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Oil Guard install for the 6.0. Quite different from the 7.3 I had.
Not to sure if it’s a big deal but there are some cautions you should be aware of doing this install.

First, ditch the push loc hose it comes with and buy some good stainless steel braided hoses. You can get it in tow varieties. A cotton/nylon covered stainless braid or a plan stainless outer covering. Very inexpensive insurance against plumbing related engine damage. The push loc is rated for 300 PSI, its just not the best in my opinion.
A source of hoses could be from Jegs, Summit, Aircraft spruce or your local hydraulic line assembler.

The instructions with the kit are way too vague, and a little to impractical for longevity.
They suggest you install the oil guard housing down on the passenger frame and route the supply and return lines down the passenger side of the engine bay. This in my opinion is a recipe for disaster later on down the road. It places hoses to close to HOT exhaust components, to close to sharp edges, and has minimum places to safely mount the hoses.

The best alternate route is to run the supply and return lines across the engine bay. The return can be safely clamped to the large plastic wire chase that is just above the turbo. There the supply line can join up next and be clamped side by side to the return line. Take them both across the coolant return reservoir, clamping the lines using existing holes in the metal support structure for the tank. Then go just above and across the rear of the brake fluid reservoir, (be sure to allow enough clearance to prevent the stainless braided hoses from touching the plastic reservoir) turn south and rubber clamp the two lines to the large power steering hose. Then route them down between the frame and the plastic fender liner. There are holes there for clamps or other attaching devices and still provide clearance from the frame so no chaffing can start. The oil guard housing will mount right up to the front running board mount on the driver’s side. I mounted mine with the hose connections facing the rear to prevent road debris from possibly creating problems.

Once all is connected it is important to seat the oil filer correctly in the stock housing or you will get zero flow through the oil guard system. I like to check flow and it was a good thing I did, because the factory filter was not seated down right to allow flow through the cap to the oil guard, the oil guard comes with a special replacement oil filer cap that is plumbed to accept an outlet line. It is important to listen or feel for the filter to seat and close the drain valve. After it seats you will get plenty of flow and pressure.
The return line uses a replacement oil filler cap with a line plumbed in to allow return oil to flow back in the engine.
Do a good run to check for leaks and proper oil fill? I had to add just less than three quarts after all was done and leaks stopped. My test for flow line popped off and we had a bleeder that shot oil across the driveway. Remember to re-check all fittings and hoses in a few days for leaks or problems.



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I did this install last March and after installation and testing, took it for a test drive. At about 1 1/2 miles, oil pressure started dropping then went to zero. Further checking found that I had zero flow through the Oilguard system (I installed an oil pressure and temp gauge at the same time).

Long story short: Wix and other type oil filters will NOT work with the Oilguard oil filter cap. You must use the Motorguard/OEM "flattop" type oil filters. This was confirmed with the factory and with OEM oil filter installation in my truck.

Good luck.

Al
 
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