate? Sand immediately come to mind. What is sand? It's an abrasive. Besides that it turns to a gell from the heat as it goes through the egr cooler trying to carry off the heat from high egt's resulting in the sludge that clogs the oil cooler. There is a substanial body of evidence supporting this.

Not having silicates is a positive thing. It has no adverse affects. ELC coolant is good for 300k miles without any additives and extendable to 600k with an additive pack at 300k. The new Delo ELC is good for 750k miles or 8 years extendable to 1 million miles.

I think it pretty much speaks for itself.
__________________
I'm on a campaign man. That Gold cxxp is killing our trucks and people need to know. It is the cause of the biggest problems we have with the 6.0 and the bad reputation the 6.0 has. And it is pretty cheap and easy to eliminate. People should know this. So yeah, I'm beating that drum. The other drum is the need to monitor ECT and EOT before you blow your egr cooler and head gaskets.

I just did a flush with Fleetrite Restore, VC9, lots of flushing, installed a coolant filter, and switched to ELC. Im curious to see what my coolant filter will look like after the first 500 miles, I know there is still most likely some cxxp in there still as I still have the stock EGR and oil cooler at 34k miles but I doubt there will be anywhere the abount that we see out of most of the posts with opened up coolant filters.

I recently installed the DieselSite.com coolant filter kit on my 2006 6.0. The kit came complete with everything you need and also came with the new billet aluminum filter head, looks really sharp.

PGreenSVT, dude you need to change your screen name to "ELC FOR LIFE!"

But I agree I just switched to ELC also, either way it cant be any worse than the gold, for those of you that have doubts just scrape the bottom of your degas bottle, thats the same cxxp thats clogging your oil cooler. When I did my flush I pulled my degas bottle and scrubbed it with a bottle brush, that cxxp is like glue.
also read this

(QUOTE) Posted by PGreenSVT Powerstroke.org

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Here is the deal with the 6.0. Any good tuner (person writing your tunes) is not going to give you a tune that is going to tear up your truck. There are trucks all over the place running 400-420 rwhp with 750-800 rwtq all day long without problems.

Yes the 6.0 is known to blow head gaskets. This is why it happens. The Ford Gold coolant contains silicates. The silicates are not able to handle high EGT's generated by a good load or relatively high boost when run through the EGR cooler. They break down into a jell like sludge and fall out of suspension. This crud gets caught up in the tiny coolant passageways of the oil cooler. As the cooler clogs up it restricts coolant flow to the egr cooler. Now the egr cooler doesn't have enough coolant to carry off the heat generated by high EGT's. The limited amount of coolant in the egr cooler flash boils causing high pressure in the cooling system and the truck pukes coolant from the degas bottle due to the pressure. (it has to go somewhere)
Your uninformed Powerstroke owner is not monitoring his coolant temps and oil temps so he doesn't know whats going on and he keeps driving it this way. The problem get worse, the pressure causes the egr cooler to rupture. Now the egr cooler is leaking coolant into the intake manifold which then runs into the cylinders. Again the high combustion temps cause the coolant to vaporize. This causes unacceptably high cylinder pressure, the TTY head bolts stretch due to the additional pressure and there go your head gaskets.

Ok now you know the problem. Here's the cure. Get a good engine monitoring solution like the Edge Insight so that you can monitor your ECT and EOT. If those temps get more than 15* apart at normal cruising when at normal operating temperature your oil cooler is clogging up. Rebuild it now to prevent all that down stream damage from occurring. Flush that Ford Gold coolant cxxp out of your engine with a couple bottles of Restore. This is made specifically to clean out that silicate residue. Now refill it with a silicate free Cat EC-1 rated ELC coolant. This removes the silicates that clog the oil cooler from the equation. If you live in an area where you don't have smog inspections delete the egr system. If you can't delete it replace the egr cooler with the cooler manufactured by Bulletproof Diesel. This is vastly superior to the Ford oem egr cooler and it will not fail on you. If you find that you need to replace head gaskets replace the TTY head bolts with ARP studs and use black onyx (Victor Reinz) head gaskets. If you have to replace the egr cooler always replace the oil cooler. That is the source of the problem.

Now that you have addressed the common problems that scare the hell out of people, get an SCT tuner (i like the X3) and install some custom tunes and drive the heck out of it. DO NOT baby it. The Powerstroke hates this and will rebel with turbo issues.

