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What are sparkplugs
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Discussion Starter #1
I'm trying to remove the upper and lower ball joints on my 2002 dodge. I pounded on them for an hour didn't budge. going to try some heat tomorrow. Ball joints are in the axle tube not the knuckle like the older dodges. also the hub bearing is rusted in to the knuckle going to heat that up too.
If anybody has any suggestions that would be great.
 

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I just got done going through this. IT SUCKS!!! Ended up buying two new hub bearings. Take a cold chisel and put it between the bearing and the knuckle at the bolt hole areas and hit it hard on all 4 corners. at the same time have two 1/2" x 1" bolts and nuts between the u-joint yoke and the end of the axle tube to help push the bearing out. and heat the crap out of it and lots of PB blaster or WD. you will have to do some repairing of the backing plate from the chisel but not a big deal.
As far as the ball joints, use a good ball joint tool and heat the area around them. while the force from the tool is on them, hit the area around the joint to help it POP out.
hope this helps
 

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I just did them on my truck. To get the wheel bearings out, use a socket and extension against the axle yoke to push on the bolts as you turn the steering wheel. This is best done with a helper. Use plenty of penetrating fluid and let it soak. I like a brand called Free-All. For the ball joints I got a press from the auto parts store. In my area Advance Auto Parts and Autozone both have tools you get borrow with a deposit. Again use plenty of penetrating fluid. Being from MI you may have to heat them when you have pressure on them.

I've attached a procedure someone else posted. Not sure of the author but it greatly helped me. If the author reads this!!! Thanks for a great writeup.
 

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I did all my ball joints last summer, and well everything got replaced, bearings/hub, dust shield, and ball joints. My bearings were stuck, so we built one of those hammers, can't remember what it was called, but it bolts to the hub and has a weight that slides, and ya slam it against the end. But we build one out of a flat piece of metal, a piece of rod, and a harmonic balancer off of a John Deere 4455. We broke the balancer and still didn't have the bearings moved, so ended up soaking them and then beating on them with a hammer and chisel, they finally came off. But we did go to the local autoparts store and borrowed one of the ball joint tools to press them in and out with, which this also didn't fit my ball joints correctly, so we had to rig it. All in all it was a time of learning. I also had to put a seal in the front axle, that was a load of fun. My advice is heat, some kinda of penetrating fluid, and a good hammer and chisel. Best of luck
 
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What are sparkplugs
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Discussion Starter #6
thanks guys really help full I got the right side ball joints and new ones in on the right side, I cut the old ones out inorder to remove knuckle(thought it might be easier to remove hub with it off the truck. then I went and bought a ball joint press from performamce cost me $140. I'll try removing the HUB with the steering socket idea. The other knuckle I think I'll just take to performance machine shop and have them mess with that one its already off. I have too replace the whole front end ball joints upper/lower both sides, hub bearing both sides and tierod/drag link everything went at the same time. Just did track bar 6 months ago.
 

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My recomendation for the steering socket trick, is use some pieces you do not care about. I chewed up the back of one socket because I used wobble extensions. This gives you some flexability to get a solid spot for applying pressure. Try to work your way from bolt to bolt. Eventually it popped loose. This really works better with two people.
I took out the upper ball joint first. None of the adapters in the kit seemed to be what I needed. So I cut a 1" long piece of pipe to slide up on the ball joint shaft. This along with the kit pieces removed the upper joint.
I could not get the c clamp in the position shown in the pictures I attached. So I went down thru the upper ball join hole. While the alignment was not perfect, it was better than the way shown in the pics.
The other thing I felt that really helped was a 3/4" breaker bar(More mass & less flex than 1/2"). I bought a cheap one from our local Harbor Freight ($20). It worked flawlessly and is still in one piece.
On the passenger side I put the ball joint under pressure (thought the threads would strip on the clamp). Then I hit the area around the ball jointwith a hammer and it popped. This is where you may need the hammer and heat.
I let the penetrating fluid work overnight. I think that helped also.
I put anti-seize on everything when I put it back together. The alignment shop said they do the same thing with anti-seize.
Also my Moog joint instructions said to put the grease fitting facing inward. Which didn't make much sense to me, so I offset mine so I could get a grease gun past the knuckle and onto the fitting.
 

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not to hyjack this thread but my passenger side needs new ball joints, and was wondering if they make the greaseable ones yet?
 

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I just did them on my truck. To get the wheel bearings out, use a socket and extension against the axle yoke to push on the bolts as you turn the steering wheel. This is best done with a helper. Use plenty of penetrating fluid and let it soak. I like a brand called Free-All. For the ball joints I got a press from the auto parts store. In my area Advance Auto Parts and Autozone both have tools you get borrow with a deposit. Again use plenty of penetrating fluid. Being from MI you may have to heat them when you have pressure on them.

I've attached a procedure someone else posted. Not sure of the author but it greatly helped me. If the author reads this!!! Thanks for a great writeup.
I got to admit that is a killer write up and nice to see in a PDF form... I give it a 5 star rating myself! :thumbsup
 

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What are sparkplugs
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147 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
yes great thread dave2001 that helped alot!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Yes they do make the greasable ball joints, I bought mine at performance (MOOG) for $80 a piece(came with LIFETIME WARRANTY) I'm almost done with the whole project need 2 new bolts for hub bearing on left side and then I can finish, right side is done. then I'll do an alignment. The old ball joints were stuck so bad that even after getting to axle red hot I still bent the ball joint press. at least its almost done. I put anti sieze on ball joints and hub so hopefully when they wear out again they come out easy?!?!!!!
 

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Thanks guys , but the real credit goes to the unknown individual who authored it. I only put it in pdf format.
 
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