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Did heads on a 6.4 today

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Just thought I would share my findings on the latest thing from ford. My primary job at the dealer is gas or diesel engine repair so I get the time consuming jobs that keep me indoors when its snowing out which is ok by me. So I had an 08 F450 come in around christmas time consuming coolant and hydraulic locking after sitting briefly. I ordered a pile of nuts, bolts, fuel lines, EGR coolers and a valve grind set using my 6.0 experience to get an idea of what ill need before taking it apart. Firstly this truck isnt a good example of a well maintained properly driven truck so dont get the idea (yet) that the 6.4 is a problem other than hard on fuel. This truck has a power program, sees duty at the local truck pull contest and is a work vehicle. If the customer wasnt well known to us, warranty would be void but lets not go there. I lifted the cab as is required on the 6.4 moreso than the 6.0, very tough to do anything major with the cab in place so up she went. I tore the engine down and found the EGR coolers were both toast, gallons of coolant ran out of the exhaust manifolds when I unbolted them. The head gasket between 6 and 8 cylinder was discoloured/burnt once inspected but the heads were still fine. A simple clean-up and gasket job was all that was needed along with the 2 coolers. I found the head bolts were improved over the 6.0 version and a few other changes intake manifold wise that were an improvement but the rest is a nightmare. None of the high pressure fuel lines (26,000psi to open the injectors with fuel) cant be reused once loosened, there are 10 of them and they all get torqued to spec then rotated 60 degrees - silly. The small coolant pipes are plastic and do not take kindly to bending which I found out on my first 6.4 repair a few months back. There are countless things that can be overlooked that entails cab removal again if not noticed at first, so double and triple checking is required with your face about an inch away from whatever you are inspecting so you dont miss a booboo. The cab captive nuts spin in the cab mounts already which means in 2 years good luck getting them apart without cutting and welding. This truck also needs a rad, 2nd time in 44K, they leak at the crimp on the side tanks.

For those of you that have your trucks serviced at places other than the dealer, beware that when fuel filters are replaced there's a special bleed tool and proceedure to prevent high pressure pump and injector failure due to airated fuel, this also applies if you run it out of fuel too. The high pressure pumps will grenade and send debris to the injectors = $$$$. Very sensitive and very expensive.

I think the 6.4 is a great engine, just not for the DIY'ers out there. Maintain it and have the dealer service it so you dont get boned by some lube kid that changes your fuel filters and wrecks your engine = no warranty.

P.
 

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holy crap, I'm about to do a fuel filter change what is needed to do this after I read this.

"fuel filters are replaced there's a special bleed tool and proceedure to prevent high pressure pump and injector failure due to airated fuel"
 

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Ok so I called a friend of mine who is a service rep at ford and asked him about the bleed tool and proper way to change the fuel filters on the 6.4L. he confirmed that there is a special bleed tool to change the fuel filters but they don't use it. they in tern change the bottom filter and drain the water seperator then they tighten it up start the truck let it run for 3-5minutes shut the truck off and then change the top filter. :shrug:

can anyone confirm if this is an acceptable way to change the fuel filters ?

thanks

Nick
 

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The first time my fuel filters were change at the dealer, I was in the shop at the time and air got into the fuel lines and the truck wouldn't start. They did something to bleed the air out but not sure what.
 

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HARLEY6LF250SDU said:
Did heads on a 6.4 today

-------------------------------------------------------------------------

Just thought I would share my findings on the latest thing from ford. My primary job at the dealer is gas or diesel engine repair so I get the time consuming jobs that keep me indoors when its snowing out which is ok by me. So I had an 08 F450 come in around christmas time consuming coolant and hydraulic locking after sitting briefly. I ordered a pile of nuts, bolts, fuel lines, EGR coolers and a valve grind set using my 6.0 experience to get an idea of what ill need before taking it apart. Firstly this truck isnt a good example of a well maintained properly driven truck so dont get the idea (yet) that the 6.4 is a problem other than hard on fuel. This truck has a power program, sees duty at the local truck pull contest and is a work vehicle. If the customer wasnt well known to us, warranty would be void but lets not go there. I lifted the cab as is required on the 6.4 moreso than the 6.0, very tough to do anything major with the cab in place so up she went. I tore the engine down and found the EGR coolers were both toast, gallons of coolant ran out of the exhaust manifolds when I unbolted them. The head gasket between 6 and 8 cylinder was discoloured/burnt once inspected but the heads were still fine. A simple clean-up and gasket job was all that was needed along with the 2 coolers. I found the head bolts were improved over the 6.0 version and a few other changes intake manifold wise that were an improvement but the rest is a nightmare. None of the high pressure fuel lines (26,000psi to open the injectors with fuel) cant be reused once loosened, there are 10 of them and they all get torqued to spec then rotated 60 degrees - silly. The small coolant pipes are plastic and do not take kindly to bending which I found out on my first 6.4 repair a few months back. There are countless things that can be overlooked that entails cab removal again if not noticed at first, so double and triple checking is required with your face about an inch away from whatever you are inspecting so you dont miss a booboo. The cab captive nuts spin in the cab mounts already which means in 2 years good luck getting them apart without cutting and welding. This truck also needs a rad, 2nd time in 44K, they leak at the crimp on the side tanks.

