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Junior Member
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Discussion Starter #1
Why when the ignition is turned to run only it sounds like a typewriter is behind my glove box. it makes the noise regardless of whether the hvac is on or not. I am guessing it is one of the vent actuators that i have heard people talking about going out. If so how can i pinpoint it and replace it.

Or is this normal for everyone.
6.4L Lariat
 

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You have dual climate control?
 

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constant light tapping noise? I have dealt with many of these in the last couple of years and I would bet its one of the actuator motors for the HVAC.

A little test you can do is slowly move one setting at a time on your HVAC, (i.e. pass temp, then drivers side temp and so on). Move a temp setting one at a time and see if the noise goes away. If the noise goes away then its probably that actuator.

I have replaced many of these actuators for this concern and they are not always for the temp door(s) but most of the time they are. Seems the passenger temp actuator has a little more popularity for failure

Most actuators can move around 90* of travel, some basically move all the way one way or the other, the temp actuators can stop at any position. Basically what going on with the actuator is they have a position sensor inside the unit (much like a TP sensor) the position sensor gets dirty or develops a bad spot in it, so the motor cycles back and forth over the "bad spot". Its basically searching for the right spot which causes it to "twitch" and make the noise.
 
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Junior Member
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constant light tapping noise? I have dealt with many of these in the last couple of years and I would bet its one of the actuator motors for the HVAC.

A little test you can do is slowly move one setting at a time on your HVAC, (i.e. pass temp, then drivers side temp and so on). Move a temp setting one at a time and see if the noise goes away. If the noise goes away then its probably that actuator.

I have replaced many of these actuators for this concern and they are not always for the temp door(s) but most of the time they are. Seems the passenger temp actuator has a little more popularity for failure

Most actuators can move around 90* of travel, some basically move all the way one way or the other, the temp actuators can stop at any position. Basically what going on with the actuator is they have a position sensor inside the unit (much like a TP sensor) the position sensor gets dirty or develops a bad spot in it, so the motor cycles back and forth over the "bad spot". Its basically searching for the right spot which causes it to "twitch" and make the noise.
Same issue exactly. Does the entire IP need to be removed to access and replace the actuator ?
 

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The sound you guys are hearing might have something to do with the computer. When I load my program into my truck I can hear it as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I was hoping one of you guys had tried to fix it without letting the dealer make a rattle trap out of the dash. I will have to try the switching from one setting to another to see when it happens.
 

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MINE DOES IT TO! my truck is outta warranty am a curious to know what they will charge me for the fix?? any clue ?
Bandage Fix if the noise becomes bothersome :thumbsup:

1. Remove the contents of your glovebox.
2. Flip the glovebox open completely (there are two retainers - one LH and one RH side) that keep it from opening further. Pull these free of contact with the instrument panel, and the entire door will pivot down providing increased access.
3. Listen for the "type-writer" as described. Likely the actuator directly in front of you (on top of the black duct). Find a friend with small hands or prepare to donate some skin to gain access to the actuator.
4. A standard automotive plastic connector (interference fit with a clip) with several wires provides power to the actuator. Remove the connector from the actuator. Noise will stop.
5. Depending on the position the mixing-door, you may get excess "Heat" or excess "Cold" from passenger side vents. Compensate accordingly with your temperature controls.

Of course this is not a fix, but a work-around to removing the entire IP, and risking additional rattles. I prefer to deal with the temperature fluctuation, as opposed to the noise.

Best of luck !
 

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Junior Member
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124 Posts
MINE DOES IT TO! my truck is outta warranty am a curious to know what they will charge me for the fix?? any clue ?
Bandage Fix if the noise becomes bothersome :thumbsup:

1. Remove the contents of your glovebox.
2. Flip the glovebox open completely (there are two retainers - one LH and one RH side) that keep it from opening further. Pull these free of contact with the instrument panel, and the entire door will pivot down providing increased access.
3. Listen for the "type-writer" as described. Likely the actuator directly in front of you (on top of the black duct). Find a friend with small hands or prepare to donate some skin to gain access to the actuator.
4. A standard automotive plastic connector (interference fit with a clip) with several wires provides power to the actuator. Remove the connector from the actuator. Noise will stop.
5. Depending on the position the mixing-door, you may get excess "Heat" or excess "Cold" from passenger side vents. Compensate accordingly with your temperature controls.

Of course this is not a fix, but a work-around to removing the entire IP, and risking additional rattles. I prefer to deal with the temperature fluctuation, as opposed to the noise.

Best of luck !
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I just stopped using AUTO and i have not heard the noise since. How about that for a bandaide :)
 

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I just stopped using AUTO and i have not heard the noise since. How about that for a bandaide :)
sounds like a winner...but turning off "auto" did nothing to impact the sound. The only heater function that has any impact for this noise is the "off", or pulling the supply wire.
 

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The fix is free. Use the Radio Volume knob. Turn clockwise to remove that and all other dash rattles
 

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the fix is free until the doors just quit working all together and the you are stuck with hot or cold thats what mine did. About $300 to fix it. I think when I get another truck it will have manual hvac controls.
 
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