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Discussion Starter #1
Okay, get ready for a long post lol! I have a 2006 f250, I love the truck and it's a blast to drive when it's running right. It's was studded sometime before I bought it with a new ficm.. A dorman ficm. (Actually tore it apart this morning just to look it over is how I found out). Voltage is good, done the bubble test, battery's tested good.
When I done the egr delete, I also replaced oil cooler, Icp sensor, Ipr, crank and cam sensor. Upgraded the turbo to a barder stage 2.5. Sounds awesome by the way. Has a 4" straight pipe, s&b cold air intake, added a oil bypass and coolant filtration kit to it as well... Now here's my problem. This started before I tore into the truck and continues to get worse. Oil pressure is around 585-605 with an Ipr at 24%. once it has been running awhile. (At idle) it'll start missing, sometimes it'll almost stall and the glow plug light will come on but stay running. Then Battery voltage drops at this time because now the glow plugs are cycling. It's like you just turned the key back on to start it. Kill it, restarts just fine. That's how it started out

Now that the sun is cranking out the heat, I can not drive this across town without it stalling or almost stalling. Throw it in neutral and it'll fire back up then die. I will have to repeat this many times untill I get to work. It's becoming a hazard, if I'm on the highway it does fine unless you kill it or let it sit idling. Then back to stalling Betsy again. I'm thinking about removing the fuel tank tomorrow just to see if it's slowly clogging up. Might pull the hfcm tomorrow as well. I pulled every wire and checked every ground to no luck. If any of you guys have any advice. I'll appreciate it.
 

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I also took it to the ford stellership they said 2 bad injectors on each bank.
 

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IMO I would first load test each battery individually and then have the alternator tested. Then have it checked for codes. Also, I am not a big fan of Dorman FICMs. The injector diagnosis might be because gf a bad FICM.
 

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Battery's tested good but needs charged, alternator is good, i never bought anything from dorman so it'll be getting replaced with a bpd either way.
 

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So I pulled the fuel tank, found a little piece of aluminum foil in it and the under side of like a bottle cap that's suppose to help it seal. I have no idea if that'll cause it to stall but tomorrow I'm pulling the HFCM to see if it's clean or not
 

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So I pulled the fuel tank, found a little piece of aluminum foil in it and the under side of like a bottle cap that's suppose to help it seal. I have no idea if that'll cause it to stall but tomorrow I'm pulling the HFCM to see if it's clean or not
I doubt it there is a screen in the bottom of the sending unit so it would have to block it. Do you have a SG2 so you can get more info. You may have a short somewhere when my truck broke down and I pulled the ICP connector to get to my destination it stalled several times. The IPR pigtail was bad and was shorting shutting the engine down. I'm also in agreement with Bismic you may have a FICM issue.
 

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Im no 6.0L expert but, I work test batteries and alternator as Bismic said. The first thing that I can think of is the FICM. What is the mileage of the truck? I would not expect to only loose 4 injectors at once. One ok I buy it, all of them again I buy it. ( must note: if you have codes for all 8 injectors that is a 99.999999% sign you have lost the FICM).
 

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Still think the FICM is suspect, but let me ask this ........
Ever check fuel pressure?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
That I haven't, that's my step this weekend, I'm pulling the HFCM tomorrow to clean it of any debris. Just trying to get this figured out
 

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After watching both videos and seeing the ICP signal vanish instantly at the same time the engine stalled makes me think it's a wiring issue too.

Bad injectors would cause rough running plus smoke and hesitation. Your truck cuts off like someone turned the ignition off. A fuel starvation issue (low or decreasing fuel feed from HFCM) would gradually loose power or slowly stall out.

Check your engine harness and relays too. Try wiggling the harness near the ICP and FICM while it's running and see if you can induce the fault.

Harry
 

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Tech ron has a video out for hard starting and if the FICM is bad it will make 3&5 right bank and 2&6 left bank injectors drop out, sounds like what you have.
Ed
 

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Okay, I was finally able to swap in a "known" good ficm off a buddy's truck. Truck still stalls, i noticed injector 8 plug is basically busted and was unplugged and I can pull several others without much force off the end of the injectors. Looks like the previous owner has had some work done and these clowns didn't think to pull the metal clip holding them on. Could this be the issue? Causing a slight short? On my videos with the ice plugged in my icp pressure will jump up to 1200 when it stalls or die. I can upload a video of that if you like.
 

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It's looking more and more like a wiring harness issue from my house. I'm a little unsure what you meant "with the ice plugged in". But I would say your headed in the right direction with the wiring being a high probability and likely culprit. Like I mentioned earlier, try the wiggle test on various areas of the harness when the engine is running at idle and see if any reaction occurs, this would confirm things before tearing in deeper.

Good luck and keep us posted!

Harry
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I meant icp plug 😂 but the injector harness is brand new, I just noticed the plastic tips for the injectors for the injector harness to attach to are mostly broken. So I'm thinking the vibration is shorting the injectors out and causing it to stall. Or the Icp plug is crap
 

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I mean it won't do it till it reaches 150-190 operating temps. It's like the heat is causing it to short, it's a weird issue for sure
 

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Or the insulation and wire wrapping is getting soft enough to move, or a female connector expands enough to loosen the connection.

I've been having a long, arduous debate about a rebuilt FICM that started to get wonky when the motor temp reached 150F and got worse from there, so that was a possibility until you switched them.

However, with the original engine and harness in my truck I had less then a half dozen times when my truck stalled making a hard right turn. At 135k a rebuilt motor went in and I had the dealership put in a new engine main harness, not the injector harness. The stalling has never returned to 190k miles. This harness is a PITA due to the crank sensor under the A/C compressor. Some who have replaced their harness have spliced in the wires to the crank sensor but you need to be damn good at wiring and insulation to do that well.

Look carefully at the location where the intake piping crosses over the main harness as it comes over from the PCM as that is a major pinch point. Many dealership mechanics have a hard time finding the point of a short unless it has really started to burn the insulation. I've shimmed under the bracket for this intake pipe where it attaches to the FICM bolts to take some of the potential pinching away.

Keith (ford_doctor) at DTS used to have a good write up on harness problems and where to look for them, but I haven't been over there for years and don't know if the info is still available to us mortals.
 
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