For those of you that have your trucks serviced at places other than the dealer, beware that when fuel filters are replaced there's a special bleed tool and proceedure to prevent high pressure pump and injector failure due to airated fuel, this also applies if you run it out of fuel too. The high pressure pumps will grenade and send debris to the injectors = $$$$. Very sensitive and very expensive.

I think the 6.4 is a great engine, just not for the DIY'ers out there. Maintain it and have the dealer service it so you dont get boned by some lube kid that changes your fuel filters and wrecks your engine = no warranty.

P.
Do you have any idea what caused this? If you don't mind me asking but what tuner was he running and was the dpf in place?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Rainman said:
Do you have any idea what caused this? If you don't mind me asking but what tuner was he running and was the dpf in place?
sorry, I just passed on the info above. But DPF is/was inplace.
 

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Rainman said:
The first time my fuel filters were change at the dealer, I was in the shop at the time and air got into the fuel lines and the truck wouldn't start. They did something to bleed the air out but not sure what.
rainman there is a special tool verified by my service writer but they don't even use it at the ford dealer I bring my truck to. I will do some research and see if I can find the part # and price !
 

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onebadf150 said:
rainman there is a special tool verified by my service writer but they don't even use it at the ford dealer I bring my truck to. I will do some research and see if I can find the part # and price !

Thanks badf150 - let me know, I would buy one. But when my truck would not start the tech made a phone call and preformed a simple procedure, he never mentioned a special tool.:shrug: I'm about due for the filter change also, when I purchased my truck the dealer did the first fuel filter's and oil changes for free.
 

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I think it explains on the dvd when you buy the truck if you get air in the lines you have to turn the key on for like 30 seconds and off like 6 times or something to purge the air.
 

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the tool is nothing more than a fuel gauge with the schrader valve female connector on it, #310-D009. to bleed the air out after a fuel filter change you should turn the key to on but don't start,the fuel pump in the hfcm will run for 15-20 seconds. turn the key of and repeat this 6 times. there is a air bleed in the small filter housing that will pass air to the return line. now if you get air in the high pressure system there is a tool to bleed that which is a air purge adapter # 310-184. you unhook the rear banjo bolt then bolt this in place of that but just changing fuel filters it is not needed.
 

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Fuel filter change is the same as I did with my 06, actually easier, not a stumble or stutter out of my truck - no special tools -10 deg outside.

Everybody is over thinking the 6.4 L - nobody touches my fuel filters but me, if you take it to a dealer or lube shop - usually the shop retard is assigned with your oil & fuel filter changes:mafia
 

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My Dealers Diesel Service Manager is Very thorough! He gave me info on changing the fuel filters, and to me it sounds better to let the dealership mess with it and just pay the 100 bucks to have it serviced. He advised me to get both fuel filters changed every 400 hours or 10,000 miles as a precaution, even though the owners manual recommends 15,000 miles. He explained that he has seen problems with fuel filters if they are neglected, causing failure of injectors and problems with the injector pumps. I know that I would save a bunch of money by just changing these filters by myself, but it sounds like I would keep myself under warranty if I have it serviced by Ford every 400 hrs or 10,000 miles. Let me know what you guys think about this especially those who have changed your filters or taken it to the dealer for this service.
 

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K45, How many miles did you change your fuel filters at? Was it tough? If you don't mind can you explain the process to me??? Thanks
 

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I believe this happend to me. My truck lost two injectors and a pump. I got my oil changed and filter changed at a dealership that didnt have a tech.
 

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I changed filters at 10,000 miles, My truck is lifted, I dont know if makes much differance, the btm filter is a pain that is why I change it myself, caught a lube (Tech) on my 06 trying to ram it back in with dirt & crud all over the new filter, he hated to change the ford filters so any way it fit was fine by him, his words. The 08s have a filter drain (nice) Wash around the filter so you dont get dirt in the housing or on the new filter, drain the housing, remove the cap & carefully remove the cap with the filter,wire harness is a pain, I pulled the harness away from the frame, I have to remove the filter from the cap to get it past the drive shaft, reinstall filter & cap, start by hand then retorque it to spec, cycle your fuel pump 5 - 6 times & fire it up - easy. The one under the hood is real easy.

If the Dealership changes your filters & get dirt or what ever on or in your filter, or (not) change it and charge you - happens. It will more than likely run for awhile then cause problems & strand you, then your dealership could void your warrenty for running dirty fuel ! This is what I worry about, I use my truck for work in the oilfield in remote, cold areas. If I change my filters, I know I have done it right, with some colorfull words used while working under my truck at times.

Sorry about the long post, you do what works best for you & enjoy your trucks.
 

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MRBOHN23 said:
He advised me to get both fuel filters changed every 400 hours or 10,000 miles as a precaution, even though the owners manual recommends 15,000 miles. He explained that he has seen problems with fuel filters if they are neglected, causing failure of injectors and problems with the injector pumps.
Knowing that most service advisors are on commission I am not surprised that he would suggest accelerated intervals. I don't think you would run into any warranty problems if you followed the service schedule recommended by Ford. I think he just wants to see you in there more.
 
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