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Discussion Starter #1
Well, after another sub-stellar towing performance by my truck...I think I am going to have break down and get those 160cc singles installed. Sure...I was pulling in 100* heat with a 35mph side wind...but truck just seemed sluggish. Plus I am having some other issues...so time to solve them by elimination.

Do I need to get all new washers for the injectors? I am a bit stupid on all of this...I admit it. I am also toying with the idea of just hiring the local diesel shop to replace them for me. I know that everybody says to do it my self...but Lord if I screw up my motor has an extra hole in it that didn't used to be there :gaah.

Can somebody point me to step by baby step instructions on how to change injectors...I mean injectors for dummies type instructions? I really would like to get this done before our next camping trip in a couple of weeks.

Unless somebody lives close and is willing to help change injectors, I'll replay with all the ice cold beverage you can drink...and inch thick ribeyes on the grill.
 

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i wish you were closer Dave... I would gladly help you out...
remove everything to get valve covers off... (this is easy part)...
then unhook the injectors, remove the 8mm bolt on the bottom.. you dont have to remove the top one... then pry the injectors out..
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Aaron...what about going in? I'll have to get all the oil/fuel out of the cylinders along with making sure the new injectors are properly seated. I saw that there is a washer kit for new injectors. Do I need to order in 8 of these kits first?
 

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i literally just pulled my stock ad's this afternoon in 100* heat in the driveway, was not bad at all. do a search for injector removal, i saw some videos on here and i had them out in about two hours all eight!!! idk how much a shop would charge you... good luck
 
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when you pry them out make sure you push the retainer plate up towards the engine valley... wont come out without doing this trust me :bang
 
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TwinStacks
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when i put the set in the work truck i put the injectors in and left the glowplugs out, then put the valve covers on, pulled the fuel pump fuse/relay and cranked the engine over.
 
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Pull the back two first on each side...

Wait for about 10 minutes, remove the glow plugs, remove the rest of the retainer bolts, clean something...

Remove the rest of the injectors.

Install new O rings, coppers and lube the piss out of all of them.

Wait for 10 minutes or so for the O rings to relax and while doing this check all the cups for left overs (coppers, debris)...

Install new injectors, TQ to spec, check with a level that they are all fully seated.

install each valve cover with a bolt or two..

Jump the starter seliond a few times... Bump... bump... bump...bump.... Turn it over for a while (5-7 second)

Remove the valve covers, install the glow plugs, UVC and button everything up.

Cycle the key 4 or 5 times until the fuel pressure builds back up in the rails...

Crank for 15-20 seconds... It should start on the 3 or 4th crank.

Once up to temp, run the piss out of it to get the air out of the system. If you baby it, it will take 100 miles or more to the the air out, run the piss out of it, and your good to go in 15 miles.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well...I began this project tonight. Got to the point where I needed a wobble to get the rear most valve cover bolt off. I'll get a wobble tomorrow and continue plodding on.

I see everybody refer to jumping the starter solenoid. How do you do this? Can I instead just crawl under the truck and turn the motor over by hand...or unplug the cps and bump it with a key start?

Do I need to take the AC compressor off to get at everything on the passenger side?
 

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Well...I began this project tonight. Got to the point where I needed a wobble to get the rear most valve cover bolt off. I'll get a wobble tomorrow and continue plodding on.

I see everybody refer to jumping the starter solenoid. How do you do this? Can I instead just crawl under the truck and turn the motor over by hand...or unplug the cps and bump it with a key start?

Do I need to take the AC compressor off to get at everything on the passenger side?
If you have a deep well socket you can get to that bolt without a wobble, or a gear wrench if you have one. Its not perfect, but it gets the job done.

jump the solenoid, its on the passanger side wheel well. large flat nose screwdriver on the bottom post, contact the top post and the starter spins!

Works like a charm!

AC compressor can stay right where its at...
 

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Well...I began this project tonight. Got to the point where I needed a wobble to get the rear most valve cover bolt off. I'll get a wobble tomorrow and continue plodding on.

I see everybody refer to jumping the starter solenoid. How do you do this? Can I instead just crawl under the truck and turn the motor over by hand...or unplug the cps and bump it with a key start?

Do I need to take the AC compressor off to get at everything on the passenger side?

You dont have to actually jump it just dont crank the truck for long... just bump it with the key a few times until it pushes everything out of the cylinders...

Also you dont have to run the piss out of the truck to get the air out of the system... I usually just take them on a ride for 10-15 mins and all the air is out of the system at this point..

No you dont need to remove the compressor..
 

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You dont have to actually jump it just dont crank the truck for long... just bump it with the key a few times until it pushes everything out of the cylinders...

Also you dont have to run the piss out of the truck to get the air out of the system... I usually just take them on a ride for 10-15 mins and all the air is out of the system at this point..

No you dont need to remove the compressor..
The problem with cranking it, is you need to remove the fuel pump fuse as well... The bumping method keeps the electronics out of the equation. Plus you are standing right there and can hear it clear out of each cylinder...

As I said before, if you do the back two cylinders first and wait a few minutes, 99% of the fuel and oil will leak into those...

I can say with 100% certainty that you will not get all the air out in a 10 minute drive, you will have a hard start for several days if you just *****foot it around.
 

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dave, are you sure the 7.3 was sluggish or could it be youve discovered the power of the 6.0 (excursion) ?? ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #14
LOL Don. I have been chasing a gremlin with my truck for sometime now. I have my suspicions, but don't wish to divulge them now. I've got the injectors in hand so am going through the elimation process. But I have a sinking feeling the end result is what I suspect.

So far the only thing that impresses me about the 6L is how easy it builds boost. It seems like its nothing for that motor to build 20+ pounds of boost in a heartbeat...and it seems like I need a 5th wheel camper behind my truck in order to do that.
 

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*^%$#@&am p;am p;am p;am p;am
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hey dave how much do those injectors cost you?

i am toying with the same idea but i would have to import them
 

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the passenger side is quite easy to do just pop off the heater hose mounts tie them up out of the way by the turbo and bada bing, i just put my injectors in last night, after i did the first one it took me no time at all, i think it took me maybe a hour and a half to put them in, just make sure you lube the o-rings real good, i used engine treatment stuff from lucas. i just have to put the oil deflectors back in which is my down fall cause i never labled where which one went :bang
 

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the passenger side is quite easy to do just pop off the heater hose mounts tie them up out of the way by the turbo and bada bing, i just put my injectors in last night, after i did the first one it took me no time at all, i think it took me maybe a hour and a half to put them in, just make sure you lube the o-rings real good, i used engine treatment stuff from lucas. i just have to put the oil deflectors back in which is my down fall cause i never labled where which one went :bang
Doesnt matter... there all the same, just throw them back on.
 

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the castings look like they are different am i wrong on that? idk
 

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Discussion Starter #19
All the injectors are out. OMG...I can't believe what I found. Of the 8 injectors...6 of them had burnt or torn o-rings...the bottom ones. I will post up pictures a little later on.

balz...the oil deflectors are all the same. I looked at them when I pulled them off. Just screw them back on.

It will have to wait until next week before I get the new injectors in and try to get everything all buttoned up. Oh...before I forget. I used a 60cc syringe and a foot of 1/4" OD diameter clear tubing to suck all the fuel/oil out of the cylinders. In hole #7 (rear passenger side) I drew out a whopping 280cc's of fuel/oil. All the other cylinders were darnt near dry. On the passenger side I drew about 120cc's out of the back 2 holes.
 

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the castings look like they are different am i wrong on that? idk
There only different because they are a manufactured piece... Mass produced
 
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