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THE MASTER OF DISASTER
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Discussion Starter #1
im putting a new wheel bearing assembly on my superduty and the cost difference between the 4 wheel abs and the 2 wheel abs is a hundred dollars the 4 wheel abs being cheaper, my question is there a difference between the 4 wheel and the 2 wheel models besides the sensor, meaning can i just buy the 4 wheel abs bearing and chop off the wire and will it work the same to save a hundred bucks.
 

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You can use the ABS style on NON ABS, I do all the time.

It cost more the manufacture the ABS style then the NON ABS, but the ABS hub sell 100 to 1 over the NON ABS
 
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THE MASTER OF DISASTER
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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
alright awesome now my second question is, the (bearing?) behind the knuckle and the u joint on the axle is really sloppy are those a really tough job to replace? i wanna do all the stuff when i have the bearing off. and i think thats where the grinding im hearing is actually coming from.
 

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alright the (bearing?) behind the knuckle and the u joint on the axle is really sloppy are those a really tough job to replace? i wanna do all the stuff when i have the bearing off. and i think thats where the grinding im hearing is actually coming from.
there is no bearing on the inside of the axle U-joint, that is and inner axle shaft seal. You will need pull the axle shaft and there with be a lot of crap in the axle tube. I took a five foot piece of 3/8" round stock and welded a toe of a 000 horse shoe to it (half moon, i should post a pic) and used it to pull all the rust and mud out of the axle shaft.

there is a big ($40) seal on the out side of the axle U-joint that sits in the spindle. This is the outer axle (vacuum seal) this seal takes a special tool ($150) to install and is a real ***** with out the seal driver.

there is an axle shaft bearing in you hub/bearing assembly the new one should have this, If you think the axle shaft bearing it's like $9 @ NAPA.

I put like 100k miles a year on my 4x4 F550 and I have to replace all the axle shaft seals and bearing like once a year. They suck. I just did it to my truck a few weeks ago and I can't find the ford receipt to give you the part #s

buy or borrow the out axle shaft seal installer tool it is well worth it.

Grease the axle shaft bearing
 
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THE MASTER OF DISASTER
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265 Posts
Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
i have a metal lathe can i just make a tool that is the same size as the seal to beat it in there? or is there something really really special about that tool? and im still confused is the one that needs the special tool on the long side or the short side of the axle the one i need is on the long side that goes into the diff. i believe its called the knuckle seal? its the one that holds the axle in the in place.
 

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yeah, I would make it.

It puts equal pressure on the inner and out seal, when you drive the seal it going against the axle shaft and the spindle, and the seal driver lines it up nice.

At the end the seal driver(SD) (the part against the seal) the last 3/8" (or so) is the same O.D. as the seal than the SD steps out to fit the spindle.

look at one, go bug an over paid Ford teck
 
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THE MASTER OF DISASTER
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265 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
good idea! i gotta go to the stealership tomorrow for studs for the bearing and get bent over on those, i might as well get some useful information out of those :bubba down there. im sure it will all fall together when i get out to the driveway tomorrow morning the hub wont give up and just pull out so i used a liberal amount of pb blaster on everything so it might give up tomorrow if not im going to have to make it give up. :nunu:
 

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i reuse the old studs, heat+vise grips= they come out.

also a big slide hammer helps, I don't even pull rotor and adapter off (all mine are duelys) if you got singles it's less weight,

If you buy new studs use an impact hammer on the old studs the help push it out, thats the easiest way

Also place a drain pan under your power steering pump it will piss out fluid as you turn the wheel back and fourth.

good luck
 

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THE MASTER OF DISASTER
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Discussion Starter #9
the studs im talking about are the four on the back side of the hub assembly im not sure if you are talking about the same thing or not..and why would the pump piss out fluid?
 

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yeah the four studs on the back

you need to turn the wheel back and forth a few times to reach the bolts and the hammer on the studs.

as for fluid when you turn the wheel by the wheels that touch the ground (not the steering wheel) it will piss fluid if the truck is not running, no big deal.

It dose this because the valves in the steering box are actuated by the input shaft (from steering wheel) not the out put shaft (Pittman arm), It causes fluid to back up in the reservoir, you'll see. Unless your going to turn the wheel from inside the truck.
 
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THE MASTER OF DISASTER
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265 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
gottcha im going to take the axle to ford with me and maybe they might be nice and i stress the word maybe and press that seal on there for me cause they feel sorry for me. i cant thank you enough for the information it has been so informative and saved me so much money and time.
 

