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Discussion Starter #1
It turns out that my ScanGuage II sucks a lot of amperage through the fuse which is used to power the cigarette lighter.
In the past, I powered a small inverter or a small compressor off the cigarette lighter outlet.
Since the ScanGuage II install, both the compressor or the inverter will blow the cig lighter fuse.

When the fuse blows the ScanGuage II goes out too.
When I install a new 20 amp fuse there is a pretty good spark at the fuse when it is inserted - and the ScanGuage II immediately turns on with some type of "reset" message on it's screen.

Guess it's time to buy a new truck with the built-in AC outlet. :woot:

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:read:shrugs
It turns out that my ScanGuage II sucks a lot of amperage through the fuse which is used to power the cigarette lighter.
In the past, I powered a small inverter or a small compressor off the cigarette lighter outlet.
Since the ScanGuage II install, both the compressor or the inverter will blow the cig lighter fuse.

When the fuse blows the ScanGuage II goes out too.
When I install a new 20 amp fuse there is a pretty good spark at the fuse when it is inserted - and the ScanGuage II immediately turns on with some type of "reset" message on it's screen.

Guess it's time to buy a new truck with the built-in AC outlet. :woot:

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:read:shrugs

Can't see how it would draw more than and amp or so. It's just listening to the Canbus in your truck. I would contact linear logic it may have a short or something. I know mine doesn't suck.
 

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1. possibly wiring in cig lighter circuit compromised
2. possible something wrong with the cig lighter outlet (they can short circuit when something is plugged in)
3. possibly something wrong with ScanGauge as mentioned, but would be first I've heard of causing a large parasitic draw from these devices.

Harry
 
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Forgot to mention, most of the time when I see cig lighter fuses blown, it's from a faulty cord thats being plugged in, for instance a bad phone charger cord blowing the lighter fuse is very common. If both devices your plugging in are doing this, then thats not it, but if only one of the devices is causing it, take a closer look at the power cord.

Harry
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Forgot to mention, most of the time when I see cig lighter fuses blown, it's from a faulty cord thats being plugged in, for instance a bad phone charger cord blowing the lighter fuse is very common. If both devices your plugging in are doing this, then thats not it, but if only one of the devices is causing it, take a closer look at the power cord.

Harry
One device is an inverter to keep the laptop charged.
The other device is a small compressor (think "mini-compressor")
Each device alone works properly when plugged into the cig lighter.
The cigarette lighter works too.
Its only when the ScanGuage II is connected does the cig lighter not support the other devices.
Note: exception is cell phone charging - very low current draw. Even the inverter will run for a short period of time - maybe 15 - 20 seconds before the fuse will blow.

Ford factory manual shows a 20 amp fuse at location #12 for the cig lighter and the OBDII port.
A search of the ScanGuage II website and product manual did not find the current draw for their device.

I suspect that my ScanGuage II draws more power than one would expect or mine is defective (even though it works properly in every other aspect).
 

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I suspect you may be right, thanks for the clear explanation Rich.

I wouldn't think the ScanGaugeII should draw much more than 1 to 3amps at the most. Even an electric fuel pump ony draws around 8amps average.

Only way to know for sure is to jump an amp meter inline through the fuse or use a circuit breaker installed through the fuse and monitor dc current draw with a meter or high quality amp clamp, preferably one that reads milliamps (1000mA = 1 Amp).

I've used both my phone charger / portable gps / portable dvd player with no issues on our truck.

I would contact Linear Logic, the manufacturer of ScanGauge and pick there brain, they may have an answer. They usually respond to all questions.

Harry
 

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I suspect you may be right, thanks for the clear explanation Rich.

I wouldn't think the ScanGaugeII should draw much more than 1 to 3amps at the most. Even an electric fuel pump ony draws around 8amps average.

Only way to know for sure is to jump an amp meter inline through the fuse or use a circuit breaker installed through the fuse and monitor dc current draw with a meter or high quality amp clamp, preferably one that reads milliamps (1000mA = 1 Amp).

I've used both my phone charger / portable gps / portable dvd player with no issues on our truck.

I would contact Linear Logic, the manufacturer of ScanGauge and pick there brain, they may have an answer. They usually respond to all questions.

Harry
I sent an email to linear logic. It's basically like a USB or Ethernet device and I can't imagine it draws much more than 1 amp.
 

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I just thought of something. Maybe try it with just the SG2 cord plugged into the OBD2 with out the SG2 hooked up. If it still blows the fuse with just the SG2 cord, then it's a faulty cord.

Harry
 

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I sent an email to linear logic. It's basically like a USB or Ethernet device and I can't imagine it draws much more than 1 amp.
The response.


