[pichu2]

.

As far as how I build mine, thats a secret I'll keep to myself. I build them to sell and spent time figuring out how to build them a number of years ago. In fact I think I was the first person to figure out how to build the 3 wire 40 pin fuel wire. It was a couple of years before anybody else offered one for sale after I did. I know of a shop that tried to take one off a customers truck to copy it, because they thought it couldn't be done.

hey mrs haney ,are you the same person catfreak?, i saw this tip a long time ago in diesel talk ,
catfreak

Posts: 15
Joined: Dec 2007


Friday December 28, 2007 23:34



ok im probly going to make some people mad but everyone knows most "Cat Techs" only know what cat teaches them everyone has heard the same crap if you turn that up youll burn it up but that burnin up is the driver ive had 700 horse 3406b models that my buddies at cat said wont last but the last one went 1.3 mil got 6mile to the gal.But like i said my cat buddies these are my friends at local cat dealer. no disrespect. As far as 3406e and c15 you can have injector trim codes changed if you have a buddy at adealership pete,kw etc have them print your current codes incase you want to go back,then delete each code and put 5232 in its place. This is a default code for industrial app.Now your cat guy and probly some on here will say "it wont work" but it will mine has been that way for 500k miles and it pulls great have many friends that have done this to they are happy.THIS CODE IS NO GOOD FOR ACCERT ENGINE. You can also put a 5k resistor in green wire on boost sensor this will give you better response but does make some smoke when changing gears. I had my cb guy hook mine through a switch i put in cab so i can turn it off when i go to Ca. Some of you have seen this for sale as "power harness" for like $50 to $100 dollars you can do it for about 6 bucks.There is also a trick for fuel temp sensor havent messed with 2 wire like on C15 but if you have 3 wire cut orange wire leave it like that. Strip bare spot on black wire cut white wire solder end of white wire toward sensor to black wire then solder 150ohm resistor to other white wire and solder other end of resistor to the black and white you solderd first.This is good for about 40 horse and about .5 mpg on mine anyway. I hope instructions were clear enough if not post and we'll do something else you can call me and i'll talk you through it or something. Good luck

 

[Mr. Haney]

Dag gone.........if I didn't know better I'd swear I wrote your exacts words pichu2. If you figured it out before early 06........you may have beat me. You may have been the first on the west coast, but I know I was the first on the east coast and I spent a considerable amount of time figuring it out and went to great lengths protecting what I was doing. I also had a customer that took his truck into a Hot Rod CAT shop in PA that wanted to take it off the truck to see how it was built, fortunitly for me the customer stopped them. But it made them realize it could be done after they'd given up trying to build one for awhile

I'm not catfreak and don't think I've heard or seen that name before. I don't build mine this way either. Also a 5K on the boost wire is waaaaaaaaaaaaaaay too much in my opinion, it just dumps soot in the oil at this level.....I think a 1.3K is too much, but I'm all about keeping the motor safe for many miles

.

As far as how I build mine, thats a secret I'll keep to myself. I build them to sell and spent time figuring out how to build them a number of years ago. In fact I think I was the first person to figure out how to build the 3 wire 40 pin fuel wire. It was a couple of years before anybody else offered one for sale after I did. I know of a shop that tried to take one off a customers truck to copy it, because they thought it couldn't be done.

hey mrs haney ,are you the same person catfreak?, i saw this tip a long time ago in diesel talk ,
catfreak

Posts: 15
Joined: Dec 2007


Friday December 28, 2007 23:34



ok im probly going to make some people mad but everyone knows most "Cat Techs" only know what cat teaches them everyone has heard the same crap if you turn that up youll burn it up but that burnin up is the driver ive had 700 horse 3406b models that my buddies at cat said wont last but the last one went 1.3 mil got 6mile to the gal.But like i said my cat buddies these are my friends at local cat dealer. no disrespect. As far as 3406e and c15 you can have injector trim codes changed if you have a buddy at adealership pete,kw etc have them print your current codes incase you want to go back,then delete each code and put 5232 in its place. This is a default code for industrial app.Now your cat guy and probly some on here will say "it wont work" but it will mine has been that way for 500k miles and it pulls great have many friends that have done this to they are happy.THIS CODE IS NO GOOD FOR ACCERT ENGINE. You can also put a 5k resistor in green wire on boost sensor this will give you better response but does make some smoke when changing gears. I had my cb guy hook mine through a switch i put in cab so i can turn it off when i go to Ca. Some of you have seen this for sale as "power harness" for like $50 to $100 dollars you can do it for about 6 bucks.There is also a trick for fuel temp sensor havent messed with 2 wire like on C15 but if you have 3 wire cut orange wire leave it like that. Strip bare spot on black wire cut white wire solder end of white wire toward sensor to black wire then solder 150ohm resistor to other white wire and solder other end of resistor to the black and white you solderd first.This is good for about 40 horse and about .5 mpg on mine anyway. I hope instructions were clear enough if not post and we'll do something else you can call me and i'll talk you through it or something. Good luck

 

[pichu2]

:bangno,be cool ,no no no dont be mad, i remember when this tip came out ,all the kids started talking about 5232 and 6999 but i had no idea on what they were talking about, my obsesion was the B,s and i broke 4 engines + 2 customers engines .the thing that help me, was injectors that sold it to me used it was bruce he was in a old and small advertisement :bang,but its my second time that i got confused with other people, probably the thing i like are Truck Show's and met 1000's of people i have photos with people you cant imagine,celebrity and in this industry but i apologize i will never cross my self in one of your post :shrugs

 

[Mr. Haney]

pichu2

Sir you misunderstood my comment and reply to your post.

