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Discussion Starter #1
Just how hard is this to do? I have been having a slow start issue with the truck. I can put the batteries on a trickle charger for days...with no change in the slow crankover. I had both batteries load tested...and they came back ok. The altenator is putting out 14 volts to the batteries...so that should be ok.

So, that either leaves me the starter is going out, or there is corrosion in the long positive cable that ties the batteries together then goes down to the starter. I suspect that neither of these are cheap fixes.

So, unless somebody has any other ideas of what this may be, I am going to try and get the starter off. One of the auto stores in town can test it I believe.
 

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dave are youo talking about a long crank time or slow (rpm) crank? starter not hard to pull just remember you have 2 batteries to disconnect.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
slow rpm speed.

Just got back from Advance Auto doing some tests on the starter/batteries and it appears that the positive cable going between the batteries then down to the starter is corroded and that is what needs to be replaced. Ford wants nearly $270 for this cable. Has anybody made their own?
 

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I would think you can get what you need at a speed shop or someplace that can build cables for remote battery installs or winch installs.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
That looks like a pretty stout cable. I have fired him off an email to see about cost including shipping.
 

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Never buy these type of cables from OEM. We were doing it for equipment, and all our golf carts. Finally I just bought everything I needed and now make them myself for a fraction of the cost. Better quality IMO.

Let me know if you need help with it Dave.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I contacted that guy about cables...and even he seemed pretty stout on the price.

I think I am going to remove my factory cable then go find cable and ends on my own to make them. It can't be that stinkin hard. Just gotta make sure I don't weld myself to the truck when removing that cable. LOL
 

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I made my own cables for my vehicles. I was never happy with the small gauge factory cables. I bought a roll of 0 gauge cable and battery terminals. Measured and stripped the cable ends. Clamped the battery terminal to a vise. Broke out the mapp gas. Heated the terminal. Took a looooooong roll of solder and filled the terminal end and shoved the cable end into the pool of solder. I even bought black and red heat shrink tubing for the ends.
 

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2 gauge wiring is like $1-$1.50 a foot at the auto parts store, I'd make it myself. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I've got the old cable out of the truck. Was a serious PIA. Except I forgot to pay attention to the cable that attaches to the relay to see which wire goes on what lug (does the fat wire go on the front lug...or the rear. I think the front) I am going to head to my local IH dealer tomorrow to see if he carries some bulk wire.
 

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What relay? The starter relay on the fender?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Yep...that relay.

And...you have any idea just how *&^$#^&* hard it is to find battery cable ends. I mean good solid battery cable ends in a smallish town. Finding the 0 gauge and 3/0 gauge wire was easy. I found the drivers side end at the Mack dealership...and he had a passenger side terminal that I could prolly make work.

But nobody carried the starter end lug. I found lots of straight ones...but none 90*. And none of the straight ones were long enough to bend...nor narrow enough.

Ended up searching the web and found a Ford dealership in TN that had my cable for an internet price of $130...compared to the $270 my local dealer shot me for a price. Hopefully it will be here next week.
 

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I'll snap a picture for you tomorrow. It's late, and I don't feel like putting pants on to walk out to the truck. :D
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I'll snap a picture for you tomorrow. It's late, and I don't feel like putting pants on to walk out to the truck. :D
As long as you only take pictures of the truck and relay...I don't care how you are dressed LOLLOL or not dressed :roflol:
 

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I realize this is basically the worst picture ever, but, it was late out and this was taken with my CrackBerry. The rubber connector basically looks like an h. The thicker of the two wires going to the connector from the down side attaches to the rear terminal with the rubber cover over it.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thanks Zach. I couldn't remember where the thicker wire went...front or rear of the relay.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Ok gang...I need a bit more help.

The new battery cable showed up, got everything installed (big PIA) and my problem still persists...a slow turnover start.

Does anybody know what the normal amperage draw is for a healthy starter upon startup? The first time I had it tested the draw was 170 amps and 10.82V. When I had it re-rested this afternoon it jumped up to 361.7 amps for a draw and 10.39V.

The machine used also flagged a 1.73 amp draw when the truck is off. Dome lights were off, nothing was plugged into the cig lighter. The only things I can think of are the radio memory, the PCM, and there is a small led light that stays lit on my PIAA switch. Then...is 1.73A really all that much?

Anyway...please throw any and all ideas at me. I have had the batteries load tested...individually...and they tested fine. The alt is putting out 14 volts...so I am assuming that is fine
 

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Ok gang...I need a bit more help.

The new battery cable showed up, got everything installed (big PIA) and my problem still persists...a slow turnover start.

Does anybody know what the normal amperage draw is for a healthy starter upon startup? The first time I had it tested the draw was 170 amps and 10.82V. When I had it re-rested this afternoon it jumped up to 361.7 amps for a draw and 10.39V.

The machine used also flagged a 1.73 amp draw when the truck is off. Dome lights were off, nothing was plugged into the cig lighter. The only things I can think of are the radio memory, the PCM, and there is a small led light that stays lit on my PIAA switch. Then...is 1.73A really all that much?

Anyway...please throw any and all ideas at me. I have had the batteries load tested...individually...and they tested fine. The alt is putting out 14 volts...so I am assuming that is fine
Dave,

It sounds like you have a voltage regulator going bad.........probably going to need a new alternator. Disconnect the alternator, and do the amp test again.

Woody
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Was able to find out that a healthy starter will draw 300-350A at startup.

Finally had a chance to take it to somebody that I trust. We realized that the draw the monkeys at Advance Auto were calling the starter was the glow-plugs. After some thought, we keyed-on the truck to let the plugs activate. Once the WTS light went out, they then ran the test on the starter.

It drew 500A at startup. We load tested the batteries individually again, and tested the alt...and they came out fine.

So...instead of listening to the clown at Advance Auto telling me I needed a new positive battery cable, what I really needed was a starter.

But Dayum...that sure is a shiney purty battery cable under the hood. :bang:
 
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