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Senior Member
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Discussion Starter #1
How bout we get a thread going about polishing wheels and what not and what everyone has tried and what seems to work the best.

Also maybe post any info on what you may have tried on keeping the paint looking good.

I have been think about trying 3m's paint restoration kit to freshen up some tired paint, anyone had experience using this.
 

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Junior Member
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525 Posts
that sounds great Cody, I'm all on board! I'm very passionate about metal polishing where do you wanna start?
 

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Senior Member
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that sounds great Cody, I'm all on board! I'm very passionate about metal polishing where do you wanna start?
Cody would probably like you to start on his truck:roflol:
I trying to help you Cody:happymugs
 

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Senior Member
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Discussion Starter #4
Im a long way off from being to that point, and even then I think all I will be doing is the tanks which will need the crud burnt off of them and a lot of work, I'm pretty sure I'm going to have the wheels machine polished to save me some time.
 

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Junior Member
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525 Posts
yeah,those robotic wheel polishers are hard to beat. I'm having my drives redone on one of those next week,then i will coat them with a product called alumaclear to prevent the disaster that road de-icer causes. If your tanks are that bad,sanding with 600grit on an orbital before primary polishing might be in order. Good snowy day project inside a warm shop.......mmmmmm i can almost smell the hot polish and solvent already!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
You about read my mind, I even planned on draining the tanks and pulling them off.

Where did you find that alumaclear, I was thinking the same thing, once they are done we need a way to keep them looking good without much work.
 

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Just google 'em. They are based out of western MI. They will come to you(or you to them) if you have a big job,like an entire aluminum tank trailer, or just order the spray cans and DIY. I haven't done anything as large as a fuel tank yet myself,but it certainly can be done. My wheels are holding up well for the time and $$ i spent. I plan to redo them once a year. Stripping the Alumaclear is simple as wiping it off with laquer thinner,then a quick polish and reapply. Good luck. If you do get the stuff,be in touch,i'll try to share everything i;ve learned(trial and error) while using it.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
No problem, I will let you know how it goes. Im lacking the motivation to really get going on it, but once my stacks and bumper get here and I get them on Im hoping that will jolt my motivation.

That is if they actually got ordered. :bdh
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Which one of your vast collection is going to get this treatment?
The 79 K100, the t600 I was fooling around with is going to stay a road truck, so now I get to start fixing my favorite one up.

It's going to be almost 4 weeks before I get the parts, just putting a set of 6" miter cuts on it and a 20" texas square boxed end bumper. I will be getting a new visor for it sometime, but that is a little further down the road.
 

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Senior Member
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Discussion Starter #12
I want to keep the look simple, I don't like to much stuff cluttering up the truck. In all honesty I may keep the factory painted visor just to not have a lot of chrome.
 

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410 Posts
I would like to see a thread on polishing, what works, what doesn't, techniques, etc. I polish all 16 outside wheels during the winter with an 8" wheel and stick compound. A nasty job, at least the way I do it is. I am self taught which means I know just enough to be dangerous. I am sure I could learn a lot about polishing just like I have about my engine and the rest of my old Pete. I have used the Alcoa sealant after polishing and find it does help the shine to last a little longer but after several washings the fine scratches start to show and the clarity fades. I am going to look into the sealant mentioned above.
 

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I'm shelf taught too,but i'm always willing to learn more wherever i can. Sounds like you got the basics down,and if you are satisfied with the results,keep rockin'! I'll throw out a couple of things,disregard them if you're already on top of them. I like a lot of speed for cutting,so I use a 10" wheel whenever possible-larger wheel=faster surface speed. Then i slow it down for polishing,with 8" wheels and variable speed polisher. If doing aluminum in 2 steps(like just mentioned) I start with a brown compound on a yellow wheel,then polish with white compound on a white wheel. If the surface isn't too rough to start with and i'm pressed for time, green compound,white wheel,high speed is my recipe. After i'm satisfied i have the piece near perfect with the polisher,i squirt lighter fluid onto it and do a final wipedown with a microfiber towel. I don't use any liquid polish because there is polish already inbeded in the surface from the polisher,the lighter fluid breaks it down and continues the polishing process as you wipe it. Happy polishing!
 

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410 Posts
Thanks for the info. When polishing the inside of a wheel I have trouble getting the 10" yellow buff into the wheel so use an 8". Generally I use the brown rouge and yellow buff and thats good enough since I go in and out of rock quarry's all day.

The local chrome shop gave me a bottle of new stuff to try. It's called MoJo polish. It is purely a finish polish but it really adds a higher clarity to a polished wheel. Also supposed to leave a sealant on the wheel. I'll see how it works.

I looked at the AlumaClear on line. Definitely going to try that. Also going to try the lighter fluid. I have been using my hot pressure washer after I'm finished buffing to get all the black out of the pores. Works good but the lighter fluid would be easier for me.

Had a couple mexicans follow me to the shop in October and offer to polish all my wheels for $200.Sounded great and they had all their equipment with them. I told them to show me something that showed they were legal. That was the end of that, but I was sure tempted. I just can't bring myself to help an illegal in any way. I let the government do that with my tax money. ( Sorry, that has nothing to do with the topic, just sayin..)
 

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If you've never used the lighterfluid trick I think you'll be impressed. It will do a fine job even on the brown compound. Sometimes I do just like you do,especially in the winter.
 

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idunnoyet
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231 Posts
I am really interested in this topic. Where would a man find one of these machine polishers and how much per wheel. I'd really rather hire it done. but will work on it myself some.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I am really interested in this topic. Where would a man find one of these machine polishers and how much per wheel. I'd really rather hire it done. but will work on it myself some.

There are only a few that have robotic polishers that I have found, a google search will net you the best results. I was quoted $65/wheel at the place I talked to on friday, I still have another place close that can do the whole truck if I want, I will be contacting them after the first of the year.
 

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idunnoyet
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231 Posts
I would like to get my whole truck done, offer here was about $45.00 a wheel and $150 a tank, somewhere in that range!
 

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$45 is VERY cheap for robotic polishing, but kinda high for electric buffing. For my money, I'd try to find someone with the robot . Call or google VIS, they make the robots and can tell u has one near you. I just had my drives done on tuesday,$60/wheel that was sanding and polishing and I'm very happy with the results! Done by Zimmermen Carriers in Ephrata PA.
 
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