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P0263 code, -2 outside, airdog II

5K views 22 replies 6 participants last post by  Levi'sford 
#1 ·
I think I've gelled up again. This time throwing the code listed above after truck started to die after trying to drive. It starts fine, idled for about 10-15 minutes, tried to drive and it started to lose power and chug. Fuel was treated with RevX winter and Archoil. I've gelled up twice before and have never thrown this code. I noticed the other day when I started it about 16 degrees without block heater plugged in it started lopping. Eventually it stopped and ran fine. No codes then. I'm gonna change filters and run some diesel 911 through it. Do you think gelled fuel code cause the code? I'm at 109,000 miles on original injectors. Thx. Levi.
 
#2 ·
Your injectors should be good. I have 130,000 miles on mine and they are going strong. This code is for a faulty number 1 injector or a bad contribution from #1 injector. A clogged injector would cause this. I would do what you propose.
 
#3 ·
I left it plugged in. I'm gone until Thursday so I'll change the filters and add some 911. I need to figure out how to keep from gelling so easily. The Air Dig has a 2 micron filter. What was the stock set up? I saw lots of 6.0s running around today. Some looked like they had been parked outside and not in a heated garage. What effect will tuning have in cold starts? I'm running Grarheads SRL+.
 
#4 ·
I think the stock filters are 10 on the rail and 5 on the engine.

Get some of your fuel and do a cloud test with it in a sealed container in a deep freeze. It was 14 today here and I always use PS white bottle in the winter and get the same "premium" diesel from a local place that is claimed to be treated with Shaeffers. I use Archoil and white bottle. In original or metal container.........:roflol:
 
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#5 ·
Warmed up to 10 today over here also. Not using anything but AR6200 and treated pump fuel.

My early 03' has the HFCM heater element, they eliminated this feature on later yr models, not sure why, as it seems like it should be a must have function on all yr models.

Bottom line is, the winterized ulsd no.2 fuel is not up to spec for the climate conditions in many regions of the country.

For Levi's issue, if the Airdog 2 micron system is mounted near or where the HFCM is/was, then it will gel much easier and sooner than the stock 10 micron setup. Need to heat that Airdog filtration setup somehow.

I use these...http://www.wildbeaks.com/Farm-Innov...4Zs71qw6dr-wL-uzE5DIN4QAaN6g23eCzsBoCqBrw_wcB
in the barn stall water tanks, they keep the ice from forming and are flexable and able to wrap around a device like the Airdog dual canisters. Would just need some type of power inverter like one f these...http://www.ebay.com/sch/Power-Inverters-/58020/i.html
to run the heater power cord.

There are probably many other ways to heat the Airdog system, but I believe that is likely the root cause of why your fuel is gelling prematurely in comparison to other 6.0L trucks.

Only time will tell if any injector damage was done once you get the fuel circulating correctly and the engine running as well as possible.

Harry
 
#6 · (Edited)
Harry, they deleted it because of the belief it was causing more of the slime that would build up in the water drain cavity, keeping the WIF light on and reducing the effectiveness of water separation.

Harry is right that the smaller micron filters are more prone to gelling up with the wax under colder temps. Thats why the larger 10 micron filters are typically used at the pumps and the 2 to 5 micron filters up at the motor with or with a fuel heater up there. Racor has/used to have optional fuel filter heaters for their diesel units (had one on my 7.3), but not useable for other manufacturers units.
 
#7 ·
Racor rates their secondary furl filter at 2 microns. The Ford spec sheet on the secondary filter states " removal of 98% of particles 4 microns and bigger"

Levi'sford - are you monitoring fuel pressure? Those Airdog pumps have a track record of letting fuel into the motor and apparently the motor's brushes aren't all that sturdy.
 
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#8 ·
Too late to edit my post above, hate you can't do that.

My filter was not a Racor but a Dahl, popular at the time, and you could get a 2, 10 or 30 micron filters. The guys who got the 2 micron used to gel up.
 
#9 ·
I just ordered a 10 micron filter for the Airdog on the frame. The system still retains the OEM filter up top. I'll see if that works. Hopefully tomorrow I'll have a chance to run some 911 through it and see if the injectors are ok. Aside from a hard start, rough idle, and an obvious code is there anything I should watch for to indicate possible injector damage? Sees a lot of folks have injector issues, but we've never replaced one on the 3 6.0s we've had. We do regular maintenance though. Thanks again.
 
