The Diesel Garage banner

1 - 20 of 89 Posts

·
Stuck in Commiefornia...
Joined
·
1,296 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So I used to have a white 2005 F-350 CCLB 6.0L ZF6 4x4. I sent the truck to auction in September 2012 with a possible bad lifter and a bad taste for Ford. Took the money from the truck and broke a 40 year family run of exclusively FoMoCo product ownership and bought a 2004 Cadillac CTS-V, and all it's 400hp LS6, 6-speed, 14" Brembo brakes, 4-door awesomeness. Love it., and it mostly cured my 6.0L blues. Mostly.

Well, I still have a 30' 5th wheel, and my current job will pay me to provide my own truck. And I've been seriously missing having a truck for 6 months or more, so I started looking seriously this past summer for the right truck. I found a winner the end of last month. It's an early 1999 F-350 Lariat CCLB 7.3L 4R100 4x4 and its black. Had a family member go test drive it and bought it sight unseen.

Picked the truck up last weekend, its not nearly as powerful as the 6.0 was, and the E99 turning radius sucks, but its a straight rust free truck with 133k on the odometer, a fresh Ford installed HPOP, new torque converter, and freshly resealed rear axle with fresh Ford oe brakes on all four corners. There a a couple minor cosmetic issues that are from age and normal wear and tear, I'll take care of those.

Yesterday I got busy. I installed the Pro-Tech headache rack and tool box from my 2005, and of course my 5" dual stack kit. My Labs came out and chased away the kitty, so it's straight piped in the process.

Planned mods before Spring 2014:
Donaldson air intake kit
Boost/EGT/TransTemp Gauges
Mild Tuning, probably SCT so I can do my thing
'05 Harley head lamps
'05 Lariat grille
'05 Chrome bumper with black filler
'11 4x4 front air dam.

Long term mods planned:
2005+ axles/steering/suspension
4-6" lift with 4-link/coil over front
3.31:1 gears with a GV under drive
17" or 18" wheels and 35" or 37" tires
Pocket Flares and N-Fab w/bed step
Sprayed bed liner and rockers

Sent from the frustrating AutoGuide.com Free Appthat won't let you post pictures
 

·
Stuck in Commiefornia...
Joined
·
1,296 Posts
Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
The AG app sucks for posting pictures. And this new site ownership shut off the Tapatalk ap that actually worked.




Sent from the crappy AutoGuide.com Free App
 

·
LLROT
Joined
·
31 Posts
Why 3.31:1 ring and pinions? And why the air dam? Just curious
 

·
Senior Member
Joined
·
1,324 Posts
WELCOME BACK!!!!!!!:clap
 

·
Senior Member
Joined
·
1,324 Posts
Oh yeah and

:nopics

Sorry Had to do it. :haha
 

·
Stuck in Commiefornia...
Joined
·
1,296 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Well, the air dam and the 3.31s are for the mostly highway miles the truck will see. The Gear Vendor under drive will be for towing to split the gears. The nice thing will be that with 3.31s I'll be able to tow in 3rd under or 3rd direct, and have good RPM without taxing the factory overdrive quite so heavily.

And yeah, what's the point in an AP that gives the option to post pictures if you can't post pictures. Can't say I have a very high opinion of Autoguide.


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

·
Stuck in Commiefornia...
Joined
·
1,296 Posts
Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)


It would almost have been easier to get a Federal budget passed than it was to get a stupid picture uploaded to this site. The Autoguide app sucks. I had to upload the image through the main website. But here it is!
 

·
Stuck in Commiefornia...
Joined
·
1,296 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Well, I've been using the new truck a bit. Runs good but the truck likes to stretch its legs a little too long in 3rd gear and I think I can do a little better than I'm doing on fuel mileage, getting about 16mpg right now.

The truck had a set of brand new tires from the dealer, but they were nothing special Chinese made M+S rated highway rib type 285/75-16. I decided that the Lariat wheels and new tires would look nice and maybe help sell the Excursion, and pulled the brushed aluminum XLT wheels and 285/75-16 Cooper A/T2s on the truck, kind of a cheat move to get a seasoned tire on to bump up the efficiency.

So the stock shift points suck. I couldn't help myself and I busted out my SCT SF/X3 and tossed a tow tune in the truck this morning. I'll bee stepping that up to a street tune tomorrow and then checking the fuel economy for the next week.

I know that for the 7.3 the mass consensus is that chips are superior to programmers, but I had the handheld laying around. I also have a couple SCT chips and cables with switches. Being that I've done a fair amount of tuning, I'll get around to doing my own and transition to a switch chip shortly.


