[TheBac]

The title says it all. A lot of people have gone rounds and rounds trying to find the end-all solution to the LLY O/H problem. I tried to keep up on everything you LLY guys were cooking up. Since I own an LB7, though, I'm not up to date.

What works? Why?

 

[Kat]

I'm glad I don't have to worry about this since Blue doesn't over heat :Thumbup: Even when I let McRat drive him LOL

 

[dg19802]

The title says it all. A lot of people have gone rounds and rounds trying to find the end-all solution to the LLY O/H problem. I tried to keep up on everything you LLY guys were cooking up. Since I own an LB7, though, I'm not up to date.

What works? why?

Apparently the problem is the cooling system of the LLY just doesn't have the capacity to handle the heat it creates, so GM added more radiator and a bigger fan for 2006 and the Rad Mod V2 does the same thing but adds even more than the 2006, thats why it works.


Right now there looks to be two options, either get a Rad Mod V2 and be done with it, or get a new truck. Glad I don't tow enough to have this problem! But if I did, then at least I know where to get a real fix!

 

[Rcannon]

dg19802
Would like to welcome you to TDG and thank you for a well thought out informative post. Don't own a Chevy, doesn't mean I can't read about them though.

 

[TheBac]

Extra radiator capacity makes sense. Cooling the engine itself through the oil makes sense.

What happened with all the shroud designs?

 

[rickdlance]

The extra radiator capacity does cool the oil. Its a win/win situation. As the temp in the radiator drops and recirculates, the first place it goes is the factory oil cooler!

The bottom line is that if you drop coolant temps you will cool the oil and all the other things the oil never touches, but the coolant does. I think thats why the fix on the 06 was basically a bigger radiator.

 

[Rcannon]

Welcome Topdog!
Thats for adding to the thread.

 

[killerbee]

Yes additional engine cooling is definately effective. It can be effected in various ways. The existing cooling stack is highly underutilized, the aerodynamic design of the vehicle prevents adequate air movement under speed. Under high load, heat rejection is at a deficit to heat creation, and hence ECT rise.

 

[killerbee]

The 06 overheats as well BTW. It has a larger towing envelope, but at speeds under 45 mph, on a 9% grade, WOT yada yada, the cooling system is still unable to meet load.

Readers might like THIS oil cooling study.

 

[AZMAX]

Without dragging too much of other websites into this, I am aware of some folks working on different turbo vanes for the VVT to try to reduce backpressure.

Also, the 2006 engines run a lower compression ratio which may also help.

After a lot of comparing, I ordered up the V2. I really think KB's stuff is probably pretty good, however there just wasn't enough data to convince me that I would cure my OH problems.

 

[stevebos]

I agree with the concept that the root cause of the over heat concern isn't the engine cooling system (consider the LB7); the root cause is the LLY's increased thermal load on the engine cooling system.

I chose to purchase KB's engine oil cooler, the TD-EOC. My decidedly non-technical, over-simplistic :idea: reasoning is as follows:

1. The Duramax engine relies on engine oil to support engine cooling.

From GM's old www.duramaxdiesel.com website:

"Pistons have to absorb the full shock of thermal loads and high combustion pressures (both of which are much stronger in diesel engines than those found in the typical gasoline engine), the Duramax engine has a piston cooling system that sprays oil into a channel inside the piston."

2. The OEM engine oil cooler transfers heat from the oil to the coolant:

"...the water flow from the gear driven water pump is channelled through the engine oil cooler before going through the engine..."

The radiator then transfers heat from the coolant to atmosphere.

3. One way of decreasing the total thermal load on the engine cooling system is by reducing the OEM oil cooler's thermal load on the engine cooling system. This can be accomplished by direct cooling of the oil. Addition of an air cooled heat exchanger allows transfer of heat from the oil directly to the atmosphere; minimizing the OEM engine oil cooler's transfer of heat from the oil to the coolant.

Less thermal load on the OEM engine cooling system, less pulling over to the side of the road, opening the hood and...

 

[AZMAX]

Both products are designed to do the same thing, remove BTU's. Pick your preference on the way its done.

EOC - reduces heat load on cooling system by removing heat from the oil pre factory EOC and possibly reduces coolant temps additionally if oil is cooler than coolant.

V2 - reduces coolant temps upstream of factory EOC which results in lower oil and coolant temps.

Both of these products reduce fluid temps ie oil, coolant and trans.

 

[idahofox]

There are several TD-EOCs installed and on the Road, one with over Thirty Five thousand miles accumulated since installation.

As TD-EOC owners observe the Fairness and Positive Moderation on this Site, more will post. This is a New phenomenon for them and will require some adjustment.

Please continue with the Tight Rein.

Thank You.

 

[rickdlance]

Hey Fox. I would like to state publicly that None of the EOC users have proven results posted yet. The people using them have publicly admitted to not being overheaters, except 1, and he only tested on one day.
The only mistake KB made was not putting one on a known overheater and curing it.
I have no doubt it will help, but as of yet the testing published is not adequate.

TX has 30+ members running it and posting positive if not spectacular results.

