do yourself a favor, replace rod and main bearings while you have it apart. I ALWAYS replace rod and main bolts on every engine I rebuild. Head bolts should be replaced too.

 

Thanks, I will replace all of it while I have it apart. We have a friend who runs a shop coming by tomorrow to take a look at it and get our parts ordered up for us.

Nick

 

The head came back from the machine shop for $1300. New valves, new injector cups, etc. and they cleaned up the rods for me.

I changed out the main bearings yesterday and hope to get all of the rest sealed up today so I can keep the dirt out. I couldn't get the Thrust bearing out. There isn't much crankshaft play, and the rest of the bearings looked ok.

Is it common to not be able to get that one out. I was thinking I might wait until I need a clutch and swap it out then.

Nick

 

Looks like it was had straight water in it with all that rust. I would flush it once you get it back together and add quality antifreeze coolant and the purple stuff to stop the electrolisys from building up.

 

Is the rear main seal wear sleeve stopping the thrust bearing from coming down? I've had to knock them back a wee bit on a handful of DT's that I've rebuilt. Just do youself a favor and take care of them all now, so you dont have to pull the pan again to do one bearing.

 

Thanks for all the help, the driver kept adding water after he lost the pressurized reservoir cap. It got hot he said :bang

Wound up in addition to the inframe kit replacing the oil cooler, oil pump, water pump, and head rebuild.

Got it back together and running yesterday, no leaks etc. Going to put some road miles on it today to break it in.

Nick