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TDG Mafia Member # 37
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Discussion Starter #1
I am having a problem with my truck not running, and i believe it is the IPR, as I have my regulated fuel return set at 68 psi and now I am only showing 60 psi while cranking and it will drop to about 40 psi before it kicks back in and raises the pressure again. This all started just after filling up my truck at my normal station and I have since found out they just had to pump 40 gallons of water out of their tank. I did not get a receipt so I am screwed on that, but we pulled the codes and they are 1209,1211,1212, 1247, and 1248. The first 3 codes are ICP related so am I right in assuming it is my IPR and if so where can I get one fast and where is it so I can replace it? I can get the truck to run for about 3-5 seconds then it shuts down like it is running out of fuel. Is it possible that if there is water in the fuel that it has frozen the IPR open? I am in Michigan and it has been below 0* here for about 5 days. I should add that we ran the glow plug test and they checked out fine as did the injector test, we did tonight with a Snap On scanner. We could not get it running to do any test while running though. Gene, :mafia
 

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IPR is screwed into the back driver's side of the HPOP. The IPR has nothing to do with fuel pressure, it controls the oil pressure that drives the injectors. It does sound like you may have an IPR/ICP problem, but the problem with the fuel system is not related.
 

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TDG Mafia Member # 37
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Discussion Starter #3
Ok so now I got to ask should I replace both or is there a way to isolate either the ICP or the IPR? Also I can not help but wonder if possibly the water tainted fuel is some how the culprit, as the problem arose after driving about 20 miles after filling up. The truck stalled one time and I got it running again then it almost stalled again, but i caught it in time and threw it into neutral and gunned it til it cleared up then put it back in drive and it ran alittle rough then straightened out and ran fine til the next morning when I went to start it to go to work then I could not get it to stay running for more than 3-5 seconds, but now it will not start at all. Any suggestions? Gene :mafia
 

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Do you have fuel pressure now? The fact that it started after fueling up makes me wonder also. Can you get it inside somewhere to thaw out and see if it will start then.

As for the IPR/ICP, you can unhook the ICP sensor and see if it helps. The PCM will run on default tables with the sensor unhooked. The ICP sensor is at the front of the driver's side head next to the lift hook. You should monitor ICP and IPR duty cycle with the scanner while cranking it also.
 

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TDG Mafia Member # 37
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Discussion Starter #5
I have fuel pressure when I turn the key on and while cranking, but it starts to drop off when just sitting. If I leave the ignition on it will drop to 40 psi then pressurize back up to 60 again. I will try disconnecting the ICP sensor and see what happens. Thanks, Gene.
 

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If you are using a snap on scanner then u can read the icp and ipr. icp pressure should be above 500 psi when cranking. it has to have 500 psi to run. also watch the ipr duty cycle. As the ipr % goes up more oil is let through. but sounds more like a fuel problem than oil problem. most likely u will have to drain the fuel filter housing then remove the small plugs at the end of each head to drain the fuel/water out of the rails.
 

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Ipr

I have a 96 and it was located right behind the HPOP in the valley but it may be different with the SD bodystyle.
 

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I agree with RoscoeStroker. Drain the fuel bowl and heads and change the fuel filter. Then see if you can get it started. If not check ICP and IPR reading with the scanner while cranking. If ICP is way low try starting with the ICP sensor unhooked.
 

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TDG Mafia Member # 37
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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks, guys I 'll give it a try tonight when I get home from work. Will one bottle of fuel treatment and gas line antifreeze work or should I dump a few bottles in the tank? Thanks again, Gene :mafia.
 

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TDG Mafia Member # 37
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Discussion Starter #10
Well I unhooked the ICP and it fired and ran for about 10 seconds, so I drained the fuel bowl, but not the fuel rails yet, put in a new filter and poured a bottle of dry gas in the fuel bowl and tried it again and no go not even firing, but batteries were now getting low so I put on the charger on one battery last night for 12 hours, and put it on the other battery this morning. Will try when I get home again. Do I really need to drain the fuel rails? I don't like dumping all this fuel to the ground. Any other suggestions? Thanks, Gene. :mafia
 