 

[killerbee]

There has been plenty of testing. You are assuming that you would know about it. You do not, and i don't know how you could, or how you feel compelled to suggest that you would know anything about the TD-EOC, as you say. No details have been provided to you. As the campaign manager for other things, you do not have an interest in seeing what I do succeed, and your motivation is leaking through right here on this thread.

I am completely at a a loss as to why you would follow me here, Rick. I assume since you had me kicked off the "other" forum (another established fact), that we had our day, and that is over. As you can see I have moved beyond that. Yet you are right on my heels. Wow. I am humbled

The TD-EOC cures known overheating. I don't really care if you do not like that. I have established it as fact. If you would like to prove me wrong, spend the money and find out.

 

[idahofox]

Hi Rick, welcome to the Garage.

This style of " *** for Tat ", IMO, leads to making statements intended to Damage a person, I refuse to engage.
- - - - - - - - - -
Any Duramax, LB7, LLY, LBZ can and has overheated, given the requisite circumstances. The LLY appears to be the most prone to overheat, the LB7 the least; the jury is still out on the LBZ.
- - - - - - - - - -
IMO, product evaluation from Real World users has more weight than the laboratory style tests required for development of the product.

How will it work for Me, day to day.

" My air conditioner works Better ".
" My engine runs cooler ".
" My transmission runs cooler ".
" I no longer Puke coolant ".

Not very scientific, but more people can identify with those quotes than with " Delta Rad T IN " and " Stack Heat Rejection at Stack Delta P = .25 iw ".
- - - - - - - - - -
" How much cooler does your engine run, 10°, 21°, 26.4° " ?

" Well on Ol’ Straight Up Hill, when I would crest the top, my temperature gauge would be one tick above 210°, now when I crest the top my temperature gauge is Two ticks below 210° ". " Yes my engine runs cooler ".

To me, this has Value.
- - - - - - - - - -
That's my take.

FWIW.

 

[killerbee]

A prior victim of hot oil dilution

" I haven't noticed any fuel dilution in quite a while now. The only "non scientific" evidence I have now in regards to thinning oil, is pressure! Seems to me after "cooking" for hours on end (high pyro temps) in my case, The oil pressure never seems to recover. After an "event" the highest pressure (even after a warm up the next day) is always 15 to 20 psi lower than norm, and tends to get lower as the miles add up. I may be full of it to some, but I know what I see, and it has happened this way on several "like" occasions. I spend the $ on oil change rather than take a chance. Apparently *** doesn't. I climbed Siskiyou pass today without a problem! That and the NE. episode were coolant pukeing events for over heaters! I smell VICTORY!"

 

[killerbee]

Transmission cooling

"No question I have seen a 10-15 degree drop in tranny
temps since EOC install. I saw no difference when I
switched tranny cooler back the first time (back to
stock). So in my case (not towing heavy) the EOC was
more effective. Might be different if really working
the tranny by towing heavy, I don't know....."

 

[killerbee]

No Fan

"Hi Michael,

It took more than an hour

I did the complete JJ flush including running the engine while filling the coolant tank with the radiator inlet plugged and water flowing out the upper hose. I drilled the front bypass stat with a 1/16" hole like you recommended - I took a picture of my hole and can send it to you ....

To get the thermostat housing off I had to remove several bolts holding the upper radiator hose pipe to the engine so I could tilt the casing forward - that took some time as I had to remove the Edge connections and some other minor things .... I guess I don't know the trick yet, but it worked.

I took both stats out and boiled them - they opened right about where I expected them to and the one that was cooler opened first. Both were opened by the time the water was boiling. My temp gauge was inaccurate and read about 200 degrees when the water boiled, so I really don't truct it.

I refilled with Zerex Gold G05. I then filled the rest of the way with distilled water. So far it only took a little more than a gallon of distilled water - I will need to burp the system a few times - I'll carry the other 1.5 gallons of water with me.

I did put 3 gallons of zerex in the system because it can get very cold here in Maryland and if I go to NY it can go -15 or so easily.

If only I could get the other 1.5 gallons in the system. Good thing is the flush water is well water run through an acid neutralizer. Bad thing is the water softner - it uses potassium, but hasn't regenerated in about a week, so I should be OK if there was any well water left in the truck. I did let it all drain out.

I did a little towing today - went and picked up my camper from storage.

It was hot here in Maryland - 90 degrees and very humid.

My ECT varied from 185 to 195 to 203 and back to 195 - stats definitely opening and closing. Never saw that on hot days before the EOC.

Tranny stayed at 175 or a notch below on the highway - after some start and stop traffic and some small hills.

AC blew ICE cold - thank goodness I really needed the cool after working outside today....

I'll keep you up to date on what I observe.

So far towing I am quite pleased with the TD-EOC. Towed for a little under an hour today - camper weight I would estimate to be closer to 10Klbs because I did not have any water or clothes or other belongings inside.

Did I mention NO Fan whatsoever ....

Towing was done today after the flush and fill with Zerex Gold, and after the thermostat modification."

 

[idahofox]

The above testimonial comes from Mark Haney, a person that publicly admits that he never overheatd BEFORE he installed his oil cooler, it is of little surprise that he is not overheating AFTER it was installed.

Again, the proof is just not there. Sorry.

Mark never claimed that he overheated, nor did anyone else.

He has documented reduced fluid temperatures, that's a fact.