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Ok has anyone here put the upfitter switches in there 04 F250 or earlier? Looking for photos and tips. Also the cheapest place to buy the upfitter kit. Thanks
 

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You would have to replace the lower center part of the dash where the switches go if you want to be able to have a factory install. Also, there are no wires pre-installed for the earlier trucks to run the switches, all of your wiring would have to be custom. You can find the lower panel on ebay with switches for about $250.

Another option would be to get some after market switches and make a panel to cover your current cubby hole in the dash. I really like the switches mentioned in THIS THREAD and thought about mounting them in that location.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I had seen a photo somewhere of a 99-04 truck that the guy put the upfitter in without changing the panel. I was hoping someone here had done one. It would cost alot to change the panel. the one on ebay didn't com with the harness or the relay panel.
 

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Re: upfitter switches

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I typed this up for someone else and so I copied and pasted it. I bought just the switches on ebay for around $70 and spent about $10 on an inline fuse block and 10 gauge wire.

This sounds complicated but trust me, it is not. OK, I mounted mine below the cubby. First, with a dremel I placed a notch on the 4th side to make a lip on that side. Then I measured the "switches box", the width and length BELOW the lip around the top (the switches have a lip that surrounds 3 sides of the box, the 4th side is designed to mount against either a replacement cubby or the brake controller in the newer trucks). I chose my spot to mount the switches and made a template out of tape that matched the dimensions of the box. I cut it in the truck, it would have been easier to take out the panel and do it on the table but I wasn't exactly sure how to remove it. I used a razor knife and taking my time it only took maybe 10 minutes, the plastic is thick. Then I had to adjust the hole a little to get the box to fit- DON'T push it in all the way or you won't be able to hook up the wires.
Next I mounted to fuse box. Open the glove box and push in on the top corners to allow it to swing open all the way- then you can get to the wiring behind the box. I zip tied the fuse box to a horizontal round support under the dash. (ALL of the wires, the ones you hook to power and the ones you need to hook up to your accessories are run together out of the box and will be together above your pedals on the drivers side when you are finished.) Now run the bundle of wires behind the lower panel and accross to the drivers side. Pull the free wire with the small white plug through the hole you cut. The other free wire is your ground and you will see on the drivers side 2 ground screws (once you remove the outer panel at your knees) on the right side. You can attach the ground to on of the screws there.
DON'T give up, I promise the hardest part is cutting the hole, the rest took maybe 10 minutes. Now for power- this is designed to be plugged into the back of newer fuse boxes but you won't have the plug on yours so you need power from somewhere else. I decided to run a wire from the driver's side battery with a fuse inline just in case but there are several wires that are under the dash that can be used if you choose to ( just search on here for them). I ran a 10 gauge wire through one of the wiring grommets in the firewall and attached to a inline fuse I bought at Advanced auto (wire and inline fuse together was about $9). I then cut off the big white plug (it has 6 wires) I wanted my switches to only be lit when the truck was on so I seperated out the blue wire with the red strip and stripped the other five. I twisted these five together and then pushed on some heat shrink tubing past my twists. I stripped the 10 gauge black power wire and twisted it around the other five (DON'T attach to the battery yet). Then solder. Now pull the heat tubing over the solder and shrink it. The other wire, blue with the red strip, I attached to fuse 42 in my truck- "customer Access"- only powered when the key is on. (If you can find it you can also attach this wire to a instrument panel illumination wire- only on when the lights are on).
You will now only have 4 wires not connected to anything, the ones with the black taped ends- these are your now power wires for the 4 switches. Attach to whatever you want on the switch.
 

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Nice write up. Chris
 

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I put them in my 03..... In the factory opening, using a dremel i notched it for the four clips, and slid it in to place. ... There is a spot in the factory fuse box that has the same type plug that the upfitters have. The factory one has two wires to it, one is an open spot in the upfitter harness so take it out of the factory plug and move it to the upfitter harness, the other will have to be spliced with the wire in the same spot on the upfitter harness, then plug it in and you are good to go... photo bucket lost my photos, but i will see if i can get some for you...
 

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Re: upfitter switches

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I typed this up for someone else and so I copied and pasted it. I bought just the switches on ebay for around $70 and spent about $10 on an inline fuse block and 10 gauge wire.

This sounds complicated but trust me, it is not. OK, I mounted mine below the cubby. First, with a dremel I placed a notch on the 4th side to make a lip on that side. Then I measured the "switches box", the width and length BELOW the lip around the top (the switches have a lip that surrounds 3 sides of the box, the 4th side is designed to mount against either a replacement cubby or the brake controller in the newer trucks). I chose my spot to mount the switches and made a template out of tape that matched the dimensions of the box. I cut it in the truck, it would have been easier to take out the panel and do it on the table but I wasn't exactly sure how to remove it. I used a razor knife and taking my time it only took maybe 10 minutes, the plastic is thick. Then I had to adjust the hole a little to get the box to fit- DON'T push it in all the way or you won't be able to hook up the wires.
Next I mounted to fuse box. Open the glove box and push in on the top corners to allow it to swing open all the way- then you can get to the wiring behind the box. I zip tied the fuse box to a horizontal round support under the dash. (ALL of the wires, the ones you hook to power and the ones you need to hook up to your accessories are run together out of the box and will be together above your pedals on the drivers side when you are finished.) Now run the bundle of wires behind the lower panel and accross to the drivers side. Pull the free wire with the small white plug through the hole you cut. The other free wire is your ground and you will see on the drivers side 2 ground screws (once you remove the outer panel at your knees) on the right side. You can attach the ground to on of the screws there.
DON'T give up, I promise the hardest part is cutting the hole, the rest took maybe 10 minutes. Now for power- this is designed to be plugged into the back of newer fuse boxes but you won't have the plug on yours so you need power from somewhere else. I decided to run a wire from the driver's side battery with a fuse inline just in case but there are several wires that are under the dash that can be used if you choose to ( just search on here for them). I ran a 10 gauge wire through one of the wiring grommets in the firewall and attached to a inline fuse I bought at Advanced auto (wire and inline fuse together was about $9). I then cut off the big white plug (it has 6 wires) I wanted my switches to only be lit when the truck was on so I seperated out the blue wire with the red strip and stripped the other five. I twisted these five together and then pushed on some heat shrink tubing past my twists. I stripped the 10 gauge black power wire and twisted it around the other five (DON'T attach to the battery yet). Then solder. Now pull the heat tubing over the solder and shrink it. The other wire, blue with the red strip, I attached to fuse 42 in my truck- "customer Access"- only powered when the key is on. (If you can find it you can also attach this wire to a instrument panel illumination wire- only on when the lights are on).
You will now only have 4 wires not connected to anything, the ones with the black taped ends- these are your now power wires for the 4 switches. Attach to whatever you want on the switch.
Can you give me a better explanation of what needs to be done in the glove box area? I’m probably a little slow....do I need to purchase a fuse box and a inline fuse? And, the white plug I’m not understanding. (I’m posting this without even having started🤓) I have an 04 f250. Thank you
 
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