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 
  • Like
Reactions: harry6.0

·
Stuck in Commiefornia...
Joined
·
1,296 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Ok, had to go for a short drive last night. Decided to toss the street tune in and give it a try. What a difference. Runs about like my 6.0L did with a tow tune. There is a hint of smoke, just a small puff on takeoff, and I don't want any more than that for a variety of reasons. And typical of a tuned diesel, the engine sounds smoother, cleaner, coming up through the rpm range. Other improvements are throttle response relative to pedal input, it's more balanced overall. I also increased the shift firmness and it now shifts like it means it.

Still have the performance tune to try. I probably will. I'm not looking for power so much as a bump in efficiency. So whichever tune nets the best drivability and fuel economy will be in the truck for a while.



Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

·
Stuck in Commiefornia...
Joined
·
1,296 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Basic update:

Previous work truck was a company supplied 2012 GMC 1500 single cab short box 4.3 V6 Vortec with an auto and 3.31s. Cheap little truck, 9 months in the oil field and 25k and it was showing its age and not holding up to the usage too well. That truck consumed about 9.5-11 gallons of fuel per day depending on how busy things were.

So part of the reason I bought this truck was for the purpose of using it as my work vehicle. I'm reimbursed by the hour for it, so getting the right truck was key, I really wanted an '04.5-07 Ram with a 5.9, knowing I could manage respectable fuel consumption levels with only basic modifications. I knew that a 7.3 was an option if I couldn't find the Dodge but I had to find a truck that was still in good shape, so when this truck presented itself, I knew I was onto something.

So I've run the truck three days. Three afternoon tours and a day shift. So far it appears that this truck is capable of bettering the GMC in fuel usage by perhaps as much as 2 gallons per day!

I'm very pleased so far.
 

·
Stuck in Commiefornia...
Joined
·
1,296 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Well, an update to the progress of the truck. Due to an unexpected loss of employment, things have been a little slower than I hoped. So far the truck has remained about the same as previously posted.

I had to install my 5th wheel hitch in order to move my trailer last months after I was layed off. I found it interesting that the '99 bed has only six holes where the previous '05 truck had eight holes. The '99 has cables to retain the bed through the bed crossmember to the frame rail. On further inspection however, I discovered the holes are in the frame rails for the bed bolts on the later beds. Having saved my mounting system from the '05, I simply modified the '99 bed by making two 1-1/8" holes where they would be in a later bed. And with that my hitch is installed just the way I like it.

Now a tuning update. The canned SCT Street tune has been running well but to tow the trailer I swapped in the SCT Tow tune for the trip. It did just fine and then I swapped it back to the Street tune. Fuel economy with the Street tune has been really decent overall, with day trips to town and some city traffic resulting in about 16mpg all combined. Highway trips of 250 miles or more with minimal city driving the truck is getting right at 20mpg. All hand calculated.

So today I swapped in the SCT Performance tune. Definitely makes more power than the Street tune, and has a bit of smoke on hard takeoff, but good manners, and shifts as well as either of the other tunes. The big difference seems to be the fuel economy, ad driving it exactly the same as the Street tune 80 miles of driving shows less movement on the needle than the Street tune. I'll give it some time and report further.
 
  • Like
Reactions: harry6.0

·
Stuck in Commiefornia...
Joined
·
1,296 Posts
Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
This place is dead.

Anyway, a buddy who races desert trucks had a bunch of spare Hella driving lamps laying around and asked me if I wanted any spares because I already installed two on my front bumper back in November. I said sure and Monday I finally got around to swinging by his place and picking them up. Had a little time tonight, so I got out the drill and measuring tape and went nuts.



So the project is nearing completion, I just have to wire up the center and outboard lights. Then I'm going to install an old school high beam foot switch to turn on the primary two and a secondary dash switch for the other three. The two that are currently wired up are on key on power already, so I'll just use the foot switch as an interrupter. It's going to be nice in the desert at night, and fingers crossed, if I can get one of the jobs I'm after.
 
  • Like
Reactions: harry6.0

·
Senior Member
Joined
·
3,051 Posts
Nice lights Idaho, good score as those are not cheap. I've been meaning to hook up an old school foot switch myself for my lights as well, makes it much easier for on/off while driving back roads. Main thing around these parts is large wildlife damaging your vehicle, hit a moose or elk at 50mph and even a superduty will feel the hurt.

Good luck on the new job prospect!

Harry
 
  • Like
Reactions: IdahoF350

·
Stuck in Commiefornia...
Joined
·
1,296 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
More on the lighting. Wired up the outer two and center lamp this afternoon. You can see EVERYTHING when they are all on. Too bad it's illegal to drive with them all on in CA. I've got a foot switch for an older Ford I'm going to dig out tomorrow. I've got to figure the system out electrically, to make sure it will do what I want. I'll draw out the circuits and even post them once I get it working right.

The foot switch will be nice, I hate taking my hand off the wheel to turn off the driving lights even just going in a straight line. The next step after getting this all sorted will be converting to 2005-2007 head lamp assemblies with HIDs.
 
