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Discussion Starter #1
ok yal this might sound like a dumb question but i dont know much about cummins i have an 01 wat turbo do i have on my truck
 

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If its a manual trans you have an hx35, if its an auto you have an hy35. The Hx is the one you want to have.
Sean
 

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ok i have the hx i found a hx40 an hx50 and a hx60 would any of those be good to put on my truck for more performance
 

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It really depends on what you're shooting for. None of those turbos are ideal, and the 50 and 60 are too big for single chargers. The 40 would work and we ran a pdr hx40 on an 01 and got it down into the 12's, but there are better chargers out there. If you don't have the fuel for the 40, you will hate life with it. I would say at least a box, a fuel system and 120hp injectors and it should be alright.
Sean
 

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Discussion Starter #5
i no there not the best im jus on a budget i cant aford 1500 for a turbo i can get a hx40 for a few hundred bucks
 
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Just be aware the HX40 uses the same size shaft as the HX35 and they are known to break fairly easy on the 40. Not saying don't use it, just keep in mind to be easy on easy off of it.
 

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I'm curious how much pyro temp are you making?

If your making above 1,200*F then yes a turbo would be the thing to do...

I'm not a knowledgeable person about turbo's but I do understand that more boost pressure the cooler the EGT will stay. But in a trade off of lag and smoke. This depends on how big of a turbo you get...

The other factor above 45-50 PSI you take the risk of blowing the headgasket. So studs might be a good idea soon...
 

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Boost pressure doesn't always keep egt's down. Fuel set up and charger really need to be matched to each other. You can run a lot of boost out of an hx35, but once you pass about 32lbs, the air is getting too compressed in the compressor housing and starts to get hot, and is less effective at burning the fuel you have. I'm not as familiar with the compressor mapping on the hx40, but I would imagine that once you get above the mid 40's you will be pushing hot air with that too. Spool up also really comes down to Ex. housing size, turbine size, the angles on the turbine and compressor wheels and a lot of factors. An hx40 should hold you with decent EGT's to about the 400hp mark, if you're getting up near the 500hp mark, I would expect to see temps of nearly 1800 degrees.

Also like bouncer said, they are known to snap shafts. So just be aware of that and don't bark the turbo hard and you should be fine. Its not a bad charger, just not the best one by any stretch. If you have some decent fuel, it won't be too bad to drive either.
Sean
 

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yeah would be more concerned after you get it on about the amount of boost you push ill be the first one to tell you if you get near that 45-50 psi range you will be taking the head off of it. especially if its cool out when you are running the hell out of it. mine came apart at 47 psi at 38 degrees outside. cold air is hard to compress lol. but as far as the turbo goes there are guys around me that run those and they are a little slow getting spooled up but do work well with the right amount of fuel. before you bolt that thing on with 100+hp injectors realize that you are crossing a line and once you get on that side of the line there are many dominos ahead.
 

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Twin turbos?

I have a stock 01 cummins, I want to put twin turbos on it.What do I have to do for everything to run smooth??
I just want some more TQ an HP:sly: I will be runnin it on the road often.
 

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zackbandy said:
I have a stock 01 cummins, I want to put twin turbos on it.What do I have to do for everything to run smooth??
I just want some more TQ an HP:sly: I will be runnin it on the road often.
Really depends on what you're looking for in the truck. What HP level are you looking to be at, what are you using the truck for etc. Then you need to pair the turbos you choose with the injectors, and other fueling components and do the supporting mods required as well. If your truck is bone stock, right now and you're buying someone's twin turbo kit, I would anticipate spending a minimum of 7,000 for a manual transmission truck and closer to 10,000 on an automatic equipped truck.
You will need at minimum
The twins
studs
at least a thicker HG and possible headwork
Injectors
Fueling box
Exhaust
Gauges
Fuel system
and trans work.

Heres a twins thread for you too.
http://www.thedieselgarage.com/forums/showthread.php?t=32973

Starting to read that reminds me, I need to get my *** back in gear on these things, and start mounting them up.
Sean
 
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Sean gave you a very good idea above. Twins and even most mods for that matter require planning ahead and buying other items before you even buy/install what you are wanting at the moment.

Most people get into trouble by not planning and adding until things break. Then once broke you are often dead in the water with no money to fix the problem because you spent it all on your last mod.
 

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Yeah, building a reliable truck is the hard part. And not pairing mods with each other properly often leads to poor drivability. You can do it cheaper, but you have to do a lot of fab work yourself.
Sean
 

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so I should save up bout $5000,then go from there.. but is all them mods u(sean) gave me really nesasery, if all I want is just to drive it around not pullin to heavy of loads maybe a tractor.. more less just say I got 2 turbos..but still be relieable.
 

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You could do it cheaper if you stayed on the lower power side of things. However You will want to increase the amount of fuel you have. It is harder to get two turbos turning than 1, even if they are small, and so if you didn't add injectors and a fueling box, you wouldn't notice any gain, and would more than likely experience negative effects, such as decreased low end power. If you ran small turbos, like the stock charger and an hx40, or even the h2e like I'm using or an S300, you could run smaller injectors and still be alright. You would still need to stud the head or run a thicker head gasket to compensate for the increased cylinder pressure, and both would be ideal. If you could build the plumbing yourself it would probably save you nearly $2000+ on the twins as well. The expensive part comes down to having a transmission that will handle it. For a manual you need at least a heavy duty clutch and if you have the 5spd you will probably want to upgrade to a 1 3/8" input shaft as well. for an auto, you will need to upgrade the internals, to have an increased clutch count, an upgraded valvebody, better torque converter, and at least a billet input shaft as well. Thats where things get expensive. You will else need gauges as well, to monitor boost pressure and exhaust gas temperature, too much of either of those things can cause engine damage pretty easily and in very short order.

The best way to start is to start slow and by upgrading your drivetrain, and getting your gauges to monitor things. Then from there, I would add a fueling box, a fuel system to keep up with the extra fuel demanded to spool the twins, then studs and or a head gasket, then twins and injectors at the same time.
I've seen some trucks that were built right, and some that weren't. And the ones that aren't are almost work to drive, and can make towing a lot of trouble. Hope this helps provide a bit of insight. Feel free to ask questions, twins are definitely cool, but you start encountering some pretty steep bills and serious trouble if you don't do it right.
Sean
 

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A fueling box taps your injection pump fuel solenoid wire and essentially increases the amount of fuel that your injection pump puts out. Ideally you want a box that also advances the injection timing as well. The Egde comp, and juice both do that, as well as the quadzilla boxes.

As for the injectors, they are pretty easy to do. Should take about an hour tops.
Sean
 

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I just found a link to the injectors.. I could still put like a 150hp chip in it,when I put twin turbos on it?? or is that to much without doing more mods,bigger injecters ect, to it??
 
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