Turbo issues are also common repair points with the 6.0. People like to complain that it's because the VGT turbos are pieces of junk. This is not so. The VGT vanes in the turbo need to be exercised regularly. This means making them go through there full range of motion. So put your foot in it regularly and let is see some full boost runs. That will keep your VGT vanes from getting all sooted up and freezing up because of the soot. Again, that is what happens when you baby it. Put you foot in it and you will have less problems. Lay out of it and try to milk it for mileage like you would a gasser and you're going to have turbo issues. Don't let it sit either. That is also the kiss of death to the turbo. The unison ring rusts up and again you have turbo problems. So now that you know you need to give your turbo a regular work out to keep it happy, give it a proper cool down as well. Just whipping into your parking place and shutting it down will lead to coking the bearings and again major turbo issues. Running a good synthetic oil will help here immensely because it handles heat so much better and resists coking. But always let your turbo have time to cool down. This is one of the reasons you need a Pyrometer (EGT gauge), Let the EGT come down to 350* before shutting your truck off. This only takes a couple of minutes, especially if you take it easy on it for the last couple minutes of your trip. If this is too much hassle for you get a turbo timer that will automatically delay shutdown when you turn off the key to allow the turbo to cool down.

Injectors. Fords injection system HEUI fires the injectors with High Pressure Oil, to the tune of 4,000psi at Wide Open Throttle. Maintenance is critical here so you can not let your oil maintenance slide like you can on a gasser. It will kill your injectors. The injectors also are known to suffer from something that we call stiction. That is when the oil side spool valve of the injects hangs up or sticks when cold until the truck warms up. I believe this is caused by varnish buildup that is common to dino oils, especially those containing paraffin. Using a good synthetic oil will take care of that because it actually cleans the engine as it lubricates. If you do find yourself with some injector stiction add a couple of bottles of Rev-X to your oil. It has cleared up 99.9% of the trucks it has been used on. 2 bottles run around $70. A new injector is about $250-$290. Be anal about keeping your oil clean and fresh and changing your fuel filters regularly. The other thing that kills injectors is low fuel pressure. The fuel pressure needs to stay above 45psi at all times and is typically set around 52 psi from the factory. Well the Factory fuel pressure regulator spring is weak and looses it's tension over time and can't maintain adequate fuel pressure. There is an updated rebuild kit that uses a better, stronger spring. Installing this spring will bring your fuel pressure up to about 62 psi and solve that. Get a fuel pressure gauge. It's important.

So that covers the frequent complaints with the 6.0. They are all well known at this point as are the solutions. Does it suck we have to fix Ford's blunders? Heck yes it does. But again we know how and once done you will have a very reliable robust truck that is well worth the effort. So address the issues as you can and enjoy your truck. It is a dynamite vehicle. I love mine.

If you like pictures have a look here.

http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/6-0-motor-problems/149749-replaced-oil-cooler-still-difference-temps-21.html#post2063212
2 stroker:wave
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I will probably use it to haul every once in a while.....have the '01 I use the majority of the time. Will definitley be running it thru the paces though, thanks.

With the list of things to do (thanks for the flush directions by the way), what would be the order to addres? Taking time and $$$ into consideration.....remember I just bought the thing! Still learning about working on diesels. Outside of cold air install, tuner, and exhaust on my '01 have never had to do a thing to it in 173k miles.....knock on wood. Can you give me an idea of easiest to most difficult. Main thing I am looking at doing is EGR delete. I keep seeing cooler and total delete packages. Is one better than the other?
 

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I will probably use it to haul every once in a while.....have the '01 I use the majority of the time. Will definitley be running it thru the paces though, thanks.

With the list of things to do (thanks for the flush directions by the way), what would be the order to addres? Taking time and $$$ into consideration.....remember I just bought the thing! Still learning about working on diesels. Outside of cold air install, tuner, and exhaust on my '01 have never had to do a thing to it in 173k miles.....knock on wood. Can you give me an idea of easiest to most difficult. Main thing I am looking at doing is EGR delete. I keep seeing cooler and total delete packages. Is one better than the other?
If you do not have to go through any DEQ testing then a EGR delete would be good, if i was going to get any thing i would get it here
http://www.bulletproofdiesel.com/ but like i said you need gauge to know where you are on temps this will give you a better handle on things.
2 stroker
 
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