#10 ·
I'd be a little concerned about the cylinder 1 imbalance/contribution code as I'm having a hard time seeing fuel gelling causing that. Any chance of getting a fuel system pressure reading off that regulated return system?
 
#11 · (Edited)
I dont have a fuel pressure gauge yet, definitely on my list to do.

On edit I seem to remember a gauge that came with the regulated return that attaches to the system under the hood. When do I want to take the reading. Start up? While idling? What Pressure am I looking for?
 
#12 ·
45-75 psi is the spec range, key on engine off, or engine running, should be the same pressures in general. Ideal is 55-60psi ranges or higher, never want to see below 45psi or above 75psi. When under hard accel you will normally see a slight drop from say 65 to 60 psi. When it's cold out the thickening of the fuels viscosity will make the pressures jump 5-10 psi from the warmer normal fuel pressure averages.

With my stock fuel system and the blue spring pressure regulator upgrade, I can see 80 psi on cold start in cold weather, then it drops to 72psi after the engine and fuel warm up to operating temps.

I'm betting the new Airdog 10 micron filter you get will help tremendously. I didn't know they had choices for that. Hopefully everything smooths back out to normal engine operations.

Happy new years everyone!

Harry
 
#13 ·
And if your filter is clogged due to gelling the pressure will drop.

Happy new year.
 
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#15 ·
Just got back from Disneyland and had a chance to change my filters. Put in the 10 micron from Airdog. It was 50 degrees and truck seemed to run fine. I will check fuel pressure and make sure it's ok. Dang rear pinon is leaking again. This will be the 5th one I've had put in over 9 years. Any ideas as to how to make it stop?
 
#16 · (Edited)
Thanks for the update Levi. Glad truck is running ok. Output flange that u-joint and seal ride on may also need replacement along with another new seal. I've seen the inside splines of the flange or the inner flat surface become worn on the flange, then when it's tightenend down it's not flush and centered, which wears out the seal.

Harry
 
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#19 ·
Warmer today. KOEO after truck warned up is 47.4. Idle warmed up at 54.6 to 55.2. It did drop to 46.? Under hard acceleration. I've got an air dog and regulated return. No blue spring. I believe the fuel pressure can be adjusted on the air dog. Yesterday when I posted readings it was in the teens to single digits. Today it's 40ish. I'm reading through my CTS tied into the regulated return. Thoughts? Harry you were right about the flange. Hopefully that fixed the rear pinon seal.
 
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#20 ·
Colder temps=thicker viscosity fuel, and warmer temps=thinner viscosity fuel.

That said, I would try bumping up the pressure some.

Heres an example that shows the adjuster on the AD2, scroll down the page halfway...
http://www.xtremediesel.com/AirDog-II-Air-Fuel-Separation-System-DF-200-w-Adjustable-Regulator.aspx

The most I see is maybe 8psi higher fuel pressure when it's cold out in comparison to normal warm temps.

The fuel you buy can be different too at different times, even from the same station.

But yeah, 47psi is too close to the low threshold of 45psi.

Harry
 
#21 ·
Thanks Harry. Been doing a lot of reading on my set up. Looks like I've been lucky that the AD2 hasn't crapped out on me yet. Looks
Like I need to bump up the pressure on the AD2, and also check the regulator on the regulated return. A few threads indicated running the AD2 at 70 psi and then regulating the pressure at 65 with the regulated return.
 
#22 ·
Was able to get a little higher psi. Got it up to 61 ish. KOEO is at 49, then at idle after it warms up it goes to 53-54, then up to 59-61. Didn't get it below 50 today with heavier acceleration. I did a lot of reading last night and there are a lot of failures with the AD2. I've been fortunate and have not had a failure. I think it's 3 years old, 30k plus miles. I'm a little nervous with all the failures I've heard about. The ship that does the work on my truck switched to fASS who claims les than a 2% failure rate. Their system also has a separate screw for the regulator on the pump that allows for 75psi, then I can regulate it on my RR. How much fluctuation do you guys see that are running RRs and/or a FASS or AD? Lots of threads on this but most are 2+ years old. Just curious if there has been any new info.
 
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#23 ·
Had the shop put on the FASS system. With the higher regulator spring it will hold 75+ psi. I set it about 70 with the regulated return. Seems to hold pressure just fine. Truck seems to run better too. I like the set up better. It's closer to the tank so it won't have to suck as much to get fuel, also more protected from the cold wind that I think contributed to my gelling. It's a 3 micron filter. Pumps a little louder at idle and start up but not noticeable in the cab. If it lasts I think it's a good set up. Time will tell.
 
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