I never was mad...........I never was upset. I actually thought it was funny

I also wanted to know roughly when you figured out how to build the 3 wire fuel temp wire. We could call it a tie on who was the first..........we could call it......... I did first on the east side and you were first on the west side. I really was curious about when, because of not many other people thought outside of Caterpillars box until a few years ago.

Sorry for the confusion : )

:bangno,be cool ,no no no dont be mad, i remember when this tip came out ,all the kids started talking about 5232 and 6999 but i had no idea on what they were talking about, my obsesion was the B,s and i broke 4 engines + 2 customers engines .the thing that help me, was injectors that sold it to me used it was bruce he was in a old and small advertisement :bang,but its my second time that i got confused with other people, probably the thing i like are Truck Show's and met 1000's of people i have photos with people you cant imagine,celebrity and in this industry but i apologize i will never cross my self in one of your post :shrugs

 

[j-m]

OK, just a question for the gurus. On my Nexiq there is a fuel chart for fuel denisty or viscosity that can be incrersed or decreased. would this do the same thing as fooling the ecm with the temp senor?

 

[nsane4]

i have boost harness on my cat 3406e 2ws motor and my soot level has went up is maybe the reason for it?

 

[SledMan]

i have boost harness on my cat 3406e 2ws motor and my soot level has went up is maybe the reason for it?

:roflol::roflol::bang:bangLOLLOL

More smoke equals more soot.

 

[Lmackattack]

yep smoke is unburt fuel. it cakes to the pipes and thats where your soot is coming from...

 

[legend10]

how do you make the boost wire mod? I have the fuel temp already

 

[jwieler415]

I would like to know as well.. or if someone could tell me where to buy the fuel and boost mods that would do as well. I understand some people have worked hard on this and spent a lot of time figuring out so I have no problem paying.

 

[AaronF]

Would the fuel temp wire mod even be feasible with a wastgated turbo?

 

[josh G]

Yes no problem

 

[turbo8781]

I know,, i have read many times that the fuel temp mod has been written about many times,, however,, i could not find a drop dead way that workrd or did not have a problem.. So.

Here is what i did, using a Prolink 9000 in the data mode i read the fuel temp as it was ,, un modified,, 42deg..

Long story short, here is what i did.
Run to Radio Shack and buy a 5 pac of 150 ohm resistors... Go to the truck and Skin back the oarnge and white wire,,, leave the black wire alone,,, take 3 of the newly purchased 150 ohm resistors out of the packet and hook them together in a Series,, (3 in a row) solder them,, now take one end and wrap it into the oarnge wire,, and the other end on the white wire.. Solder,, wrap it up = Done..

Here is what you have accomplished,, the ECM will see a fuel temp of 160deg with no trouble codes,, this is reading the actual fuel temp readings on the Pro Link !! The changes ar every consistant and i have experimented with the 100 ohm and 150 ohm resistors. Note* if you just unplug the sensor the ECM will see 86deg.

If this has been done before ,, my apologys for wasting your time . The only post i could find was one where *dont quote me on this* cut the one wire and hook the other 2 together and then a resistor,, did not work at all !!
This i figured up.

Best to ya all !!

I have a bunch of resistors but i don't know what the resistance is for the different ones i have. You don't remember what the color code for the 150 ohm is do you ?. Cant wait to see how much this helps the power

 

[dbennett48]

Brown, Green and Black. The color codes are here: http://www.leonaudio.com.au/res_code.htm

Dave

 

[turbo8781]

Brown, Green and Black. The color codes are here: http://www.leonaudio.com.au/res_code.htm

Dave

Thanks, I did the mod and took it for a test drive empty and couldn't tell any difference but i'm sure it would be more noticeable with a load on it. If it doesn't work that way then I will try Pichu and Mr. Haney's way. I will deffinatly be sending the ECM to pdi for a good tune this season

 

[sailboatjim]

for the best power gain the ECM reading fuel temperature should be above 159*F constantly, but not high enough to cause a high fuel temperature fault code. I build mine differently than the above description, but if it works this way also then it's all good. The temperature of the fuel in the tank needs to be as cool as possible at all times for the best results.

I was reading this thread and because I went to school in electronics many years ago I still remember some of it so I have a question or statement.

Mr. Haney says he builds his fuel temps wires different. I think I would have too or at least I would have suspected that they were built different.

I would have suspected that the circuit would have been a voltage divider circuit hence the need for 2 resistors. I'm just saying it surprised me the way the OP posted this mod especially since it was a 3 wire device.

I would have suspected that the power 5-12 volts or whatever should be at one end of the resistor string and the ground should be at the other end of the resistor string and the output wire would be in the middle of the resistors.
Google Voltage divider and then look at images tab and you will see exactly what I'm talking about.
Anyone know for sure what resistance should be or what level the voltage should be in the middle of the divider? I'm thinking about playing with this on a 3406e 5EK Cat.

You could actually wire say a 1k 3 terminal pot up exactly the same way and find the sweet spot.....unhook it with out disturbing it and then measure the resistance to find out exactly what fixed resistor you needed.
This may have been answered. I didn't read any further than this post.