Sean, thanks alot I am sure I will have many more questions during this process of swapping. The crack is approximately 5 to 6 inches long. I had looked into trying to get it welded but I had a lot of people tell me it wouldn't hold. The engine I purchased was off of a burnt truck with what I was told only had 19,000 miles. I will have to use everything externally from my engine including the head. Do you have any more suggestions? All and any help is greatly appreciated.
The only really differences I could see you encountering are if the 55 is set up as an ETH instead of the ETC you have in your 99. That really shouldn't be much of any issue, but it would be something to keep in mind as the compression is higher on the ETH and if you're going to be increasing cylinder pressures in anyway, i.e. heavier fueling, you will be more likely to blow out a head gasket. So I would see if you can find out what the donor motor was in. It should say ETH or 245hp output on the data plate if that is still readable or on the truck.
Guys, I finally got everything switched over onto the 55 block but I have encountered a problem with the crank shaft sensor "I think". I ran the codes and I came up with PO336 which indicates crank shaft sensor.
The problem is the tack odometer will come on when truck is first started and idleing and also will work for approximately ten to fifteen seconds then completly stop and the truck will act like has a very bad miss and while driving the truck it has absultely no power. It takes forever even to get to fifty miles per hour. If you gun it, you will have what I call a miss. At idle the truck sounds perfect or just to idle up the motor sounds great. Great oil pressure around 90 pounds or more and all other guages works fine.
I called the local dodge dealer and a couple of parts houses and the said that on their computer the 2000 block (55 block) didn't call for a crank shaft sensor but the block had a same hole for the sensor from the 53 block. During the swap I noticed that the 55 block had a bolt that was there for the bracket to hold the sensor and I took for granted that the old sensor had just melted down. So, I just put the other sensor in. Are there any difference in size of sensors? The reason I ask is that we pulled out the sensor and noticed that the sensor had some scuff marks on it other than what notch was factory. We also tried to put a rubber ring to space it out but this didn't work. Something else I couldn't figure out if the 2000 models didn't require a crank shaft sensor, Why do you have to have the sensor in there even to start the truck and yes we tryed it without the sensor.
My 2000 has a crank shaft sensor located down by the starter. I don't think that there is any difference in size between them. Did you switch your old sensor over to it? and what about the crank itself? There may be some differences between the tone ring and the sensor throwing it off. I'll see if I can find voltage specs on them, you may be able to run a pot, from a 12v keyed ignition source to fool it into thinking it has the right voltage if, you can't get a sensor to work. Are the crank, sensor, and ECM and injection pump all from the same year truck?
Yes, the sensor came from the 1999 truck. The crank is from the 2000 truck but I did take the cam out of both blocks and they were the same, so I used the 2000 cam instead of the 1999. I just thought that if cam, lifters, and everything else where the same then the crank would aslo be the same. I did use the same sensor, ECM, and the injection pump from the 1999 block and everthing bolted up perfect and I made sure everything was timed, according to the manufacting marks on the gears. You ask about the tone ring, I really don't know what your talking about. I am really learning a great deal about these trucks, as I go and still haven't even scratched the surface I know. I still don't know if there are different size sensors.
Thanks Sean, Can you tell if your crank sensor has a metal bracket that bolts to the block or plastic. The reason I ask is that on the block I changed, there were only a bolt in the hole and no bracket or sensor in the block. I was guesing it melted off. My bracket from the 99 was metal. So they would be different sensors.
Anyway, I may have a lead on the VIN# and they may be able to tell me what I need to know.
I finally ran down the VIN# from the 55 block and in fact it is an 2001 and came out of a 3500. I really thought I was in big trouble. After extensive searching, everything in the 01 is the same part # except for the block and the tone ring. The tone ring on the 01 must be located just a little off of what the 99 is. I also thought that the 01 didn't have a crank sensor because I found an 01 at the local grocery store and it just happened to be on of my buddies and I crawed under and his didn't have one but by running the VIN # on the 01 it called for one, must of changed mid year. The difference in the two may be depth or plug configuration. Parts at dealer didn't have pictures to go by but the wires are the same and same ohms calibration. Sensor should be in today will let you know if it solves my problem.
I believe I am going to give up. I can't get anything to work!!! I called Cummins and gave them my VIN#'s and they got the engine #'s and it is true, none of the 01' have crank shaft sensors. In fact the blocks have different part #''s. They say I can't even swap cranks from by 53 block to the 55. So now I have a complete 2001 engine that I can't use in my 1999. Oh, It still runs but not like it should. But, There is still something I can't understand and call me stupid but why will it still run with the sensor in there and not run if you space the sensor away from the block as little of a 16th of an inch an "O" ring, if it does not call for a crankshaft sensor anyway and the place in the block is just covered with a plate on other 01's. It must be in the wiring harness and computer but I don't understand.
I guess I will sell and start over. Does anyone know where I can find another engine that will fit my 99 that is not a 53 block or maybe will do some trading. The motor I have has around 20,000 miles on the block, crank, cam, pistons and all.
A forum community dedicated to Diesel engine owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about performance, builds, ecodiesel, towing capacity, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more!