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TDG Mafia Member # 37
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Should I just buy about 5-6 diesel fuel cans and clamp a section of rubber hose to the drain line and just pump all the fuel from the tank into the cans and start with fresh fuel? Would this be necessary or should the 3 bottles of gas line antifreeze and water remover be enough? How much fuel is in the fuel rails? Is there a way to get the fuel out of the fuel rails without letting it pour on the ground. Sorry for all the questions but I had a snowmobile trip planned with the family and if I don't get this fixed before Monday we will not be going. Gene:mafia
 

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TDG Mafia Member # 37
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Discussion Starter #12
How long will it take to empty the fuel rails of the fuel that's in them by running it? I got it started tonight using ether (I know not recommended) but it fired right up and ran smooth as could be for about 15 seconds. So my plan is to empty the tank and put fresh fuel in and hit it with ether and try to run the water tainted fuel out of the rails that way. Any other suggestions? Gene :mafia
 

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If youre going to run it on ether you need to unhook power from the glow plugs. The glowplugs running while using ether is the biggest problem.

You have a regulated return system so cycle your key a bunch of times letting the fuel pump run. That will get some of the fuel circulated back into the tank.
 

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TDG Mafia Member # 37
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Discussion Starter #14
You know I didn't even think of that, not to make excuses but i am really sick right now with upper respiratory infection and not feeling good at all,and any time outside right now is almost unbearable as it starts a coughing fit, so thanks a million for the idea. The water in fuel light comes on but does not stay on, which I think it should, or am I wrong. Again thanks, Gene. :mafia
 

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I haven't looked for awhile but it seems like the water in fuel sensor is mounted fairly high in the filter bowl so it would take quite a bit of water to turn the light on, my light has never come on. I've personally never seen any water come out of the filter bowl, and I've looked, so I'm not sure how effective the stock filter is at seperating water out.
 

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TDG Mafia Member # 37
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Discussion Starter #16
I too am wondering how effective it is, I cannot get my truck to run on this fuel so I would think the water in fuel light should stay on. It comes on for about 2 seconds then goes out. If there is enough water mixed with the fuel to not let it run I think the light should stay on. Does anyone know how it should work? This is the first time I've ever had bad fuel so I have no experience to fall back on. You would also think the 3 bottles of gas line drier that I dumped into the tank and the filter housing would do something as it has been in there now for 3 days. Does gas line drier even work in diesel fuel? As I said no experience with bad fuel before so, I'm not sure. Gene :mafia
 

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You got the batteries fully charged again correct? You should leave the charger hooked up when you are trying to start it also.

Fuel Pressure? You said when you turn the key on pressure jumps up to 60 and then falls to 40 and then jumps back up. Does it do this while the pump is running? When the pump is running the pressure should come up and stay up and then pressure should fall to zero when the pump stops.

Did you ever hook the scanner back up and monitor ICP and IPR duty cycle? If not I think you should and for sure rule out an HPO problem, monitor the RPMs while you are cranking it also. I just want to make sure that what you have is a fuel problem and not something that coincidentally went bad just about the time you filled up. If you've got it thawed out now and moving fuel I think it should run. Even if it runs badly because of water in the fuel, I think it should run. There wasn't any noticeable water when you drained the filter bowl was there?
 

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TDG Mafia Member # 37
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Discussion Starter #18
Yes I got the batteries fully charged and I left it hooked up while I was cranking. Yesterday my fuel pressure was back up to 68 psi like normal. It stays up there while cranking it just leaks down when sitting and the pump isn't running. No I haven't hooked the scanner back up as i did not really want to bother the guy again until I had taken care of the water situation. I did not notice any water at all. I forgot to mention that yesterday it would not start even with the ICP disconnected until I hit it with ether. Thanks, Gene.
 

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TDG Mafia Member # 37
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Discussion Starter #19
We are going to hook the scanner back up today and check IPR duty cycle and ICP pressure, if they are out of normal spec is it indeed time for a new HPOP or do I have more testing to do after that? With the price of a new HPOP I want to make sure that is indeed the problem. Any other ideas or suggestions guys? Gene :mafia
 

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TDG Mafia Member # 37
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Discussion Starter #20
Just had another thought, could it be the IDM, or would the buzz test we did totally eliminate that as a possibility? Gene
 
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