The ScanGauge II should not drain the vehicle's battery or cause a fuse to blow. The SG2 draws 2mA when the vehicle is turned off. With the vehicle and ScanGauge on with full brightness the draw is 100mA. The cigarette lighter and the OBDII port use the same fuse in some vehicles. In one post the customer mentioned it only happens when the ScanGauge is plugged in and when his cell phone is charging. I am curious if it happens when just the ScanGauge is plugged in with no other devices/inverters plugged in. If it happens when his cellphone is charging as well, it may not be an issue with the unit but may be an issue with the wiring. It is possible that the cable or unit may have a short in it, testing out just the cable plugged in like harry6.0 suggested will tell me if it is the cable or the unit. Please let this customer know to contact us, so I can ask a few clarifying questions.

Regards,

Cristina Bollinger
Repairs and Technical Support
Linear Logic
1.888.433.5664
 

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Discussion Starter #11
To the point, it is not the ScanGauge II causing the problem.
It will take some kind of heavenly genius to figure out what's going on with this Ford product.

For a test load, I'm using a 375 watt inverter with a laptop computer plugged in.
The inverter has a fan which produces a whine noise at all times.
This is a good thing, cause when power supply is good, the fan whine is consistent and strong.

This model Ford also has a Power Point outlet - 20 amp fuse on it's own independent circuit. When the inverter is plugged into the Power Point outlet, it is at all times running strong. Fan noise whine is strong and consistent.

I did as Harry suggested, removed first the Scangauge instrument (leaving the power/data cord attached to the obdII)
No problems. Its not the cord.
Next, re-attached the ScanGauge II and plugged in the inverter with laptop.
No problems!!! Almost.
I notice the inverter fan sounds like it's struggling - not a consistent whine.

Okay, so I turn off everything and just for kicks, pull the fuse and reinsert it a few times. There was a very faint spark as the fuse went into the slot - unlike times past when I noticed a rather strong spark.

Everything is good.
Put it all back together and run the ScanGauge, inverter, laptop combination again and something kicks off power to the cig lighter!
Okay, that's enough for me. I think there's a bug in the Ford circuitry.

I'll leave the ScanGauge run off the obdII port and won't use the cig lighter for anything else.
Thank you for contacting the ScanGuage people - 100ma is nothing and should not cause any problems. Harry's suggestion was a good one and helped prove that the ScanGauge II is innocent.
 

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Just a suggestion, but there are several customer access circuits built in to these trucks besides the upfitter switches. Things like inverters are great but I find them a bit cumbersome plugged into the lighter and power point sockets. If you use an inverter regularly, it's a piece of cake to hardware them in and have them be key on devices. You can mould them under the center jumper seat (or in the console if you have one) or in other discreet locations.

And I'm not sure (well, really I just don't remember) if the power point and cig lighter are on the same circuit, but if they are, and you use both be sure to consider the combined amperage of all devices.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Just a suggestion, but there are several customer access circuits built in to these trucks besides the upfitter switches. Things like inverters are great but I find them a bit cumbersome plugged into the lighter and power point sockets. If you use an inverter regularly, it's a piece of cake to hardware them in and have them be key on devices. You can mould them under the center jumper seat (or in the console if you have one) or in other discreet locations.

And I'm not sure (well, really I just don't remember) if the power point and cig lighter are on the same circuit, but if they are, and you use both be sure to consider the combined amperage of all devices.
Good suggestion. But I have another problem that is more concerning and has us looking at the new 14,000 GVWR trucks.
With the camper and gear, the truck is continuously overloaded by 1,100 to 1,300 pounds.

And it's not just for a trip to the lake and back.
We got home yesterday after 4 months on the road. The Mexican roads were the worst - very rough. We also do a lot of washboard dirt roads.
So. . . I really need a heavier frame and axle. Quite the quandary as to what next.
 

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Just realize that the difference between your 350 and a 450 or 550 is not the cross section of the frame, they are all basically the same construction, just varying in length. The real difference is spring rate selection, axle type and gear selection, and wheel and tire selection. Do your research, you'll find the new $60k+ trucks aren't rated for your camper much better than the truck you already have. What are you running across the scales at, and do you have front and rear weights?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
At the scales: 14,100
Rear axle: 9100
Front: 5000

That's without a full tank of fresh water and or full tank of diesel which can add another 200 pounds.

We plan on adding a SuperHitch, four foot stinger and a small trailer with ATV.
A little extra power would be nice.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
My truck's rear axle is made by Dana - I've read that the Dana 80 is used on duallys and that Dana rates that axle at 11,000 pounds.
I'm "assuming" that my truck has the Dana 80 and has a manufacturer rating of 11,000 pounds.
So now my thinking is that maybe I could keep this truck going for a while longer - at least until they get the new truck DEF emissions system bug free.
New duallys have a GVWR of 14,000 pounds. Substantially higher than my present truck.
Remember, I'm "hauling" not towing.
 

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What rear end gear ratio are you running? My buddies 06' TowBoss dually 6.0L is running 4:30's and it hauls heavy loads nicely.

Harry
 
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