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Junior Member
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Discussion Starter #1
Okay where to start... So i have had my truck tuned for about 20,000 miles and I think it's starting to catch up with me now. First the puking problem. I know your all going to say blow head gaskets but I really don't think that's the problem and here is why. I started haveing puking issues about 5000 miles ago and a buddy said why don't you just unplug your egr so I did and no puke. Ran fine until one day it go down to about 5 degress and didn't plug it in and then started it and left a coolant spot on the ground. To it to a local shop and they said a hose on the egr was leaking and it would just be easier to delete it so I had them install a blocker so that no exhaust would flow through it anymore. PLugged it back in and now it still pukes. The thing that really throws me is that i can have it plugged in turned on stock and pull the living hell out of it and it won't puke anything. So there is problem number one. Now for problem number two. I have an edge in my truck just for extra guages and it has thrown the code cly2 and cly5 contribution codes. The cyl2 one time and cly5 three or four times. So what should i do about that? It seems haze a little bit of constant white to while the truck is warming up could that be from an injector acting funny?
guys any help or input would be greatly appreciated

Thanks, Chase
 

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Junior Member
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16 Posts
Hi. I had the same problem. I installed a egr del kit problem still there. Cyl 7 code coming up. So I took my truck in too NADP and had them test it. I had 4 bad injectors. 345 and 7. I replaced all 8 injectors truck runs great and no more problem.
 

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Junior Member
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348 Posts
yea as far as the injectors go it sounds like you are starting to loose a few. And for the EGR loosing coolant when you plug it in after a EGR delete that dont make sense becuse it does nothing when you plug it in if you have a EGR delete or is your stock EGR cooler just welded up if so you could still have a bad EGR cooler and welding it up would not fix it if it was leaking.
 

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1,661 Posts
For problem #1---- To see if it is the EGR cooler that failed, your gonna park the truck so the nose is lower than the rear, or jack up the rear. Let it cool down. Remove the EGR valve which can be a P.I.T.A depending on how dirty it is. Look in the hole where the valve was and look for wetness/coolant. If you find it wet then your EGR cooler has failed. Even with the block off plate, the heat transfer from the up pipe to the EGR cooler can cause a flash boil. If the EGR cooler has failed, it's usually cause by the oil cooler being blocked up, and not allowing coolant to get to the EGR cooler.

To determine if the oil cooler is blocked up, your gonna need gauges or a good scan tool that will read EOT and ECT from the OBDII. The delta between ECT and EOT should not be more than 15* while driving 55-60 mph. The motor should be fully warmed up 190*-195*. if your getting more than 15* difference between EOT and ECT than it's a good chance that the oil cooler is blocked up with casting sand and/or coolant silicate drop out.

It might be headgasket also. The reason your not Puking when tuned to stock is because in stock setting your not creating enough cylinder pressure to lift the heads.

I would advise you not to drive it untill you fix the problem of the Puking. You might hydro-lock the motor.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yeah my cooler has pretty just been welded shut. So are you saying that i need to do a full delete? And The oil temp runs about 6 or 7 higher driving around town and about 12 or 13 on the intersate. Is that bad? And it still runs great and it will start at 5 degrees out easy it just doesnt sound too good. Should I just drive my truck until the injector quits completely?
 
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