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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
like said in title i have replaced all that and still doing same thing. i tried starting it with icp plugged= same things, unplugged icp= no help what the hell else could i do...i got it started finally after a LOT of cranking thought i was in the green and then same thing started to run and then idle down......c'mon tdg guys what else or missing:bash:wtf
 

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MAFIA #8
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5,567 Posts
it would really help if you would keep ONE thread and stop starting a new one all the time and just add to the first thread so that people that come in late can see what the problem is/was and what you have tried so far... Right now all i know is that you have put a **** load of parts on a truck but and that you got it to start but it idled down???? makes no since...
 

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sorry about the luck, I went through the same thing, dead truck since october.

Sounds like it could be a bad o-ring or a 1/2 dozen other things. Could have pinched an o-ring while reasembling. Did you use all new gaskets and O-rings when you put it back together. The best way to locate the leak is to get it to a shop or someone and air test the HPO system. If anything, you can rule out the HPO system and move on to something else that could be the problem. You have spent thousands on those parts and it could be a simple $1.00 O-ring. (just saying)

I hope you get this figured out.
 

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What was your original problem? Also when first put back together until all air is gone it may run rough. Ford says to drive like 50 miles if I recall.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
HHRECOVERY-----SORRY JUST DESPERATE

04LARIAT-----WHAT DID YOU DO TO FIX IT.

LENZHOTROD------WENT TO START TRUCK A WEEK AGO AND THEN DIES...WAITED THEN STARTED AGAIN RAN FOR A COUPLE OF MINUTES THEN IDLES DOWN...IT SEEMS IT WILL RUN WHEN COLD BUT AS IT WARMS IT DIES.THEY SAY HPOP SYSTEM SO I BOUGHT A NEW HPOP,UPDATED STC,DUMMY PLUGS,STANDPIPES,CHANGE FILTERS. SO WENT TO CRANK AND A LOT OF CRANKING AND FINALLY STARTED AND THEN DIED AGAIN...SO WAIT A FEW AND START IT AGAIN RUNS A COUPLE OF MINUTES THEN DIES DOING THE SAME AS BEFORE.
 

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If it starts cold but has problems when it warms up it sounds like a HPOP system leak. Usually STC fitting or an o-ring leak. Have you had a scanner on it to see what is the problem? All anyone can do on this forum is to point you in a general direction. Without testing you could throw lots of money at it until you get lucky. I wouldn't take even my own advice as to the problem without testing first!!!
 

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buddy of mine had an '06 he was working on with same symptoms. He replaced all that...and come to find out it was the cam sensor. He put a new one in and still same thing, but it was a little dirty. He took it back out cleaning it off really good and fired right up. Might want to try pulling the cam sensor out and inspecting it or try replacing it.
 

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04LARIAT-----WHAT DID YOU DO TO FIX IT.
I bought a 12v cummins to put in it.

But that may be a bit drastic in your case. I have a dead cylinder so it is a good time for a transplant.
 

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If I understand what you are saying.The engine will start and run,then idle slower and slower until it dies.Then if you let if sit for a few minutes it will start again and then slowly idle down and quit.If this is what it is doing,then you may be getting combustion gases into the fuel system past one of the injector gaskets or through the injector itself.To check for this condition,unhook both fuel lines going to the cylinder heads from the upper fuel filter housing.Attach a small balloon or finger from a nitrate glove to each line that you have disconnected(use a small zip tie/zap strap to secure the balloon/finger to each line.Disable the fuel pump and crank the engine over while observing the ballons/fingers.If one or the other fills up with air,you have a problem on that side.If a problem is indicated,then remove the fist 3 glow plugs and crank the engine over,observing the baloons/fingers for filling with air.If the ballon/finger inflates,that is the injector with the gasket or internal problem.If it doesn't inflate,install one glow plug at a time and crank the engine,repeat until the ballon/finger inflates to locate which gasket or injector has a problem.If the problem injector shows burn't where the bottom gasket is,you may get away with cleaning the injector and replacing the gasket and o-rings.If it is not damaged replace the injector.If this is the case,make sure you retorque the injector hold down bolts on all the other injectors to 25 FT/LBS.

Good luck.

bronco1
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I am going to see if ficm is reading 48v......now just cranking like it is so close


Strokin-----where is cam sensor located and a pic if possible is it easy to get to.

Bronco-----will try if sensor doesn't work.
 

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Member
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If I understand what you are saying.The engine will start and run,then idle slower and slower until it dies.Then if you let if sit for a few minutes it will start again and then slowly idle down and quit.If this is what it is doing,then you may be getting combustion gases into the fuel system past one of the injector gaskets or through the injector itself.To check for this condition,unhook both fuel lines going to the cylinder heads from the upper fuel filter housing.Attach a small balloon or finger from a nitrate glove to each line that you have disconnected(use a small zip tie/zap strap to secure the balloon/finger to each line.Disable the fuel pump and crank the engine over while observing the ballons/fingers.If one or the other fills up with air,you have a problem on that side.If a problem is indicated,then remove the fist 3 glow plugs and crank the engine over,observing the baloons/fingers for filling with air.If the ballon/finger inflates,that is the injector with the gasket or internal problem.If it doesn't inflate,install one glow plug at a time and crank the engine,repeat until the ballon/finger inflates to locate which gasket or injector has a problem.If the problem injector shows burn't where the bottom gasket is,you may get away with cleaning the injector and replacing the gasket and o-rings.If it is not damaged replace the injector.If this is the case,make sure you retorque the injector hold down bolts on all the other injectors to 25 FT/LBS.

Good luck.

bronco1
Good troubleshooting procedure. Ford actually has two specs on the injector hold-down torquing - depending on model year. The later model years call for higher torque values than 25 ft-lbs. Several Techs I know just torque them all to 28 ft-lbs now.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
oh yea sorry also replaced ipr .
 

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i got a 05 5 it been to like 5 dealers in tx then came to oklahoma to my little shop it had hpop it had the fitting and the sct and oil rail and stand pipes plugs injector cause of the oring in the top of them and it still has a leak lol and the ipr been changed alike 7 times cause that every mechainc fix thing on these 6.0 lol the only thing is the oil feed tube in the block that has to have a crack cause i redid every thing and found plugs left out in the oil rails and oring pinched in sct now to tear down cause it still has a leak it got to be the tube ford say u dont have to pull the head but i cant get the driver side bolt out the ****ing head in the way
 

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Discussion Starter #17
can a faulty cam sensor cause this also
 

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a faulty cam sensor will make it not start...no matter how much you crank on it.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
i just got new cam sensor....going to reinstall and see what happens.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
when i pulled cam sensor the rear o-ring was cut what y'all think.
 
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