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I don't think they can press it to the axle alone, because it is pressed to the spindle also

make sure you get all of the old seal out of the spindle.
 

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THE MASTER OF DISASTER
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Discussion Starter #13
thanks again for the help i just got her all buttoned back up and took it for a ride and it is 20 thousand times better, i made that tool if i ever get a new camera ill have to take a picture of it and post it on here.
 

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What were your the original symptoms that you experienced on the truck that are (20,000 times) better?

I'm experiencing some steering wheel vibration. I had the wheels all balanced, so that's not the issue. It seems to be at it's worst at around 40 miles per hour, then smoothes out a little at about 55 mph. This morning the vibration was minimal, but noticed a faint rumble at only ~1400 RPM, at ~40 MPH, when I let off the pedal. I'm concerned that it could be a number of serious issues, including the bearings.

I look foward to seeing the photo of the tool.

Thanks,

Bob
 

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THE MASTER OF DISASTER
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265 Posts
Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
it was doing something what you are saying but i wasnt getting as much steering vibration as whole truck grinding thumping and other general annoying noises. if its a bearing jack the truck up and grab the tire top and bottom and push and pull alternatively with both hands, if it has a lot of play half inch or so depends on who you ask but thats what i go with, then its probably bad and needs replaced, mine had over an inch of play in it, the axle seals were more of a just cause i was in there kind of thing.
 

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My truck was doing the same thing. Get up around 40 mph to 55 and it would vibrate something awful. Got to checking everything with a heat gun, and the left front wheel running hot 260 degrees and hotter. the right side stayed around 125 or so. thought it was the bearing and pulled the wheel found the brake pads worn out, and wheel would not turn.The caliper was sticking, just put pads on about 5000 miles ago. the right side was still like new. Changed caliper and rotors both sides, and it took care of the problem. Runs good now. Hope this helps.
 

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I'm now suspecting the front brakes are causing the vibration. I like your idea of measuring the temperature at the wheels. I'm a local fireman, and we have infrared cameras in our fire trucks. I'll drive over the station tomorrow, and after some hard braking, see how hot they actually are.

The tires do not not spin freely. They are rubbing when I spin them by hand, but are not locked up. How much rubbing is acceptable?

I'm not sure if I did this right... To check the wheel bearings, I jacked up the truck at the end of the axle, close to the wheel. Placed a giant crowbar under the tire and lifted repeatedly. There was no sensation of anything loose.

To check the tie rod ends, I wiggled the tire side-to-side. It seemed tight, but there was a faint clunk at the steering box near the fire wall. Also wiggled the tire in-and-out/top-to-bottom and it was good.

Checked the U joints on the drive shaft. They are solid. There was some movement in the transfer case when I rotated the drive shaft back and forth. Is that normal?

I guess the shocks are another possibility...

Thanks,

Bob
2002 F250, Crew, 7.3L, ~112,000 miles
 

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Junior Member
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I'm now suspecting the front brakes are causing the vibration. I like your idea of measuring the temperature at the wheels. I'm a local fireman, and we have infrared cameras in our fire trucks. I'll drive over the station tomorrow, and after some hard braking, see how hot they actually are.

The tires do not not spin freely. They are rubbing when I spin them by hand, but are not locked up. How much rubbing is acceptable?

I'm not sure if I did this right... To check the wheel bearings, I jacked up the truck at the end of the axle, close to the wheel. Placed a giant crowbar under the tire and lifted repeatedly. There was no sensation of anything loose.

To check the tie rod ends, I wiggled the tire side-to-side. It seemed tight, but there was a faint clunk at the steering box near the fire wall. Also wiggled the tire in-and-out/top-to-bottom and it was good.

Checked the U joints on the drive shaft. They are solid. There was some movement in the transfer case when I rotated the drive shaft back and forth. Is that normal?

I guess the shocks are another possibility...

Thanks,

Bob
2002 F250, Crew, 7.3L, ~112,000 miles
these trucks are known for caliper slide pin freezing up, especially when you only run them on the weekend, or if the sit for a long time.
 

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Jay, you were right. The lower pin on both sides was frozen solid in the bracket. I hope the over temp didn't damage the caliper. They're not leaking, and the rubber boot is still good, so I assume the calipers are reusable. I'm putting it all back together tonight.

Bob
 
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