  • Like
Reactions: harry6.0

·
Senior Member
Joined
·
3,051 Posts
My 5in long range KC's are wired into a relay and fuse. I can only imagine how bright yours must be. Up here in WA state and Idaho, you don't have to keep the lights covered, but they are still illegal to operate on public roadways, at least the high wattage ones like mine 100-130w. Quality Xenon and now LED are the future, but they don't come cheap, at least for now. Nice thing about my KC's is you can get a bulb almost anywhere, and they light up the landscape decent enough for me, but man I hate fumbling for my switch, gotta get the foot one going soon.

Harry
 
  • Like
Reactions: IdahoF350

·
Stuck in Commiefornia...
Joined
·
1,296 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Well, I wired up the center and outboard lights last week and worked on adjusting them but I couldn't get the light pattern the way I wanted it. As it turns out, the lights I have produce a light pattern about 25' wide per lamp at 50 yards, and the lights I was given produce a distinct focused spot beam all the way out to about 250 yards. With the lights mixed, there was no getting the pattern right with all five on, and I plan to use them at night off road so this is somewhat important to me. So unhappy with the pattern, I have moved the lights around, the wide beams are now outside and the three focused lamps are in the middle.

When I was there I made a harness because the wiring just wasn't right, and it wouldn't line up to the new arrangement. So I have all of the lights grounded at their mounting points to the bumper and I'm running 10ga wire from the lights to the relays. The two lights on the outside go to a 20/25A relay and the three in the middle go to a 30/40A relay. The relays are wired through fuse holders to the battery positive (+) post with the outer pair on a 15A fuse and the center three on a 25A fuse, fuses are cheaper than lights or relays so I always run less fuse than relay in a circuit. I then ran wiring from the relays to the pass through wires on the harness by the cowl (I was glad to see Ford included these as far back as the Early-'99 models). Under the dash, the power source for the switch(es)/relays is a key on accessory fuse. I had initially planned to use multiple switches, wired to a foot switch, and out to the relays. The foot switch is still very much in the works, but I found a universal pull type headlight switch for $4 at Autozone and it spoke to me, as a one switch one hole solution, and so I wired it up and it works great. All that remains is the foot switch.

So back to the light pattern, once I got everything rearranged and wired up, I set out after dark and made some adjustments. I'm very pleased with the light pattern now. The two outer lamps lay down a nice flood of light inside 50 yards and past that out to that 250 yard mark I have significant light to see where I'm going in the dark.
 
  • Like
Reactions: harry6.0

·
Senior Member
Joined
·
1,324 Posts
How many amps will you be drawing with them all on? Planning to upgrade the charging system?
 

·
Stuck in Commiefornia...
Joined
·
1,296 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Depending in voltage, 5*55w @12v is less than 24 amps. 5*55w @ 13.2v is less than 22 amps. So, it's not as bad as it seems. 2*55w @ 12v is only 9.2 amps, so really manageable on the stock charging system under normal circumstances.

When I do the '05-'07 front end conversion I'll probably move up to 6 lamps, unless financial circumstances change dramatically and then I'll be going to a legitimate off road combo with 5 7" HIDs and a 36-48" LED light bar. It's a sickness.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Weld engineer

·
Stuck in Commiefornia...
Joined
·
1,296 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
Working on the truck today! Woohoo!

Removed the stock running boards, didn't care for them much and the drivers side was previously bent. Knocked about 20lbs of caked on mud in the process that I couldn't get to last time I pressure washed under there because the running boards were in the way.

Under hood services include an oil change with 15 quarts of Delo 400LE 15w-40 and a Motorcraft FL-1995 filter, along with tossing in a new fuel filter and cleaning out the fuel bowl at the same time.



Next up, I'll be picking up some mandrel bends and building a 4" air intake to replace the stock air box. The current stock E99 box and whatever filter was in it set the restriction meter on any hard acceleration even with stock tuning. As a quick and dirty temporary solution I have a used K&N cone filter on the stock tube, but I'll be switching to something like the popular Napa 6637 filter once I've fabricated a tube and filter shield.
 

·
Stuck in Commiefornia...
Joined
·
1,296 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
Speaking of fabricating things, I'm also in the process of designing a proper set of bolt-on radius arm and track bar brackets to work seemlessly with the '05+ axle swap on the '98-04 production frames. I've got the designs basically figured out, so I'll be modeling them with he help of an engineer friend, along with their stock counterparts, and running stress and failure analysis on them. Once everything passes "engineering" I'm going to build a couple prototype sets to test on my Early-'99 F-350 and a buddy's '03 7.3L F-350. If it became as simple as a bolt on swap with the correct brackets, I think the swap to a coil sprung axle would be more popular.
 
1 - 20 of 89 Posts
Top